I did a double crossover in N scale, there is a lot of track in a small space, getting the 1:1 soldering iron in there is tricky. Regular turnouts are no problem.
Hi Jason, Yep, that photo was taken a few months ago and the switch blanks are still sitting there without rail. In the meantime I've replaced the floor in my house and am putting in copper plumbing now to replace the old galvanized pipes. My model railroading has been reduced to playing around building freight cars and buying a few interesting items. Maybe this spring I'll be able to get something running. Actually once one learns to handlay switches it doesn't matter if it's curved or straight, it's all done the same way( no jigs needed!! :>) ) The only important note on a curved switch is to design it with a straight frog. The overall curve can be tweaked a bit coming into and out of the frog to allow a few scale feet of straight track so the wheels run thru just as if they were on a straight away. Look at a prototype switch someday and you'll see what I mean. also note that prototype switches have hinged points!!...dave
You're sort of talking to deaf ears here. As far as I'm concerened, a three point track gauge or an NMRA gage are both jigs used for handlaying track. You don't need either of them, but they make it a lot easier to produce a good turnout, just like the fast tracks setup. I also use track drawings I generate on my computer for complex trackwork. Also a jig. If you not using any sort of assistance to make your turnouts and just doing it by eye, I think you're missing out on some good tools that can speed up the work and make it more consistant. Jason
I prefer solid switch points due to more reliable electrical connectivity. The prototype doesn't have that issue. I'm happy for you Dave if you can get consistent results hand laying the way you do. I just find that the Fast Tracks system gives *ME* consistent results every time. I built my second turnout last night which took approx 50mins....it turned out perfectly. I find that this system gives me more time to do other things on the layout. They are initially expensive but in the end it's my money not yours!
I have a #10 and a #4.5 and they both work flawlessly. The frogs are amazing. Not having much experience with hand laid turnouts or track and most of my experience with commercial units there is a very noticeable difference in how smooth a truck goes over the frog and for that matter through the turnout. I don't think I could do it without the fixtures. Phil, or for that matter anyone else with Fast Tracks Jigs that want to trade or need different number turnout maybe some of us with the different jigs could come to some sort of exchange agreement between us so if we need a couple of a different number turnouts we do not need to buy a complete different fixture. I do have plans at some point of getting the #8 crossover. I am just thinking out loud. Good Luck Alan
For those making curved turnouts, you don't have to have straight frogs, you can curve the frogs, just takes more talent. When the train or locomotive runs through it nice and smooth without the little jig when it hits a straight frog, you'll understand why the effort is justified. Rob
True, though railroads are tending to move away from hinging the switch and using continuous switch designs, particularly in longer/high speed mainline turnouts. I think you may find hinged switches used mostly in older or yard trackage nowadays.
Hi Gary, Yes, progress happens. They don't have any of those new switches here on the branch line, most of this track was built by SP 3/4 of a century ago. I don't think continuous point rails soldered to the throw bar will be a problem in N scale like it is in the larger scales where the rigid connection causes the points to take a weird reverse curved shape when they are thrown. N is so small that one would have to really get close to see any error in alignment. I'll give it a try one of these days if the atlas switches prove troublesome. Right now I've got Minestrone to make and a Warriors game this evening .....dave
Hi Pete, I've never had any flyer but the flanges look pretty big for code 100. Here's some code 100 S scale track with normal wheels...dave
First off , phil,, great job!! I did not realize a man showing pictures and talking about something he is very proud of would cause such an uproar. I have a FT jig also,, #6. I got the jig to get a little familiar with handlaying. I will be trying some from scratch in the future. Here is a pic of a FT turnout next to a Atlas. You can see my brown I used is a little off. So the point I am making,, is ,,,, everyone is having fun thier own way,,, no way is wrong or right. Just have fun!!! Adios Wyatt
They do look great, but it's so expensive. Isn't it like $100 per jig? I suppose it's ok if you're using only one size turnout, but what if you want to use a variety?
I think then you're into a NMRA 3-point gauge, and a bit of handlaying, or buying from the variety that is available. I think we all agreed a few pages ago that the jigs are not cost-efficient if you are going to build only a few of each size. That doesn't mean modelers won't buy them for just a few switches. And it doesn't mean that a swap with other modelers isn't feasible--it's just not established yet. The need for a variety of switches depends on the size of your layout, or any complicated trackwork you decide to build. My layout is large enough that I could design around standard No. 7s. In fact, in most cases I could locate switches according to where a piece of flextrack ended, rather than cutting off a few inches of track to fit the plan. Or, conversely, cutting off a few inches of track if that allowed me to use a straight switch instead of a curved switch. I sure hope UP_Phil isn't upset that this has turned into a discussion that, while heated up by hot buttons, has covered useful ground for folks considering these jigs.
I have built over 80 #8 turnouts so far. I standardized on #8s for the layout. My previous layout had turnouts in code 40 and 55 built without jigs, but things go so much quicker and easier with them. Still have over 100 to build. I would have liked to hand laid the entire layout, but I barely have time to hand lay the turnouts. The more you build, the cheaper they get.
Hi Rick, What is the cost per turnout for fastrack materials or can you use regular ties with their jigs? I plan to use #10 switches so I'm curious what the difference in cost would be between atlas code 55 #10's and building #10 's with jigs. Building would only be a last resort for me, I've built too many in other scales to want to handlay so if the atlas switches work then I'll go with them, they seem to look decent considering the small size. I need to put together a small test shelf to see for myself if they perform or not.....dave
Hi, On my #8 Fast Tracks the turnouts or almost as long as the Atlas #10's. The radius is different but the lengths are almost the same. For me the cost works out to be about $7 per turnout as I have purchased the tie sticks, rail, & PC boards in bulk to save money.
The cost goes down some more if you use individual ties, rather than the tie sticks. Though the labor goes up a lot. I have found that for me it takes as long to lay out the ties as it does to build the turnout!
You mean you don't cut your own ties?:tb-biggrin: A long time ago, when I was heavily into woodworking and thus had a lot of scrap wood, I'd cut a bunch of ties with a 4-inch table saw. Even with a thin blade, I made more sawdust than ties. Absolutely mindless work, although those little saws are far more dangerous, in my opinion, than the big boys. I could still get a lot of ties out of something like a 1 x 2 x 12 inches