I am nearly ready to begin building a larger "L" shaped layout. I plan to use 2" insulation foam (pink/blue) for the base. This will rest on some simple 2x2 and/or 1x4 structure for support. I have a couple of questions first though... 1. Is it possible and/or advisable to use 1/4" pink styrofoam as the road bed rather than cork or the black WS foam? It seems to me it would be a simple matter of laying the 1/4" sheet on top of the 2" sheet, draw the plan in place, then cut the 1/4" to width around the layout. The big disadvantage is that you lose the beveled edge unless there is a decent way to cut it that way. Am I overestimating my ability to cut precise lines? Thoughts? 2. I have plans to have a mainline running around the rear perimeter on a very slight grade (1.2% - 1.5%). Could I cut the 2" base and push it upwards and somehow support it in place to create these grades? Just an idea, looking for advice on if this is possible and if so, how. 3. How do you address the inevitable "kink" where the elevation begins so that it is as smooth a transition as possible? I am thinking that no matter what material you use to create the elevation, there will be a thickness issue at the spot where the grade begins and ends. Maybe this isn't a big issue and I'm just missing something? Any other advice on using the foam is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Exciting times for you Augy!! I've heard of guys on this forum do just what you describe when it comes to benchwork and guess it works. I'm using pink foam on my layout also but built my benches out of 1/2 plywood cut into 5" wide strips. I used 2x2s for the legs. I increased their rigidity by laying a 1/2 plywood top to all the benches. This made my benchs light weight but strong enough for me to stand on them (I'm a slim 200lbs ugh!!). After that I laid down 1" or 2" pink foam depending on what kind of topography I needed. In some areas there is no foam at all (ie yard areas) When it comes to easements to grades I just used spackle to build up a grade easement for about 4"-6" before the grade starts. I used Woodlans Scenics premade grade sections as I found that to be the easiest and most sturdy opttion. As far as using pink foam for roadbed I can't comment. I just used the black foam premade stuff.
I don't know how flexible the 2" stuff is, but I did my grades this way with my layout using 3/4" foam. Basically drew a cookie cutter pattern, cut the strips that would be grades or elevated sections, and gradually flexed the grade parts up from the main sheet. I supported them every few inches with pieces cut from the same foam. I tried to make all the elevation changes where the foam was continuous (I tried not to start a new piece of foam at the bottom or top of the grade) and the bends create a gradual vertical curve that works okay. 2' might be too stiff for that. Regards Ed .
I know of modelers who have used rolls of cork (for pin-boards) in same way you are thinking about foam with good results. I don't see why this wouldn't work. (I have a roll of the laminate floor underlay I've been eying for years!.) As for the beveled shoulders, I think I read in MR that one modeler was leaving them square and allowing the ballast to form the grade naturally.
Thanks for the replies. Artic Train: I like the idea of cutting plywood down to strips. We live in a newer development and their are always houses under construction, so there is generaly a constant supply of scrap lumber. It's all under 8" of snow right now but that's a different problem The pictures help a ton as well. Ed M: Good point on the thickness. I may just set a 3/4" on top of a 2". I looked at your contruction photos and can see exactly what you were saying. Looks great and I can't believe how much you fit into a door layout without it looking crowded. Nice. mdenny: Thanks for the response. I think I may end up using cork anyway as the more I thought about it, the more I think it wouldn't be worth the effort considering that cork roadbed is pretty cheap.
it's easy to cut nice lines if you use a very sharp blade.. or rough cut them and finish it off with some 100 grit sandpaper. You could cut relief slots underneath to help the foam ease into the grade.. where you want the grade to be, just cut slots underneath, kind of like this(except on the underside.. and probably closer together: I ended up making my own risers out of 2" foam.. that's an option too.. I just cut the grade into a long wedge looking strip, then cut alternating slots so I could curve it.. look at this pic and you can see how I just sanded the transition to my grade.. if it's gradual enough, you could just fill the kink with calk, or spackle.. to help ease the transition.. You'll always have that spot where you transition from level to grade. the key is to make it as minimal as possible, obviously Foam is great stuff.. I've even seen guys glue up the layers then created the roadbed and grades using a rasp and various cutting/sanding tools... Do what works best for you.. and there ya go!
Diezmon: Thanks, I just went through your pictures. I'm very impressed with the DIY risers. They look like a fair amount of work to make though I really like the layout and the "valley" has tons of scenic potential. Very nice. I'm getting lots of great ideas and it's making me want to go back to the drawing board on my layout...
Is there a minimum thickness of styrofoam to be used for the base? I wsa thinking of using 2" for the sub-base with a 3/4" layer on top of that to use for creating the necessary grades.
2" foam on a wood frame is fine for trains but will not support heavy weight.¤ I know you will not be planning on standing on the layout but tools and other stuff could punch through.¤ I recommend at least using 1/4" plywood as a base.¤ This will give plenty of strength for little weight gain.¤ It will also give you something on the bottom that you can easily mount the various hardware that you may find you need.¤ (wire harnesses, switch machines, ect.)¤ I also recommend after you are done laying foam you put a 1/8" masonite fascade to protect the foam from bump and nicks.
Thanks for the information. I finished the L-girder framework today and it's ready for the base. I'll have to run to Home Depot tonight when I can get my wife's van...it's hard to fit 4x8 sheets of anything in a VW Golf or Mustang Convertible!...I had enough trouble hauling 12' long 1x4's in the Golf. I took the back roads
Much of my layout base is mounted at the grade desired--from 0.5 to 2.5 percent grade. My layout is, in essence, one long climb around the walls. It takes a little bit of figuring, and angle cuts, but is doable and not too brain-busting. A laser level certainly helped, especially since the garage floor was slanted.
I learned the hard way - leaned over to do some work on my layout and crashed right through my 1" insulation top. A local modular club here had some members that used the same construction that I have - 1" x 2" pine frame with the insulation sheet top. They swore that the foam insulation expanded and contracted with the changes of season, and have since sworn an oath to never use insulation foam again. I wasn't sure that the foam actually did this, but now that I've observed some strange twisting and flexing on my layout I think they are right. Some guys claim that to prevent the expansion and contraction that they seal the foam with paint; I guess I'm not sure that will help - anyone have any comments about that??? Forgot to add that I'm now regretting not having a plywood base to mount swtch machines to...
I'm thinking on my layout, "when I get started". My plan is to use 1X4 frame, with 3/4"X1-1/2" for braces. Then sheet it with 1/4" Ply board. Then add 2" foam where needed.
Augie- A few things that I learned the hard way. Foamboard will not bend. Use a plywood base as suggested above. To completely avoid a kink, make sure that you have a section of flextrack on the section where the elevation begins and give yourself at least 8" on each side of the "kink" point with the flex track. Before you laydown the flextrack, solder it to the next piece of track on either side of it. No kinks, no separations. Use cork for a roadbed. You will still have to sand it and sand the bevel, but is a lot easier to work with. Also, the surface of the cork can be sanded thinner to take care of any mistakes in your elevation construction.
Are they sure it wasn't the wooden frame that was expanding or contracting giving the illusion of the foam expanding/contracting?
Thanks for the advice. I have the frame built and am working on a layout design. I'll plan to use plywood for the base and then foam on top of that. That foam is pricey...so in my typical cheap manner, I'm going to keep an eye out for damaged peices that are marked down
