Hi, All I have only room enough for a 40" by 64" layout, I'm interested in a freight yard layout with Small to Medium sized Locomotives and cars. I would like a few switches for two loops and a few sidings. Is this possible with a 40" by 64" layout? Does anyone have any plans they can share for such a layout? I have one problem with RTS, I can figure out how to make the grid that size, it shows a 4' by 8' layout and I don't see or understand how to rescale it to size. When I place the tracks on it, it shows the tracks out of scale. How do you resizs the scale of the grid and the tracks to fit in the grid? Ron
Hate to be grim, but there isn't much to do in that space, your looking at 18" radius's with the 40" width and with the length your only going to be able to get a loop and a couple of spurs in there. Something similair to the atlas starter kit that has the oval loop and 2 switches that form a passing loop is gonna be about it. I'd say go N scale or try to find some more space, even only 2' wide but longer would be alot better. I've built a 2' wide section of layout that goes down one side of our garage, and at the end of the garage I did a 18" radius return loop that drops off of the back of the layout and goes under the yard and returns out the front, kinda makes it a one ended bone shape I guess.
To layout your track plan, draw it on whatever scale the software wants such as a 4' x 8', then only draw the track on 40" x 64" of it in one corner. When you finish draw a line 12" long (along one side), then divide it in half (6"), divide one half of that (3"), again (1-1/2") again (3/4") and you have made a 'scale' ruler, see? Now print it out, and use the 'ruler' to find the measurements. It will work close enough to fit track to. Draw the 12" grid on the track plan drawing, and also draw the same grid full size on the layout top. I have sometimes taped wrapping paper on the table top, drawn the track plan full size, then tacked the track in place, then pulled the paper out from under the track. The track nails will rip the paper OK so it can all be removed. Finish laying the track and fit up the turnouts, so you are ready to drill holes for wiring. For a return loop at the ends, you may be able to add a 2' x 4' piece hinged to the layout, that is held up horizontally with one or two of those 'knee-joint' braces you get at the hardware store for lamp tables etc. Lay half the loop of track on the layout, and continue it out on the hinged piece so it can return back onto the layout again. Loose wires can carry the current, when the new piece is hinged down out of the way. Just be careful to not bump it when hanging down. I did this for a small yard once too. Another guy made one on either side of a doorway to get inside his layout that was a 'donut' to get away from a 'duck-under'.
I am going to mirror the grimness in the first response you received. The space you describe would barely be sufficient for what we call a switching puzzle or "time-saver" layout in HO scale (wide enough, but the length is not exactly generous). I think you should forget the loop, or else move down to N-scale and see what you can do. If you are really and truly stuck for space, and cannot beg, borrow, or steal another foot in length and about 8" in width, you are not going to get a loop into a sensible plan that will entertain you for more than a couple of weeks or so. If you want something worth your time and materials, something that will provide you with some fun and some challenges and variety from day to day, you will have to consign the space to one type of layout, and that generally means simple switching in and around team and industrial tracks, perhaps with two or three stub tracks in a central simple ladder yard. Again, it will be that much easier in N-scale. Once you decide to shoehorn tight curves into a very small space, as you describe yours to be, in HO scale, you severely limit the usable lifetime of the layout. The reason is that we all want something more eventually, and that often means a strong lust for a larger, heavier, meaner-looking locomotive that will derail constantly on tight curves. It is easy to say that you will be content with a restricted range of rolling stock and locomotives at present, but if you are like me and most other modellers I know, you will get a strong hankering for more "development", and if that step is outside the possibilities afforded to you by your earlier self-imposed restrictions, you now have a headache and the task of begging for more room. My advice is not to start at a dead run. But taking severely restrictive steps will have consequences earlier than later, whereas being a bit bolder and farsighted may mean that you can enjoy "success" and have fun for many months before you have to re-think and build anew. Once again, if what you have to play with is it, then go N or stick to switching puzzles. Don't forget to plan it out so that you have room for trees, streets, buildings, and so on to make it look like a realistic setting. All tracks is just that. Good luck to you.
By some standards, particularly here in the UK that is a quite generous size even for HO. Have a look at the Micro Layouts web page:- http://www.carendt.us/ Very well worth looking over for ideas. Carl Arendt and his contributors are brilliant. I've seen, built and operated some very usable layouts for both US and UK prototypes where 64" would be considered a lot of length Let us know what you think
Don't listen to them. I bet they all model modern diesels. LOL You will be limited to smaller locos. It might be worth looking at small wheel base steam engines. I wonder if a Life Like heritage 060 or 080 would be good for this setup? While you are at it, consider looking at On30. Bachmann makes some really nice little engines. Their porter and Shay would be really cool on a layout this size. A few years ago I was at a train show and someone had a ho scale layout built on a door panel. He may even have been using 15" radius curves. With smaller locos and cars, you might be able to go with smaller switches like Peco makes. Don't forget to make your layout go verticle. You could get some nice little gorges and ravines and cliffs on a layout this size. Having said all those positive comments, I reread your post. I think your expectations may be a little high for this size space. You can do it, but you will have to rethink what you want to accomplish with it. Your dimensions are very close to 4x6. If you can go with a 4x6 sized layout you'll be able to do more. Lou built this one from an Atlas plan (Atlasrr.com) it is 4x6.
Hi, there Hi, traingeekboy Thanks for your input. The layout I was going to build is for an early industrial rail yard setting, nothing taken from real life, just my own fancy. I am going to model Erie & Erie Lackawanna (Early Scheme) with a few loco's that came into the yard during the late 1940's to late 1950's in that time frame. Like the following, New York Central Penn Central, Pennsylvania RR, and a few others. All where the following, and I can find some avilable in HO: Diesel Locomotives Erie HH660> 1933 - 1940 Erie S-1> 1946 - 1950 Erie S-2 > 1946 - 1949 Erie S-4> 1951 - 1952 Erie RS-2> 1949 Erie RS-3> 1950 - 1953 Erie DRS4-4-1500> 1949 Erie DRS4-4-1600> 1950 Erie DRS6-6-1500> 1950 Erie AS-16> 1951 - 1952 Erie DS-4-4-660> 1946 -1949 Erie DS-4-4-750> 1949 Erie DS-4-4-1000> 1946 -1949 Erie S-12> 1951 - 1952 Erie SW1> 1940 - 1948 Erie NW-2> 1939 - 1949 Erie SW7> 1950 Erie SW9> 1951 - 1953 Erie 26> 1948 GE 44 Ton Switcher Erie GP-7> 1950 - 1953 Erie GP-9> 1956 Erie Lima>> Erie L1000>>> Erie LH1200>>>> 1949 - 1950 Steam Locomotives Erie B Class 0-6-0 Switchers B5 or B6 1910 - 1912 Erie C Class 0-8-0 Switchers C1, 1918 C2, 1905-06 C3, 1914 - 1930 or C4 1914-16 Erie K Class 4-6-2 Pacific K-4a, 1923 K-4b, 1929 K-5a, 1923 Erie N Class 2-8-2 Mikado N-3, 1923 Erie S Class 2-8-4 Bershire S-1, 1927 S-2, 1927 S-3, 1928 S-4, 1929 N & S class maybe too big to run on this track though "You will be limited to smaller locos. It might be worth looking at small wheel base steam engines. I wonder if a Life Like heritage 060 or 080 would be good for this setup? While you are at it, consider looking at On30. Bachmann makes some really nice little engines. Their porter and Shay would be really cool on a layout this size." There are a few companies that make small Steam & Diesel Locomotives, I will have no problems getting them and or the stock cars. "A few years ago I was at a train show and someone had a ho scale layout built on a door panel. He may even have been using 15" radius curves." That is what the plans I downloaded call for, I just didn't know if it was advisable to go ahead and build it without asking around first to get an opinion. I did not want to spend all that money and build something that would not work well with the loco's or rolling stock I was planning to use or buy. "With smaller locos and cars, you might be able to go with smaller switches like Peco makes." I'll have to look into that. Small switches! "Your dimensions are very close to 4x6. If you can go with a 4x6 sized layout you'll be able to do more." I'll end up doing that, 48" is only 8" more than 40", but 6' is my limit in lenght. "Lou built this one from an Atlas plan (Atlasrr.com) it is 4x6. " Now that a nice layout, a double loop with three sidings. Thanks I'll get started, asap. Ron
Hi, there Hi, traingeekboy Thanks for your input. The layout I was going to build is for an early industrial rail yard setting, nothing taken from real life, just my own fancy. I am going to model Erie & Erie Lackawanna (Early Scheme) with a few loco's that came into the yard during the late 1940's to late 1950's in that time frame. Like the following, New York Central Penn Central, Pennsylvania RR, and a few others. All where the following, and I can find some avilable in HO: Diesel Locomotives Erie HH660> 1933 - 1940 Erie S-1> 1946 - 1950 Erie S-2 > 1946 - 1949 Erie S-4> 1951 - 1952 Erie RS-2> 1949 Erie RS-3> 1950 - 1953 Erie DRS4-4-1500> 1949 Erie DRS4-4-1600> 1950 Erie DRS6-6-1500> 1950 Erie AS-16> 1951 - 1952 Erie DS-4-4-660> 1946 -1949 Erie DS-4-4-750> 1949 Erie DS-4-4-1000> 1946 -1949 Erie S-12> 1951 - 1952 Erie SW1> 1940 - 1948 Erie NW-2> 1939 - 1949 Erie SW7> 1950 Erie SW9> 1951 - 1953 Erie 26> 1948 GE 44 Ton Switcher Erie GP-7> 1950 - 1953 Erie GP-9> 1956 Erie Lima>> Erie L1000>>> Erie LH1200>>>> 1949 - 1950 Steam Locomotives Erie B Class 0-6-0 Switchers B5 or B6 1910 - 1912 Erie C Class 0-8-0 Switchers C1, 1918 C2, 1905-06 C3, 1914 - 1930 or C4 1914-16 Erie K Class 4-6-2 Pacific K-4a, 1923 K-4b, 1929 K-5a, 1923 Erie N Class 2-8-2 Mikado N-3, 1923 Erie S Class 2-8-4 Bershire S-1, 1927 S-2, 1927 S-3, 1928 S-4, 1929 N & S class maybe too big to run on this track though "You will be limited to smaller locos. It might be worth looking at small wheel base steam engines. I wonder if a Life Like heritage 060 or 080 would be good for this setup? While you are at it, consider looking at On30. Bachmann makes some really nice little engines. Their porter and Shay would be really cool on a layout this size." There are a few companies that make small Steam & Diesel Locomotives, I will have no problems getting them and or the stock cars. "A few years ago I was at a train show and someone had a ho scale layout built on a door panel. He may even have been using 15" radius curves." That is what the plans I downloaded call for, I just didn't know if it was advisable to go ahead and build it without asking around first to get an opinion. I did not want to spend all that money and build something that would not work well with the loco's or rolling stock I was planning to use or buy. "With smaller locos and cars, you might be able to go with smaller switches like Peco makes." I'll have to look into that. Small switches! "Your dimensions are very close to 4x6. If you can go with a 4x6 sized layout you'll be able to do more." I'll end up doing that, 48" is only 8" more than 40", but 6' is my limit in lenght. "Lou built this one from an Atlas plan (Atlasrr.com) it is 4x6. " Now that a nice layout, a double loop with three sidings. Thanks I'll get started, asap. Ron
You will probably get some flack from the 'Purists', but if you do a little surgery on the cars and engines, you can make 0-4-0 steamers and most short cars go around curves as small as 8" radius if you have to. Keep in mind that it will look like a Lionel set, but can be made to work. We engoyed our Lionel trains a whiole lot, so why fight it?
Let us know what the size is of the space you have availiable and we'll see what the best option is. Looking at my layout, the 4x11 part of it has the most wasted space and is the most un-realistic part of it. It has 2 mainline loops with a couple crossovers, a siding that winds thru some mountains and one industy spur. Honestly I am considering selling this section and making a 2' wide replacement for it. It would give me more room in the garage and be easier to reach the back of the layout because it's up against the wall. You can also get a pretty large radius in a corner with a 2' width when you don't have a loop to worry about, so your locomotive choices are unrestricted.
Purists? Hi, Watash Well I dealth with so call purists before, I don't listen to them. My main objective is to build an HO set up, and the only way to be a true purist is to be the richest person in the world, to then buy half a state in the USA, and build the real thing. All we can come close to is taking a model train and try to "make" it look real, but how real is the question! I myself would be thrilled just to get this 48" x 72" layout set up. I really like the layout that traingeekboy showed me, with a little embellishment I could build a really nice looking layout, It may look like a Lionel set to some, but to me it will look more like a really cool looking layout, part real as real could be in model trains, and part fancy. I would say that is more then enough, so as you say why fight it? Take care, Ron
A new problem I am by definition a dabbler in model railroading. I like to work at something for a short period of time and then give up for a while... Recently i am back in trying to set up my 4*8 HO double oval layout with a small yard and seem to be doing everything ass backwards until i read the "correct way" after i am done with a task. So i come for advice... I have Atlas remote snap switches set up at multiple points and the steps of my locomotives (Bachmann Spectrum GE-E33's) get caught on the manuel peg of the switch. What can i do without replacing my turnouts? I realize after the fact that those turnouts are not very prototypical and i would have went with a small radius, instead something like a #8.
Hi, Ron. I built the 4' x 6' layout in the picture years ago on a Saturday for my kids to use - well, for me , too. The track plan was modified just a bit from the Atlas plan called the Dispatchers Delight #10002 on the Atlas web site (I added an extra turnout so that one of the sidings has two tracks). If you look at the phot you can see that there is a frame around the layout which is an inch or two above the layout surface - this was done in case a car - or locomotive - was knocked off the track accidentally it wouldn't hit the floor. The outside curves are 18" radius, and I believe that if I remember right the inside radius is 15". I used scrap wood that was laying around in my shed, and the layout is still operational today. I usually store this layout on it's end in the garage, and when I want to run some of my HO equipment, I place it on some folding saw horses. I used Atlas Selectors for contolling blocks on the layout.
These are some of the problems with tight radius's and corners. You haven't had fun until you try a long train on your layout and the whole thing flops on it's side because the radius is too small
Hello Hi, Tim Thanks for the info, I was planing to copy your layout. I did see the frame around the layout to help stop loco's or cars from flying to the floor. Thanks, Ron
