Few questions by a brand new train owner

Ok so I got my son a new Bachmann Digital Command Center train system(HO) with two locomotives for Christmas(see pic below). We set it up ran the cars for a while and got bored. We want to do more with it. So here are my questions:

1. If we buy more EZ track to expand our track do we have to add more power to run the two locos? add locos? If we have to add power what do we need to get that will work with the DCC?
2. The track came with a manual switch. Is there a switch that can be controlled with the Bachmann Digital command center?
3. We want to do inclines...are there tracks made with up/down inclines?
4. What do the different numbers on tracks mean...like 85, 100, etc. Can you mix and match track types/manufactures?
5. The only place in town that has hobby stuff is Hobby Lobby and their selection is quite limited...can I get suggestions on what locomotive to add to our setup, where to get it and what it might cost? This is what we have:
6. What about tunnels do you build your own?
7. How many cars can these locos pull? We only have what came with the set.
8. How do you keep from getting bored:tb-wacky:...if all the train does is go in a circle I need a different hobby :tb-ooh: but I'm sure there is lots more to it...so tell me what that is...please

Thank you for your anticipated responses.

 

Not sure I can answer all your questions but will try, numbered as you have:

1. Adding additional track may require additional feeder wires to the track from your power source. Adding additional feeders is relatively simple either using feeder wire sets that can be purchased or simply by soldering additional feeder wires to the tracks. As a general rule, feeders every six feed should be sufficient. More can be added if there are still areas where power drops (your trains travel more slowly).

2. Don't know about what is available from Bachmann. Most DCC systems allow for control of switches (with controls purchased separately) and most brands of track include remote controlled switches.

3. Yes, most brands of track have riser sets for inclines. I assume EZ track does but I'm not positive.

4. The numbers indicate rail weight, the larger the number the heavier (larger) the rail. Mixing brands/weights is usually possible with effort. I suggest sticking to one brand/weight.

5. I'd recommend locos by Kato and Atlas as a start. And there are others that are no doubt superior to Bachmann. Check dealers like M.B. woo woo woo for prices. http://www.some train store.com/

6. I built my tunnels using the same plaster construction as my other scenery. Make sure you have mountainous areas big enough to require tunnels. Small hills with tunnels look toy-like. And if you build them, allow for access to the inside in case of derailments.

7. Don't know. You can determine the limit by adding additional cars.

8. Even with a room-sized layout with reverse loops, alternate track routes, etc. there will be times of boredom. Build a structure or a rolling stock kit, do track cleaning and maintenance, or play a round of golf. You'll come back to running trains with a fresh perspective.



Have fun!
Ben

 

The only solution to stop boredom: buy more track and cars. It will give you more possibilities to run your trains. Do not forget sidings (so trains can pass each other), a yard (you have to store your cars somewhere), and industrial spurs (your cars move goods so you need customers). It will make it far more interesting than it is now with that oval.

Last months I have been working on the (N scale) layout of my son. You can do a lot with a simple oval, some elevations and a bridge:



And visit the RailImages albums for more inspiration for your own layout!

 

Well, let me see if I can have a crack at this one too.
1) EZ track is made for expansion. If you get a really large layout then I suspect there will be power issues but these can be corrected with power boosters that are compatible with Bachmann DCC systems (I suggest looking at the Bachmann website). Also, I recommend that you go to Hobby Lobby and pick up a few of the Atlas layout planning books (Our Hobby Lobby carries them so yours might also). Do this before you start buying track because it is important to have an idea of where you want the layout to go, how large it can be given your space etc. If you can't get them at HL look on the net for them, they REALLY help!

2) As far as I know the EZ track switches come with wiring and a slide-type switch that you push to one side ot the other to make the points on the switch track move. It may be that this is not so in the "all in one sets" but look at Hobby Lobby as I just purchased one there. It can be wired to the Accessories portion of the Bachmann DCC system, but look at the directions.

3) Inclines can be tough. I believe that Bachmann makes a "Bridge and Pier" set for the EZ track. This allows you to do things like build and over and under figure 8. Woodland Scenics also makes a foam riser system to make slow inclines.

4) As mentioned above, the different numbers of track indicate different rail size. I believe the EZ track system is Code 100 and if you link other Code 100 from other manufacturers it should be fine. I recommend staying with the EZ track brand, however.

5) Loco selections are really a matter of choice. I suggest going to some of the great online sponsors of Trainboard and looking at their inventory. Part of the decision should come from what YOU want to do with your railroad. Choose a time period and place and that will help you choose locomotives and rolling stock.

6) Tunnels are usually scratch built but tunnel portals can be bought (see Woodland Scenics website). Again, look at the Atlas books on basic scenery for a great guide to building these things. There are lots of techniques. My personal approach is water putty or even plaster over screen wire that is shaped over wadded up paper.

7) Generally engines that come in an "all in one" set may not have the pulling power of engines purchased separately or by other manufacturers. Not knowing the size/specs of the motors I cannot really say how many you can pull. I guess one way to check is keep adding cars till it won't pull anymore

8) Boredom? This hobby has SO many aspects that if one gets boring you can switch to another, then come back again later. For instance, if I get bored with doing scenery, I stop and start working on a building, weathering a box car, wiring, or just thinking about the layout.

Hope this helps!
J

 

Thank you for all the responses. As this is the last day of the year I hit the Hobby Lobby one last time before they closed and picked up four 9' straights to make my oval bigger. I tried to find a layout guide but all they had were books for N Scale. I'll probably look here and online for info on this. I do have to set up something more convenient and permanent for the layout. My track is on the floor and I have quite a bit of room to work with for now...Wife so far is ok with it:tb-biggrin:. I want to build a table to put it on. I live outside of the Atlanta Metro area in Georgia, US, so if anyone knows of another good hobby shop in the area that would be great. I live in the east side of town but will travel for good train accesories and the like :tb-wink:. I found the over and under figure 8 on Ez track on ebay. I think I might like to give that a try. Sorry for all the questions but here are some follow ups to the answers so far.

1. On the power question: The DCC has a plug in to the track and no other visible place to pull power off to power additional track. It has some additional plug ins for a second person to control trains and stuff. So how does one add power to a DCC track like EZ track using the Digital Control Command system? Anyone know how much track one Digital Commander as the one included with this train will power? Can I use a DC power pack to power accesories and lights on a DCC track?

2. Having bought a DCC track and train I went online to see what a good loco would be to have a really strong and reliable one. Everyone has recommended Atlas and Athearn but when I tried to find one of these with DCC on them on Ebay I found they cost more than everything I have bought put together:tb-sad:! The cheapest ran about $129 + shipping. Are there good affordable DCC locos that are good or are they all this expensive?

3. I have heard people write on the boards about periods. Besides the way the locomotives look is there any way to know what period they are from? Is there any site that has them listed by period?

4. Anyone using remote turnout switches with Bachmanns Digital Commander? How do you do that? I have learned how to program the locos and turn lights on/off etc. I have looked at the turnouts with switches that comes with cables but I have no idea how I would hook them up or operate them. (the digital commander does not have AC or DC power outs on it just a plug to the track and a couple of plugs to add features like an additional controller)

5. My set came with a magnet and a little figure of a guy(a conductor maybe?). I have no idea what they are for and the instructions don't say.


6. As to boredom we built our first structure if you will last night. A tunnel made of cardboard. Thinking that it might cut through a mountain on the layout when we get it done or maybe a wall in the house who knows:tb-cool:. Anyway I think I could get into this I like the detail and the options, just wish everything wasn't so expensive.

Anyway this is what I have so far...see picture.

 

Wow, that's a boat load ... errr, make that car load of questions and they are all good!

>>>With all those questions, I STRONGLY recommend you start here!<<<

I see quite a bit of reading in your future!

 

Yes, a lot of reading.
A Quick answer on the Period for you.
Train sets are notorious for mixing and matching equipment out of period. I can tell you the following based on what I know about the Bachmann catalogue.

You have an EMD FT locomotive in Santa Fe passenger colors. That's the red and silver unit.

These are from the mid 40s to I'd say the 50s/early early 60s. Don't know when SF traded their's in, but you'd be unlikely to find one today.

The second unit is I think a GP40 (can't tell for sure in those pictures)
The GP40 is from the 60s, but many can still be seen today.

As for the cars, neither car is particularly modern though the Hopper car, I think could pass for modern. The Caboose is of course not modern, but anything up to say the Mid-80s could still use it.

As for adding more locmotives with DCC. Bachmann makes a couple of designs beyond the 2 you have including a GP38-2 and a GP35 (roughly contemporary to the GP40) These units run around $50, sometimes less.
These units run OK, but they aren't the most detailed. If you're just getting into the hobby, I think they should be fine, but if you ever get more concerned with detail, then you will find them lacking. Again, for right now, These units should be fine.

If you have any electro-mechanical skill, you could convert a regular DC locomotive to DCC by installing a decoder. If you are competant with a soldering iron, then this may be an excellent route to go.
Athearn makes a number of Locomotives in what Hobbiests call their Blue Box and RTR lines that are of good quality and are just a modification away from being DCC.

You'll also find that adding more cars can become costly with some cars costing as much as $30. At the other end, Athearn makes excellent Blue Box car kits that are under $10 a piece. They require very little work to put together though the selection is limited.

Anyway, I'd start by adding some track and a few more cars and read read read. Don't worry about expensive locomotives until then.

 

Hello. Here's my long-winded attempt to answer some of your questions

0. Some of the N-Scale plans could be migrated to HO; obviously all the dimensions are going to be wrong for you; but the ideas / the way the space is laid out still apply.

1. To feed in power to the track; bachmann will sell a "feeder" track, a short straight that can be plugged into just like the existing one you have. Just watch you get the wires around the right way
You can save money if you're inclined by using a soldering iron to solder wires directly to the rail; taking care not to get any mess where the wheels run. With practice, this can be made quite neat.

1. How much track you can power is usually a non-issue; although you will need to add more feeders every six feet or so - track is a notoriously bad conductor, and trains will slow down when they're too far from a feed. For DCC any single piece of wire between the command station and the track can be about 30 FEET; so if you put the command station in the middle of your track empire; that's all track in a 60 FOOT circle powered.

What you will be limited by is the number of Engines you can power. As a starter kit, you probably have 1A, 3A or maybe 5A. It should be printed somewhere on the command station / bit that plugs into the wall. Each engine will probably use less than 1A most of the time, but could peak at 1.5-2A if it's heavily loaded (trying to pull the family cat down the track, for example). Assume one engine per Amp and you shouldn't be far off.

2. I can't comment on Ebay, never used it. I've heard it varies from Overly Pricey to Very Cheap; depending on what you're after, the time of day, the weather; etc. There's a couple of online stores who support TrainBoard that might be able to give you a more realistic idea of price.
Additionally, if you're mechanically inclined, you can buy non DCC engines that are "DCC ready" - in HO, these are often very easy to make DCC, as compared to N which requires more fiddling. Then you buy a separate decoder and put the two together (or pay someone to do it for you). If you have a local club in your area, they might be able to help you here.
Often separate decoders are "better" than factory-installed ones; with more features and nifty bits. For basic "make engine go backwards and forwards, turn lights on and off", factory-installed will probably do you fine.

3. Various details on the layout can contribute to Period, beyond the engine and the cars; things like vehicle style, building style, traffic lights and clothes (aah, fashion!) can help define which decade you're dealing with. One way to imagine it is as a hollywood movie set in a given year; although it's easier to model a bunch of years to allow some freedom in choices.

4. no idea, sorry; too many variables. Odds are each turnout has three wires and you have to provide simple AC or DC between two of them to make the point switch one way; and between the other one + the common one to make the point switch the other. But which two wires? aaah... No idea.

5. The little conductor; is he perchance fat?
If the magnet fits between the rails, it might be used for "automatic uncoupling", and the little man can be stood beside the tracks to remind you where the uncoupling magnet is.
Alternatively, the conductor is for the family dog / small child to chew on (check for lead paint first!) and the magnet is ????

6. You don't have to have an oval; you can have point-to-point, point-to-loop or any one of a large number of various layout ideas. Most of which are a lot more interesting than watching a train orbit an oval loop
Even staying with the oval, you can add interest by (for example) pushing in one side of the oval to make a "dog-bone".

I'd suggest wandering through RailImages at the photos of some member's layouts (but not mine; there's nothing to see!) to get some Ideas. Don't be disheartened by these people with basement empires, 48 FEET by 48 FEET. It's possible to have a very nice layout in only a few feet.
I think some of the way to avoid boredom at the onset is to approach it from a different angle - imagine a location with trains going past, and build scenery and add track to achieve that goal.
Then you can amuse yourself with all the different aspects of making the dream come true:

• research which engines + cars are appropriate for your place and time
• research which buildings are appropriate
• building buildings
• adding "details" to buildings - maybe the downpipe isn't quite right for your location? or you want a different window arrangement...
• making things look "dirty" - I've not seen a shiny clean train yet
• making little trees to cover the hillside
• etc...

Welcome to TrainBoard; it's a great place.
Welcome to model trains; it's a great hobby.

 

http://donsdepot.donrossgroup.net/dr104.htm Looks like they were traded in between 1957 and 1965, maybe a wider period.

Wow. I didn't know any FTs were withdrawn that early. The earliest I knew of before were MP's, traded in in '59. Conversely, NP's last two FTs made it to the BN merger in '70.

Whatever type of GP it is, it's not wearing a 60s scheme. The blue and yellow warbonnet was introduced in 1972, and had black trucks for the first couple years.

I can't tell when it was built - hoppers look pretty similar over long periods of time. The paint scheme sets it as late 80s and up, though.

Okay, this is probably more than you wanted to know.

That's the going rate for good DCC-equipped power.

 

Try HobbyTown USA (http://www.hobbytownusa.com). They have a few locations around Atlanta but the one in Kennesaw by the Town Center mall is huge. It has a lot of equipment and accesories.
I am unable to answer your other questions 'cos I run a Marklin layout.

 

Hi..

I myself have been in the hobby for about 40 years and hope to be in it for 40 more years. I have built a few layout over that time and are looking to start a new one.

The only advice I caould offer is to look for your local model railway club and spend a few night asking questions. Maybe after a short time you may join.. You will find most members are very helpfully and will offer great advice. You could also buy some model railway books and magazines which have heaps of info, the internet is a great place to start and as always here on the forum.

At first there is some much to learn but life anything in live "you have to crawl before you can walk"

As for gettng bored with he hobby, sorry don't have time too.. so much to do.

Stuart in OZ

 

Well, I also left out the Santa Fe never owned any GP40s regardless of scheme. They had a single GP40-2 that they got in a merger. So the paint scheme (if it is a GP40) is very very wrong.
Also, I don't think the FTs ever wore the passenger scheme.

Now we're seriously getting into TMI.

 

I think for a start you should get your equiptment off the floor(if you have space). You can go to home depot and get a sheet of plywood and some 2 x 4's to start if you want. You can build a nice size layout on a sheet of plywood. This is a good way to start. That is how i got going in this hobby. You learn a whole lot as you go. Keep asking questions. That is what i have been doing. I wont be able to anwser all of your questions but i can offer you this piece of advice. Dont stop with this hobby!! My dad did the same for me when i was young. Now, i am wanting to continue this throuhout my life. I would hope that you continue and that it rubbs of on your son as it did on me.:we-biggrin:

 

I'd suggest that you don't try to upgrade everything at once (more track, more engines, more cars). You will keep learning more about the model trains as you go and will possibly wish you had made different decisions along the way. One decision you might make along the way is to discard the EZ track and build a layout. Or you might want to have engines and cars that together represent what an actual train might have looked like but the engines and cars you have purchased don't go together that way. For some people, nothing in the the set they bought ends up in the final layout, the set ended up being a teaching tool.

If you want to create inexpensive scenery, you can use the color printer on your computer to create buildings and the like. Then, it's not too painful ($$) to discard the scenery if you create a full layout later.

As far as track goes, you do not need more power for additional track. The posts so far have already described the need for feeder wires. You can get an expansion pack of EZTrack and then add from there. There are both manual and remote turnouts but in this case I think remote means that you have wires that allow you to flip a switch a few feet from the turnout. You can go to the Bachman web site or Walthers and look up Bachman under manufacturers to see what's available. You might experience some discomfort in your wallet when you figure what it would cost to add lots of track.