I just ordered a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 Consolidation and see that it said it was DCC Ready. I can't find anything regarding this on their web page and a search of the internet wasn't very helpful. Does anyone know what Bachmann means by "DCC Ready"? I have a Digitrax DZ143 on hand that I plan to use for this engine unless there is a better or easier option. Thanks.
Spectrum 2-8-0 i sDCC ready. That means the motor's brushes can be easily isolated from h etrack pickups or frame. I've done one using the instructions found at the following link: http://mvns.railfan.net/dcc//bach280_dec_inst.pdf You will need a decoder smaller than a DZ143 for this installation. Lenz gold or silver mini, TCS M1, etc. Martin Myers
I had seen that thread on how to do the install but the date on it was old enough I thought maybe something had changed with eith either the DCC-readiness of the loco or the size of available decoders. I see the TCS M1 is very reasonably priced. Is there any concern with using it rather than the Lenz products (which cost quite a bit more)? I'm running a Digitrax Zephyr system. Thanks.
Good enough reason for me I just ordered one (the TCS M1). Hopefully both train and decoder will arrive yet this week. Should I break in the loco on DC first or go ahead and install the decoder?
Lucky you! I did a write up about using the M1 on this loco and TCS put it up on their website, pictures and all. It was a very easy install. http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/Bachman20N%20scale%202-8-0/bachman_n_scale_2_8_0.htm My 15 mins. of fame.
MK, Thanks! I just read through your walk-through and I'm grateful for the advice. Looks like a fairly straight forward process but having pictures and step-by-step instructions using the exact same components is about as good as it gets! BTW, I think the lowest wattage solder iron I have is 40W. I might have to pick up a 25W just to be safe.
Augy, Definitely get a 25W iron for the wires. The 40W will come in handy for heavier stuff like rails, etc. I would highly suggest that you break it in with DC before doing the decoder install. You don't want to waste all that effort in case you get a dud. Once you know it runs well in DC you know that it will run well in DCC, if your install was correct. Good luck. You'll love the 2-8-0 on DCC.
MK, Thanks again for the link to your write-up. I followed it and got the decoder installed (and working!). Just an FYI to anyone else who follows this procedure though. The wire colors on my loco were just the opposite of both the decoder and your write up. This was true for all 3 pairs of wires. I did the light first and that was where I caught it. I then noted that the others were opposite as well (for example, my loco had the orange wire on the botom tab and the grey on the top). I only point this out because I think you mentioned in your procedure that the wire colors of the decoder matched the loco and I'd hate for someone to not catch this and possibly damage something. In the end, it was a pretty easy procedure (my first wired decoder install) and it was made much much easier thanks to your help!
Augy, Thanks for the note. Leave it to Bachmann's quality control. I'm glad everything worked out for your. Now how to spread the driver wheels as my copy is a bit on the narrow side....
I found the TCS M2 was a tiny bit too long to fit into the space provided in the 2-8-0. I could force it in, but was afraid of crimping the wires. A quick grind with the dremel was all that was required. Anyone else find this? MK, I use the old "twist the screwdriver" method. Most folks do not recommend this method. I've been doing it for about 35 years, so perhaps I've developed the necessary feel. And it is very much a "feel" operation. For those unfamiliar with the method, I take a small flat-blade screwdriver and insert it between the frame and the wheel. Then I twist the screwdriver until the wheel "pops" out a little bit. The size of the blade is critical. I chose a blade that, when initially twisted to make contact with both the frame and the wheel, is at about a 30 degree angle to the parallel edges. That is, the blade should be about twice the width of the gap between frame and wheel. I increase the twisting force ever so gradually until the wheel moves. Sometimes it pops; sometimes it just moves ever so slightly. If I get the blade down toward the center of the wheel, I don't usually get a slanted wheel. Sometimes you have to do both sides. In recent years, I can't remember "over-popping" the gauge. This method also works with diesels.
Pete, Call me a scaredy cat but taking a screwdriver to a delicate steamer just sends chills down my spine. With a diesel I'll take'em totally apart in seconds w/o even thinking about it. One day, one day, I'll give it a shot. The 2-8-0 Connie is the only running decoderized steamer that I have so I don't want to screw it up. My MDC 2-6-0 is being converted and it should run at smooth if not smoother than my Connie. (Watch someone will come on and yell at me for using the world "Connie" - hahaha!) Oh yeah, my N-scale Thomas is fully decoderized. Does he count as a steamer?
Bachmann... Quality control? Hmmm.... I've never seen an N Scale Thomas. Did you install the decoder yourself? Do you have pictures?
He's an 0-6-0. I think that counts. I put surface mount led's in the eyeballs on my Thomas. Need to redo the install with a 4 function decoder so the eyes can be set up as ditch lights. Is your's the newer split frame design? Martin Myers
Lowen and Martin, Yes, mine is of the newer split frame design. SMT LEDs in the eyes...hmmmm (lightbulb on top of head). Here's my write up of the install along with pictures. TCS posted it in their how-to section. I should have placed a quarter in the photos for size comparison. Tomix Thomas the Tank Engine M1 Decoder Installation
