Need advice on layout idea

Augy Dec 16, 2007

  1. HuskerN

    HuskerN E-Mail Bounces

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    "L" shape layout

    Remember Mike Danneman's 5x7 mountain layout? Here is a duplicate of that trackplan I helped a friend build. Expand the 5x7 to 8x10 or what ever size "L" you want. It has a nice S curve, elevation changes, and flowing mainline.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    HuskerN
     
  2. Augy

    Augy TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the advice and vote of confidence. I've been working with the layout and can now lay flextrack which is making for a much better design. I actually have the bent dogbone desinged in now and will look into trying this spiral easement suggestion. Thanks! I should have something post-worthy soon.
     
  3. Augy

    Augy TrainBoard Member

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    HuskerN, what is the maximum grade on that layout you have pictured? It looks great.
     
  4. Chaya

    Chaya TrainBoard Supporter

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    Yes, flextrack is all I use. (I really like its'--uh--"flex"ibility). :tb-biggrin: It allows me to create completely natural curvatures. I'll be looking forward to seeing updates on your layout!
     
  5. dstuard

    dstuard TrainBoard Member

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    I too would caution you about physical access. The turnouts in the corner of the room (as all turnouts) WILL experience derailments! Also, as you switch industries on those spurs, you will need access to uncouple cars (I don't care for magnets myself - too inflexible). You could eliminate the "turnback" track in the middle of the "L" and put in an access hatch if necessary.

    I'll also echo the comment about turnouts and reverse curves. In a number of places (the main yard ladder being the most obvious) you have turnouts such that negotiating your way to the last track would have your train waddling like a duck (and likely derailing as well). In the case of the yard ladder, I would replace the lower two LH turnouts with RH ones. Same idea for the two spurs on the left side of the layout. That would give you longer yard tracks as well.
     
  6. Triplex

    Triplex TrainBoard Member

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    More accurately, 12.5" and 14" radius, since you shouldn't put too much space between the mains. And with it that close to the edge, a barrier is advisable.
    So then, maybe 12" and 13.5" radius, allowing for transition curves.
    If it's double track, I don't think it's a branchline.
     
  7. Augy

    Augy TrainBoard Member

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    I've been digesting all the advice (some of it very enlightening...especially regarding transitioning from curves, spiral easements, etc.). Also, the information on changing from LH to RH remotes for my yard was brilliantly simple I'm embarassed I hadn't considered it (thanks dstuard!) Once I figured out how to lay flextrack in the software I was able to really smooth out some of the tighter turns. I used my first design as a template and tried to fix the problems with radius and transitions and also minimize the turnouts that aren't within easy reach. So, are there some glaring flaws with this design or am I getting closer? Thanks again for all the advice...
     

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  8. Chaya

    Chaya TrainBoard Supporter

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    The switches in the rear are still bothering me just a leeeetle bit. The only glaring problems I see: a serious S-curve on your mainline on the bottom leg on the far right; also, you need a right-hand turnout at the top of the layout diagram (6' from the corner and 2' in from the wall). That would prevent your engines and rolling stock from having to negotiate a tight curve in the middle of their mainline runs.

    I wondered how you could get all the things you want without severe curves and turnouts in difficult places, and it occurred to me that you have the mainline following the backdrop throughout the rear of the layout. That's really going to limit your scenicking possibilities.

    Okay, so I'm really no genius with MS-Paint, but I scribbled an idea up for you to consider that pushes the track up from the backdrop toward the operator. I only eyeballed the curves and can see a couple of areas that would have to be finessed using better software (or butcher-paper, a ruler, a nail, and a pencil, which I use anyway when I get ready to transfer plans to layout). In particular, the curve 5' from the corner and 1' in from the wall is too severe. It can easily be smoothed out. The siding in the same loop could begin earlier, too, giving you a longer siding. This is not a layout yet, it's just some ideas for you to think about. As I've drawn it, a couple of curved turnouts should be used. They're a little more expensive, but you have a very demanding track plan! You'd need to check first to make sure the brand of track you want to use offers curved turnouts.
     

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  9. Augy

    Augy TrainBoard Member

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    Chaya, thanks for taking the time to edit my picture. It's true what they say about a picture being worth a thousand words :) I've been playing with my layout and am trying to incorporate your suggestions. It's going to take awhile but I'm definately getting better with the software. I'll keep at it and post back when I have something worth sharing.
     
  10. mdenny

    mdenny TrainBoard Member

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    To answer your question - I think you are getting closer! Honestly, I'm kinda smitten with your plan. I concur with Chaya about moving the track away from the wall, and I think what he's drawn makes a great deal of sense. I believe he's captured the essence of what your proposed but has simplified it elegantly. Likewise (and most importantly IMHO) Chaya's variation does offer up a much better scenery options...

    I'm wondering if it might make sense to a single line following the backdrop to serve as simple staging? My $0.02 (and expecting change)
     
  11. Augy

    Augy TrainBoard Member

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    I guess when I first laid it out I was thinking the tracks along the long back wall would be behind the scenery (a town maybe) and would sort of break up the view of the train and maybe lend a sense of distance. Now that I think about it with the scenery being a backdrop I can visualize it totally differently.

    I think the scenery and modeling aspects of the hobby interest me the most but I've never really "operated" trains so I want to incorporate that into the layout as it appears that is what keeps people interested once the layout is mostly in place. So, I'm hoping to build in some operating capabilities but also a mainline to allow my boys to "watch the trains run".

    I think with the help and advice given here, I'll eventually end up with something worth building and will certainly learn a LOT about layout design :) I can't even imagine how much help I'll need once I start to actually build it!
     
  12. Augy

    Augy TrainBoard Member

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    I think I have something closer now thanks to Chaya's drawing. I tried to "test run" it with trains within the software and it seems to work ok. I also tried to minimize the number of turnouts since they eat up so much of the initial budget. I could probably do away with one more pair and still have it work well. I'm thinking I'd only need one pair each to go from innner-to-outer and outer-to-inner loops (I think I have one extra pair that does that right now). Is that sufficient or would that cause problems or issues I'm not thinking of? Thanks again.
     

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  13. Rasputen

    Rasputen TrainBoard Member

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    Having the sidings closer to the front edge like you have done is definitely going to make operations easier. There is a lot of track parallel to the edge of the benchwork, which you may get tired of looking at (I know I'm tired of mine). You may want to separate the two main lines in some places so that one goes through a tunnel, or opposite sides of a river to add more visual interest. For more turnout access you could consider moving the pair located about 8 feet along the horizontal axis in your drawing, close to the wall, to a point further around the right hand loop, or even all the way around to the front of the layout. I would leave these in somewhere if you can afford them, as these form part of a passing area which also adds operational interest. Think about the length of your typical trains when placing these around the main line.
     
  14. Chaya

    Chaya TrainBoard Supporter

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    I can't imagine why it would cause problems.
    I think your new track plan looks great, and I'm more envious than ever. :tb-smile:

    I can see only one problem, easily rectified. The turnout on the bottom of the diagram, about 7" in from the wall and 7-1/2' from the corner, is a RH turnout. It forces your equipment to negotiate a tight-radius curve in the middle of a nice, smoothly flowing run. Change it to a LH turnout and you'll be all set. If you do it right, it might be possible to place both of these turnouts on a section of straight track at least 8" long and avoid having to buy a curved turnout.

    You can always add turnouts later as you can afford them. It's easy. I think if it were me, I'd add some turnouts to the yard so switchers can sort cars, as well as adding an additional track to the yard.

    Nice, nice job!
    :thumbs_up:
     
  15. Chaya

    Chaya TrainBoard Supporter

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    I just realized that you have another problem turnout toward the front edge of the layout, horizontal axis at about 7'. Make it an RH and you can smooth things out a lot. In general, whenever I make one of these I use two of the same exact turnouts: two LH or two RH. The mainline always gets the straight leg.

    I didn't even think of it, but Rasputen is right. One thing you can do is push the front track toward the wall a little at 4' on the vertical axis. Another thing you can do (now, don't get mad at me!) is move the yard into one of your loops. It will give you much more room for an interesting yard plus servicing facilities. Then you can push the rear tracks a little closer to the front and move those problem turnouts to the left, closer to the front. See if you can give some of the track a little bit of meandering effect to increase interest and cut down on long straightaways. Your loop siding can be moved to where the yard was. I would also put at least a little curve on a couple of sidings. With three-foot sidings in N scale, you can afford to do that. On my sidings I like to add a little bit of curve to the diverging track so that the siding parallels the mainline for a little and only gradually slopes away. It wouldn't hurt to have your industries sitting a little closer to the front so all the detail can be seen really well.

    One final observation--and I should have brought this up in the beginning. Will you be wanting any water features? Rivers, creeks, or arroyos? A lake or pond that you will have to allow for with your benchwork? Roads to cross over? A bridge? A trestle? They definitely need to be figured into your track plan. Also, what is your terrain? Is it flatland like Kansas, or should there be hills or mountains or mesas? For instance, is the railroad supposed to be climbing anywhere and you're just going to make it look that way while keeping it flat (my personal favorite)? Or do you want grade for the challenge of it? Culverts should be planned, too, or you may end up with a need for them but no place to put them.

    I know it seems like it's all something you can think about later, but in my experience it's best thought of before a track plan is finalized.

    Then again, if it's all flat and dry--which is perfectly prototypical for short distances even in the midst of rough terrain--you have nothing to worry about!

    I really like Rasputen's tunnel and river ideas.
     
  16. Augy

    Augy TrainBoard Member

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    Sigh....

    Just kidding:tb-biggrin:

    This is turning into a tremendous learning experience and I'd rather get it right on paper first. I do plan to add water and a mountain/tunnel of some sort. I'd like to do a large gulley and/or river with large tressels but I just don't see that being practical in this space with the amount of track I want. Maybe you see an opportunity?

    I just extended the bottom leg all the way to the right adding almost 2 feet. I saw no reason not to use that space. This will allow for a tunnel on just the outer "mainline" to break it up a bit. I could alos use it for a water feature or turn my yard around and run them over to that area. I'll play around with it.

    I also broke up some of the long straights and put in some gentle curves which I think will add a LOT to watching them just run circuits.

    I'll play around some more and post back after incorporating the suggestions for improvements. I'm probably going to have to stop day-dreaming about this layout and go put some finishing touches on the door layout I DO have done so it's ready for Christmas morning. Thanks again.
     

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