I have an opportunity to build a new HO scale layout, basically starting over from scratch. I'd like to build it around-the-walls, but the cost of "traditional" benchwork is outside of the available budget, so I'm considering using "L" brackets attached to the walls every 18" to 24" to support 24" wide, 2" thick blue foam board. My questions are: 1. How can I attach the foam to the brackets so it doesn't slide off onto the floor? ;-) 2. How far apart should the brackets be to support the foam board (and trains, track, scenery, etc.)? 3. Any recommendations about make or model of brackets? 4. How can I join the foam board segments end-to-end? Please feel free to ask me any questions for clarification, via either public post or private message. Thanks in advance for your ideas, experiences, etc.
I don't know the cost of "L" Brackets but you may want to consider making them from 1x2, (wood) which you could use Liquid Nails to fasten the foam to. I expect 1x2s would be cheaper than the "L" Brackets.
Glue the 2" foam onto 24" hollow core door panels. Screws to the bottom of the door panels through the metal brackets. They sell those narrow panels for closets and such, and they are cheap for the square footage you get, very rigid and lightweight. You can mount switch mechanisms to it. IMHO
Foam vs wood As amember of a model railroad club that has a portable layout may I add my two cents worth.. The club layout is built on foam which is glued to pannels made from 1"X4" framing and 1/4"plywood. Everything is glued and held together with drywall screws. The layout pieces are 2'X8' the size of the foamboard. The layout is light weight when it comes to moving it. latex Liquid Nails was spread on the plywood using a tool for spreading glue for floor tile. The foam was placed on the wood and weighted down to make sure full contact was made and allowed to dry for a week. Of course nothing can be nailed so yellow Elmers carpenters glue was used for glueing other layers of foam and the roadbed and track.
I think you may be surprised at what's actually cheaper. There are traditional L brackets, but they may not work so well if you're going to have benchwork deeper than about 12" - 16". That might be pushing it. there are those adjustable shelving brackets, where you screw in the vertical piece, then the horizontal shelf brackets snap in.. but those are more $$ If you're handy at all, I'd second the suggestion of making your own brackets out of 1x2s, or even riping some 3/4" plywood and making brackets from that. This example is even more complicated that it really needs to be. Here's also a link that may be helpful Benchwork3 I think most of us would suggest having something under the foam as well. Foam alone can have a tendancy to curve.. The door idea is easy and cheap. Tim
You'll definitely need a wood underlay, such as already suggested, or some minimal light framework, to support that foam board. Boxcab E50
I'm building the extensions of my layout with the L brackets. They seem to be supporting the light weight of the foam just fine. I have attached the brackets to the wall studs, and have laid 1x3's on top of the bracket to extend out. You can use this 1x3 to attach the foam to using Liquid nails. A 1x3 will support the sections that are further out than the 12-16" that you might otherwise limit yourself to. On my layout, so far anyway, all is holding just fine.
I have never used foan so this is just my thoughts toward a solution. You could use the metal L brackets and scrfew a 1x4 to it extending out to the edge of the foam. If you do not use a plywood underlayment you may need to have mor brackets for support. You could build the wooden L-brackets, as I did, and run 2 L-girders the length of the layout, one against the wall the other further out, and ust 1x4 wood for runners that support the risers to the roadbed. Its more traditional I know but I have never done a layout with foam. I went a bit deaper but You could shrink up the wood to maybe 1x3 and smaller brackets for a more narrow shelf.
I have used the bi-fold closet doors (18" wide) with a layer of foam on top and am quite happy with the results. Two brackets per door give plenty of support. Also the bracket doesn't need to come all the way to the edge of the layout for support. With a 24" deep shelf you may need more. Also remeber anything at the back of a 24" shelf is at the edge of you reach for cleaning and re-railing. To align them end to end a dowel in the existing hardware hole worked perfect with a wooden cleat on the underside to keep them snug. This also gives me a modular type layout that I can expand and rearrange when I move to a different house. Doors can be bought new for a fraction of the cost of "real" benchwork and as mentioned used doors can be often found for FREE (my favorite 4 letter "F" word). I have found though that used doors can vary in thickness some so always check for good alignment.
TO RIVER OTTER: papasmurf in NH here. Old geezer; back in HO after year's lapse; ton of HO in storage. Close to starting a-t-r HO narrow shelf layout. Using Super article in RMC[need to dig out the back-issues]. If interested in conferring, please contact me off-forum. Article author used wall brackets from Home Depot[were made in Canada; no longer sold by them]. I'm using US-made ones, which will work OK. You need wood frame to support foam sheets. Will start a search for those RMC back-issues. TTFN.
Don't the hollow core doors cause a problem with running the wiring through them? Switch machines would be difficult to mount? How thick is the foam? I would have thought that the door plus foam would be too thick. Thanks.
I have no problem with 2" foam on a 2" door. Feeders need to be fished through with a bit of patience, but I'm getting pretty good at stabbing them through the first time. The doors accept wood screws well, and hold my machines in place, rigid as can be. I had to find some longer spring wire to work the turnout, but found some 12" stock at McMaster-Carr.
Just for the record, I have used 2-inch thick foam on brackets alone - no doors, plywood, or Masonite underneath. No problems. I did not have 50 pounds of plaster on top of the foam though, so YMMV. You can run wires in trenches in the top of the foam or glue them to the underside or use Velcro loops underneath.
That pretty much sums it up. I think my foam is 1 1/2". My turnouts are thrown manually (for now) so that hasn't been an issue. I have a thin stiff wire bent and twisted that I use like a sewing needle to pull wires thru the holes for feeders. I've used a lightweight spackle on the edge of the foam and door to give it a smooth finish until I get to the point that I'm ready for fascia.
Try this manufacturer, these will handle a pretty heavy load and are reasonable: Knape & Vogt - KV-208BLK-500 Knape & Vogt - KV-208BLK-550 Woodworker's Wholesale Price: $8.39 each Woodworker's Wholesale Price: $9.64 each www.woodworkerswholesale.com Mike East Texas Belt
