I bought a BNSF GP-38 Proto Series Loco by Life Like. It runs fine and looks awesome, but I notice it takes longer to get speed than other Atlas and Athearn locos. For instance when my controller is on 20 mph, my other engines go at a moderate speed, and the Proto loco doesn't move until you hit about 45-50. It's not a problem unless you want to run more than one engine on the same train coupled together. Do all Proto Series Locos do this?
Yes. The proto 2000 locos have a circuit on the light board that cuts down the voltage going to motor. This can be bypassed by having the feed wires from the trucks wired directly to the motor.
This is common to the P2K. It sounds like you are using DCC. If so, all you need to do is either set a speed table up for the loco to match your other locos' performance or adjust the starting voltage, top voltage, and mid-voltage CV's. Look in the flyer that came with your decoder or the company's decoder manual for the proper CV's. David
I am not running DCC. I haven't gotten involved with that yet. I would like to, but I know nothing about it. Thanks for the help.
Try disconnecting the lights, then run thkis engine behind one or both of the others and notice if there is any speed difference when starting and running. If not, it isn't the lights making the problem. It could be dried grease, or dry bearings from the factory.
Like Watash said, could need lubrication. Listen for squeaks, squeals, or other noise. Look at the manual that came with the engine - there will be instructions for lubrication and cleaning. Go really easy with the oil. I've used a lot of different lube products since I got into the hobby back in the early 1970's - I don't know that I really have a preference for any brand. Currently I'm using Hob-E-Lube HL654 Lite Oil and Hob-E-Lube HL657 white grease. The key is to clean before applying lube, and use a toothpick to apply it very sparingly.
Slow GP-38 As Watash mentioned lubrication might help. Is the engine a new one and the others with miles on them? The locomotives with some miles on them will have been run in whereas the new locomotive will be a bit stiff until it is run in. You could use it in the trailing position in the consist. Be sure to turn it around from time to time so the gears and motor get run in equally in both directions.
Just my 2 cents. I have a p2k sd-60m. It is MUCH slower than any of the atlas or athearn engines I have. Runs really well (slow speed and such.) seems to me that the LL engines have different gearing than the rest of the big names resulting in the speed difference. Not to mention that sd-60 is probably the heaviest HO loco I've ever held with my own two hands.
Well if jeffrey-wimberly is correct, I don't think it's a technical "problem." I'll try lubricating it, thanks for the help.
It could be that the engine is just geared to run more in the prototypical speed range. Older engines tended to run way to fast, but most (Proto series included) have been designed over the years to run fairly close to the prototype in top speed. Some of my sound equipped engines - and particularly my Precision Craft N scale units - require a much higher starting voltage. This can be adjusted in DCC, but you're just like me - not ready for DCC yet. I'm not sure that the engine's start up voltage or top speed will change much after break in - mine haven't changed much in that respect - but it should run smoother and quieter after breakin.
Like I've said already, there's a circuit on the light board that cuts down the motor voltage. I also have a P2K GP38-2 and it did the very same thing. I disconected the motor leads from the motor outputs on the board and connected them to the pickup wires from the wheels. Big difference!
I want to try and do that! I don't mind the slow speed. I always try to run my trains in prototypical fashion. It's just that with this speed difference, it's impossible to run this engine with any of my other engines.
The circuit is a set of diodes to give the constant intensity lighting, so you'll lose that if you rewire. I think the circuit puts 3 diodes in the motor line, so it loses about 2 to 2.5 volts off the starting voltage. Note that the bulbs will be 1.5V, so deal with that if you rewire them like 'normal' locos (eg. use a resistor or change to 12V bulbs).
You won't have to do anything with the bulbs. They'll still get the voltage they're supposed to get. The only wires being relocated are those going to the motor. I've done this with two P2K locos and didn't have to do anything with the lights.
That's intriguing. The way I thought these things were wired would have meant moving the motor wires effectively disconnected the light circuit - so it obviously isn't like that. Do you have any schematics of how it was and/or what you did?
Don't know whether I'm lucky or experiencing something weird (like a streak of luck), but thus far I've had no trouble mu'ing P2K locos with Genesis, Atlas, Inter-Mountain or P1K. Now the Athearn RTR's seem to be a different critter (RS-3's and GP-35's). They are only happy when lashed-up together. Here's my vote for all the loco manufacturers to get together and standardize on y-voltage equals x-amount of smph.
That would be like getting their wives to all agree to wear the same dress to the same party! We clamored for the manufacturers to cooperate back in the 30's, 40's and 50's, but it is just too many countries involved.
This illustration shows the 8 pin connector of my GP38-2. This is looking down at it while it's on the light board. Correction: The legend states that red truck pickup wire is connected to number 1. Red motor lead is also connected there.
