Okay, I finally have to bite the bullet and change out the old Rapido coupler on my MDC 2-8-0 and put on an M-T. Understand that this type of stuff is, for me, at my limits of sight and finger dexterity, which is probably why several of my better locomotives are still puttering around with Rapidos instead of M-T's. A few years back when this loco was new, there were threads talking about various modifications, including changing couplers. I actually took a bunch of notes from those threads for the day when I would finally work up enough courage to cut on the locomotive. I actually still have those notes, and the three key ones seem to be: 1. body mount a M-T Z scale 905 on the tender 2. cut off the existing coupler pocket from the tender truck 3. don't unscrew the tender truck (causes internal wiring problems in the tender?) Okay, got the 905, check. Got my drill and tap set, check. Got my dremel handy, check. Don't unscrew the tender truck??? Ah, now it gets trickier. The coupler pocket on the truck seems to go back almost touching the axle. There doesn't seem like there's much room in between the axle, the wheels and the coupler pocket to get anything in to cut. Just how does one go about cutting off the coupler pocket, other than "carefully"? Can I flex the sideframes of the truck enough to pop out an axle? Other tactic? And this is on the easy end, I'm probably years away from trying to fit a working coupler into the pilot........ Thanks Ed
Ed: You have to get at the coupler pocket with some nipping pliers and gradually cut away the existing coupler and pocket. Under no circumstances should you unscrew the truck as the wiring to the truck will break off. Eventually you'll be able to remove the existing coupler. As for the front pilot, you'll need a diamond Dremel bit which can cut a coupler pocket in the metal pilot. In both cases use a MT Z scale # 905 coupler. Stay cool and run steam.......
You have to get at the coupler pocket with some some nipping pliers and gradually cut away the existing coupler and pocket. That's what I was afraid you were going to say. Thanks. I'm really glad people like you go ahead and do this type of modifications first, and then write about it for the benefit of the others like me. I wouldn't have had the slightest idea of how to go about it. Regards Ed (off to look for a suitable pair of pliers......)
When you remove the coupler from the existing truck, make sure you cut off the coupler as close as possible in order to have enough room to body mount the MT Z scale #905 coupler. BTW, cutting a coupler pocket for the #905 on the metal front pilot isn't as difficult as you think. It just takes time with a diamond Dremel bur. Stay cool and run steam......
When you remove the coupler from the existing truck, make sure you cut off the coupler as close as possible in order to have enough room to body mount the MT Z scale #905 coupler. Slowly working my way there. I have the big part (which was easier to get to) off. Now I have to figure out how to cut off the two side pieces that held the pocket, and the spring post. Maybe I'll put some kind of burr attachment on the dremel and see it I can get in there. I'm really tempted to try and spring that axle out of the side frames to get access. Something I shouldn't do? No going back now. Gulp. I can understand why a lot of people are reluctant to change out of using Rapidos. It was easy on the cars, as I swapped out for new Atlas trucks w/ Accumates. But the locomotive coupler conversions are driving me to drink. Ed (who is tempted to take up G Scale in his old age....)
Carefully use a bur in your Dremel to cut off the remaining two pieces very close to the truck. Stay cool and run steam......
It's really much easier to substitute a No. 1129 coupler in the existing truck draft gear box. I've successfully done two that way. If you have an Athearn 2-8-0 you can remove the tender truck, as MDC changed from wires to contact strips with the Mogul and Athearn uses this for both. :cat:
It's really much easier to substitute a No. 1129 coupler in the existing truck draft gear box. I've successfully done two that way. Too late, it's gone. But in any case I was having a tough time dealing with the small coupler pocket anyway. If you have an Athearn 2-8-0 you can remove the tender truck Mine is one of the old MDC ones. It's just been sitting around a long time waiting for me to get up enough courage to cut it. Thanks anyway for the info. I suspect there are others out there in a similar boat. Regards Ed
I know that Z scale couplers is the "in thing" due to the prototypical look, however I still use N scale due to the larger selection of couplers. Plus, my middle-aged eyes find the N scale couplers easier to install and easier to see when operating my railroad. The Z scale couplers were enough of a problem for me that I reverted to Rapido couplers for my Z layout. Just my two cents....
Plus, my middle-aged eyes find the N scale couplers easier to install and easier to see when operating my railroad. I hear you about the eyesight thing. But in this case the 905 is a pre-assembled coupler with pocket, so you only have to deal with screwing the draft gear box in place. So far, for me anyway, getting a skewer down between a Z scale coupler knuckle and an N scale one in order to uncouple hasn't been too much of a problem. Regards Ed
905 Morning, Over the years I've also converted my N Scale stock to the 905 body mount with much success. I've also used low profile wheels and cut down the bolsters when necessary to get to a more prototypical height on some of the our older models. The new, stronger magnets we are using make it much easier for the Z couplers mounted on N Scale Cars to work. I made sure to pull the trip pin down as far as it will go in the Knuckle and re-bend the wire a bit to get it as low as possible. They look great, and since I tend to do Steam, I only have short consists, so uncoupling seems not to be much of a problem. Good luck with the conversion, I think you'll be happy with the results. Cheers Joe MTL
You have already started, so anything that I tell you will not help for this one, but if you, or someone else will be doing another one, here follows my experiences with more than one of these. As GM correctly states, you can use the existing truck pocket and insert 1129. It will require patience, care and a magnifying lamp. I am not consistently happy with the results of this solution. I have alway been able to pivot the aft tender truck enough that it allows me to drill the hole in the lip at the aft of the tender without having to begin alteration to the truck. The reason for doing it this way is that if the body mount conversion comes to grief, you can still use the truck mount option. I did have this happen: a pin vise bit broke in the tender and I could not get it out. I did, however, successfully do the 1129 truck mount on this locomotive. Once you somplete a successful body mount, you can clip the coupler box extension from the aft tender truck. If you still have the metal plate from the MT conversion kit for the Atlas/Kato RS-3 or RS-11, you can do the clipping in the same fashion that you did the clip on the A/K model. I now use an old, beat-up and pitted pair of Xurons for this purpose. While I have used Z scales on the tender, I find that the 1015/1016 is easier to use. It does not look that clunky on the tender, although I will concede that the Z scale does look better. The pilot, however, is a 'Hoss uvva diff'rint cullah', as my uncle likes to say. I have one of these with an N scale coupler on the pilot. It looks EXTREMELY clunky. I have been happy with the results of affixing a Z scale coupler to the pilot by cutting on the Rapido box so that it will accept the Z scale coupler. I then use Walthers to glue it into the pocket. I do take care, lest the Walthers gum up the workings of the coupler. I have not been unhappy with the results of this. I have managed to pull ten cars and a caboose up a one per-cent grade with the locomotive's running tender first; the coupler showed no signs of giving. Ten cars on a one per-cent grade is the most that I have tried, I do not know if it will take more, although I do suspect that ten cars and a caboose is pushing the limits of the pulling power on this one. As has been stated, the MDC mogul and Athearn 2-8-0 do have removable tender trucks, but under NO CIRCUMSTANCES, should anyone try to remove the tender trucks from the MDC 2-8-0. TrainWorld of New York City still has these in undecorated for sixty bananas plus shipping.
You have already started, so anything that I tell you will not help for this one, but if you, or someone else will be doing another one, here follows my experiences with more than one of these. Thanks for posting your experiences. There were several threads (on different forums) when these locos first came out. But over time the threads get harder to dig out. As you say, others will be doing the same conversions as the old MDC locos are still out there (and good value at the price!). Actually, I remember you posting on this subject way back then. The recommendation on drilling before cutting off the truck mounted coupler stands out. Thanks again Ed
Okay, the good news is that I completed the coupler conversion, and it seems to work okay. Thanks for the help. It's nice not to have to run a conversion boxcar (half Rapido, half M-T) behind the loco all the time any more. While I had it flipped over in the foam cradle, I figured it was a good time to clean all the wheels. The bad news? One of the traction tires is broken. The front traction tire (on the third driver, or second blind driver) is missing a chunk, and obviously not long for this world. Any of you guys know how easy or hard it is to change out a tt on this animal? Are they even available? Should I just limp along with 3 tt's istead of 4? Thanks again Ed (steeling his courage to try and attack the pilot......)
