Using roadbed

I'm building my first layout and I'm trying to figure out how to get cork roadbed to work with 11 inch radius curves. The only way I could figure out is to use a knife to cut little pieces out every so far so if would bend to that radius. I haven't tried it yet but it seems like it would work. Is that the way to do it or is there a better way? Thanks for any help.

Joe

 

You might try soaking the roadbed in hot water before bending it. (You'll have to use glue that can secure the wet cork!)

 

What kind of glue would work for that? The base of the layout is plywood.

Joe

 

Probably not a water-soluable glue like Elmer's. Maybe one of the Liquid Nails products? I'm not sure because I've never tried to glue down wet cork.

(Actually I would rather use a water-soluable glue because it makes it easier to get up the roadbed without destroying it. Are you sure you can't bend the cork roadbed to 11" radius - it seems like you should be able to go tighter than that?)

 

did you spit it down the middle sould make bend more rich

 

Try making little cuts every half inch or so about half way through the cork road bed on the out side of the curve. This will let you bend the cork to less then a 9" radius. I glued the cork down with white elmers glue and have had no problems, even after adding ballast and other scenery items with thinned white glue.

 

Have you tried using Hot Glue for putting down your cork roadbed? It is the only method I've used for the past fifteen+ years with no problems!
And be sure to sand the top of your cork before you lay track. That is the most commen problem I've seen on many-a-layout with tracking problems. That and bad tracklaying but that's another issue

 

You should split the cork. That makes it do turns much easier. I've had luck with hot glue, liquid nails, etc. The only problem with hot glue is that it dries very quickly. If you don't get the roadbed down right away, it hardens and leaves a bump under your cork.

Liquid nails seems to work the best with putting roadbed on plywood. Woodland Scenics has a product that will allow you to glue their roadbed to foam but it's kind of pricey. Elmer's works okay but doesn't hold well in high humidity (like we get here twice a year).

It all depends on your layout.

 

Yeah, I did split the cork down the middle. I'm going to try making the cuts in the roadbed this weekend. I will also try the sanding also. I haven't got all of my cork roadbed yet. I still have some more track and roadbed to get this weekend. I can't wait till I get the track and roadbed done.
nmtexman - I know all about the high humidity. That's what we have all summer here.

Joe

 

Yep, I know all about Indianapolis. My wife's from there and I have two sons and a sister-in-law living there. Me, I prefer the arid SouthWest!

[ 10 July 2002, 21:20: Message edited by: nmtexman ]

 

I was in the southwest 2 weeks ago on vacation. It's a nice area to visit.

 

I have used both cork and the Woodland Scenics roadbed with great success. I use yellow carpenters glue to fasten it down and I hold in place with simple plastic-coated thumb-tacks until it dries. If you have enough thumbtacks you can do an entire small layout in one evening... then the next morning, simply spend about 60 seconds twisting out the thumbtacks and you're ready to go.... the exact same method works wonders for laying the track, too. There's nothing worse than seeing a nice piece of N Scale roadbed with a series of nail heads running down the middle! There are some pictures and tips on my web site if you care to check it out (should be in the signature section) - check the Lodi Junction and Pennsy on a Shelf layout, as these techniques were used on both of those. Good luck!

 

I have part of roadbed done now. Now I just need more roadbed and track. Thanks for all of the help.

Joe

 

This in response about sanding of the cork after it has been glued down. It doesn't take much of an erregulairity to upset most n-scale equipment, and no glue job is absolutly perfect , therefore a 'little' sanding is in order. Just a block of wood and some 80/100 grit sandpaper and a quick going over of the top of the cork is all that is needed (of course this cannot be done with the woodland's foam roadbed) and you should be able to see any high and low spots that might cause trouble later. This 'assumes' old fashion wood benchwork and wood/homasote subroadbed, foam substructure is a whole-nother ball-o-wax as i'm finding out.
Also it is a good way to 'ramp down' to off main tracks.