I’m looking ahead to future operations on the layout I’m just starting and, as is my policy for right now, I’m getting feedback from the members while I’m in the early stages. My questions for right now concern whether n-scale switching with magnets is the way to go or if I should just use my “Rix” uncoupling tool attached to a flashlight. I’m staying away from magnets on the mainline for sure. But I may install them in the yard. Are they “more of an art than a science” in n-scale? Is the constant attention to coupler height and coupler working and such a pain in the rear? A major concern I need clearing up concerns placing a magnet ramp before a turnout and then pushing the uncoupled cars into a siding. I know that the magnets should be on a straight piece of track - but what about the turnout into the siding following? Can the car be slightly heading into the siding while uncoupling? Can I push around corners without re-engaging the couplers and having to uncouple again? These and many more questions come to mind. I’m early on in the planning. But still – planning dictates that I consider these as I design the yard and debate how much space will be dedicated to it. One point to consider is the fact that the yard will contain an “Inglenook” type switching puzzle in it and that will be a major feature. Will the magnets be more of a pain in n-scale than they are worth? Or are they worth the effort just to keep from reaching in and across other things just to operate the switchyard. As always, any and all input concerning this topic will help a great deal if it’s related to any other style of uncoupling and operations in the yard at all. By the way, the yard will be using Peco “electro-frogs” in code 55 only whereas the majority of the layout is without doubt using Kato uni-trak. (I’m obviously talking about Micro-trains style couplers here and not Rapido or some other kind.) Thanks! MARV
Marv: I wrote a entry in my blog on Trainboard entitled "Magnetic Uncoupling Choices with Unitrack. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/blogs/viewblog.php?userid=3206&entry=453 Stay cool and run steam.....
If your couplers are truck mounted, they shouldn't be a problem with the other end of the car half way into a curve because the car doesn't swing the coupler. It can only be a problem if the couplers are body on the car. I prefer all straight after the magnet to take full advantage of the delayed action. But then you can always do without that feature if you have to or be very careful with the throttle. Kadee offers adjustment tools such as a height gauge and a special trip pin bender. They make adjustments easily. Both can be had for under $20.00.
Wow! What a difference in appearance between the rare-earth magnets and the magnet in-track section look. I'll be doing my yard in code 55 so I'll need to make allowances is material thickness to allow for those stacked one on the other (maybe foam as opposed to all plywood in that area. Still, for the cost, why not put some in even if I don't end up using them and decouple by hand? I'll try to allow for curves while considering the truck mounts on the cars vs. the body mounts on most locomotives. The short length profile of the earth magnets make it easier to build them in without allowing for 3 or 4 inches of built in track.
Marv: The rare earth magnets are the way to go and are cost effective and quite aesthetic. Stay cool and run steam.....
Powersteamguy, I have a few quick questions concerning their installation. They are mounted exactly mid track I take it. Correct? I see you have painted them as per your ballast color. Does that affect their power and function? How high in the profile of the track does the top of the top magnet come? I.e. - is the magnet level with the top of the rail or in some other relation to it? Do you have them along the mainlines at all and, if so, do they cause unscheduled uncoupling problems? I've heard a lot of concern about that problem. Thanks! MARV
Marv: The Magnets are placed in the center of the roadbed of Unitrack. I applied a light wash to the magnet tops. It has no effect on the magnet. The top of the magnet is placed very slightly below the trip pins of the cars. There is no interference with any of the trip pins of all the rolling stock. If any one trip interferes with the magnet, I manually adjust the trip pin ever so slightly.Before I glue the magnets in place, I check the clearance of trip pins on many loco's and about 50 cars. At that point I glue the magnets in position. It easier to adjust trips than reposition the magnets, I have no magnets are Kato uncoupling sections on any of the mainline track of the JJJ&E. All uncoupling magnets and Kato uncoupling sections are placed on sidings or in the switching yard of the JJJ&E. In that way, I don't experience any unwanted uncoupling's. Stay cool and run steam.....
Marv- Careful. Unitrack is not Code 55. If Code 55 has the same "snap" ends as Code 55, there is an amazingly easy way to do it. One magnet into each "snap" where the track joins another piece. Do it before you lay down and glue your track. It is easy as pie. I did it with Code 80 and it worked perfectly. There was an extensive thread here a while ago. Here is the link. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=59217&highlight=rare+earth Here is a shot of the underside of the Code 80 track. Try it with the Code 55, Theoretically, it should work the same.
Thanks guys, I need to keep reminding myself to check thoroughly through the forum posts for answers before I make you guys repeat again things that you have already addressed. It must get a little old, answering the same questions for every “newbie” on the block. But thank you for your help. It sounds like Powersteamguy’s method may be the way to go with uni-trak and Fotheringill’s method may be the way to go for the code 55 in the yards. I’ve got a little experimenting to do before I install any magnets permanently on the layout. I know one thing for sure. I wont be having any 3” chunks of magnet between the tracks anywhere on the layout thanks to your wise council. It pays to plan ahead. By the way, Peco-code 55 is actually code 80 track cleverly imbedded in the plastic for a better (code 55) profile. What works for code 80 should work for Peco-code 55 as well. It even hooks up nicely to uni-trak once the roadbed is raised to the proper level to install joiners between the two.
I use bamboo skewers for a pick to uncouple anywhere on the layout without the issue of magnet location. (All of my track is within easy reach.) I use the delayed action of the MT couplers by just setting them for the delay with the pick. It may take a little practice, but it is very easy to do; I don't need a flashlight. You could practice the pick method for a while before you invest in magnets.
Flash, I have a few Rix picks for use on the mainline. I wouldn’t put magnets on the mainline for anything. I may put a few magnets on really straight industry sidings – but not on the mainline itself. The Rix picks work great – with or without a flashlight. I’ve used them before. They work like your skewers but with a specially shaped end to them. My yard doesn’t have enough turnouts to make the magnet’s price a big factor. If they give me trouble, I can always use the pick method. I’d like to not reach into the yard too much (or certainly to allow the grandkids to do so) – hence the desire for magnets. Also, I have an Iglenook switching puzzle incorporated with power turnouts planned and I’d like to have it as hands free as I can - for the kids mostly. The end of my yard is at an odd angle and a little bit of a reach (especially for grandkids). Therefore the desire for hands free operation. If it was just me, I might reach in. But it’s those clumsy (but lovable) kids I’m concerned about. Again, though, the magnets wont break the bank and they look good compared to the big ones. So I’ll install them even if they were to quit working for me in the future.
I have yet to read the other thread that is posted here or the rest of this thread. So I am sorry for repeating if this question if it has been asked already. Does it matter what pole of the magnet is up? Also in the two magnet configuration shown in this picture, is one pole up and the other down like North - South or should it be like North - North facing up for the double magnet idea? Also what kind of glue was used? Thanks, Mr X
Mr. X- I have not noticed a difference. If there is one, either I made them all correctly or all incorrectly. Either way I uncouple without drilling holes or alignments according to the stars since they snap right into the ends of the tracks. That being said, I will be following PSG's method on my expansion since I will be going to Unitrack.
Mr. X: There is no difference in the way you mount the magnets in regards to "poles". There is no indication on the individual magnet whether one end is north or south. Both "poles" have been affected by global warming however.:teeth: Stay cool and run steam....
I could not overly tell from the 'double magnet' picture. Are the magnets even with the bottom of the track, or does there need to be some sort of hole or depression put in the roadbed? (Cork in my case) I believe I know which magnets from Radio Shack you used. Were there any additonal modifications neccesary for the track or were they small enough to fit right in the spaces of code 80? The single magnet on top versus double magnet on bottom method. Any draw backs or benefits to using one or the other? I realize that having them up top would to lend themselves to moved more easily in the future. But then again having them on the bottom looks more realistic and you probably do not see them as much or at all. Thoughts? In regards to the top method - did you use regular contact cement or something else to keep them in place? Thanks, did not mean to take us on a side tangent but mostly I think it is relevant. Mr X P.S. I believe I may have found a cheaper source than Radio Shack for this type of magnet. (***Although I am not sure if it is exactly the same type or metal used. I am also not completly sure if they would work or not.***) I have never purchased from this vendor before nor am I affiliated with them in any way. The prices and the quantities seemed be much more resonable than the listed competitor. Package of 100 1/8" x 1/16" for about US $9.00. http://www.amazingmagnets.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=25595 I should have purchased some of them before there is a run on them!!!
Quite a timely bit of info for me also. I'm in the layout planning phase for a small Unitrack layout, and the last few nights I've been pondering the mysteries of magnetic uncouplers. After reviewing the blog entry, a question came to mind. Are the magnets somehow affixed to something under the Unitrack roadbed, before the final laying the track, or are they just glued to what ever the track is sitting on (in my case blue or pink foam) after the track has been fastened in place? Thanks again!
Zandoz: The Unitrack in the switching yard was in place long before the magnets were inserted. There is foam under the Unitrack. The final position of the first magnet DOES NOT rest on the foam. Use a 13/64" bit in a dremel and drill a hole in the roadbed at the centerpoint. The magnet is 13/64" in diameter and seats in the roadbed opening you've just made. I glued the first magnet in place in the roadbed and then glued the second one on top of the first. You must first test the height of the magnets with several loco's and cars to make sure the trip pins don't hit the magnets. Then glue them in position. Stay cool and run steam.....
The height of both magnets sit just below the trip pins of loco's and rolling stock. You have to test your equipment over the magnets to determine the proper height of the magnets, I used CA cement to cement the magnets in place, once the proper height is determined. Stay cool and run steam.....
On the Code 80, they just snap right in. Not doubles, either. Just single magnets each. No glue needed, no digging, no gouging, no drilling. Once ballasted, they aren't going to move one little bit.
