Air brush recomendations

train1 Jun 12, 2006

  1. train1

    train1 TrainBoard Supporter

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    Let's say I was from outer space :rolleyes: - (kinda like what my wife thinks, but that's another thread) - and I was looking to jump in to airbrushing.

    How easy is it to learn ?
    What's the easiest and most durable (as this will be a one time purchase) air brush unit and compresser.
    Recommendations ?
     
  2. milw156

    milw156 TrainBoard Member

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    I use a Paasche single-action external mix. I have in the past used Badger and Aztec with disappointing results, not necessarily in how the models turned out, but with the trouble when cleaning, replacing tips, etc.

    Any compressor will work provided you have a regulator for any that go above 30 PSI. I only use solvent-based (Accupaint, Floquil, Scalecoat II) so I use a slightly higher pressure - about 32. I don't use the water-based paints but I've heard it's a much lower PSI than that.

    I'm actually in the market for a smaller compressor - my current one is a 4HP 15 gallon Campbell Hausfeld that scares the hell out of me everytime it recharges. :teeth:

    If anyone can recommend a silent/quiet one that's fairly economical (under $200) that would be much appreciated.
     
  3. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    I have used a Badger 150 for about 15 years. Being a double-acting brush it takes time to clean up after a shoot, but I accept that for the tight pattern control it provides. I spray Floquil at about 10 PSI which gives an even smooth cover. Also, 10 PSI allows me to add highlights and grimy areas carefully that I can control without overspray.

    I have a tiny "Speedy" hobby compressor to which I added an accumulator tank made out of two 4" PVC caps glued face-to-face over a 2"-3" piece of 4" PVC pipe. The caps were drilled and tapped for 1/4" pipe thread and plumbed to the compressor at one end and to the airbrush hose at the other. It gives a smooth consistant air flow, and works fine for my use.
     
  4. siggie masta

    siggie masta <font color="#800080">TrainBoard Graphic Artist</f

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    i learned airbrushing on my own and it is not that difficult to pick up. i use a paashce double action millenium airbrush, and it rocks, i have multiple needles for it to...if you aask me that is essential! once you maust the basics of the double action, you will have no problems. test your skills by making what i call porpupine quills...pull your action back all the way open and move left to right and you move release the action untill you get a real fine line and pull away. do that till you get sick of it, and then do it some more. when you get that down everything else that is free hand should be easy. also you might want to make test circle till you get perfect ones every time, ie constant consistant color. and lastly shading, make a cirlce cutout in cardboard and shade it till you get it right with black paint. as for my compressor...i use the bostech compressor that came with my nail guns! i just attached a 3 stage filter regulator to it. filtering is key in airbrushing, you will get a much cleaner consistant coat of paint that will have very little blemishes in it. It may not be as important in brushing model railroading stuff but i, brush motocycles, helmets, and other cool stuff. once you have these basics down the sky is the limit! Hope that helped you out buddy!

    Jake
     
  5. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    See my post at http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=77908 on painting an N scale locomotive. It is covered with acrylics but it may help with some questions you have. I have used the Aztek A470 model for years, years before coming to work for Testor. I'm lazy, so I hate cleaning. I have one of those cleaning stations that Aztek makes at my booth. When I'm done, I dump out the excess paint, pour water into the color cup, attach the airbrush to the cleaning station, pull the trigger and that is about it. I fill the color cup three to four times with water and use a small brush to swirl away the paint in the cup. That cleaning station BTW works for all airbrushes too.
     
  6. Bernard

    Bernard TrainBoard Member

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    As everyone on the thread has suggested it just takes practice, I have an Iwata eclipse. It's a double action airbrush to me it's like a favorite pen, I like the feel of it in my hand and for me it's easy to control. You will also find that airbrushes can be bottom, top or side feeds for the paint. Oh and tell your wife that nail salons use airbrushes to do fancy nail designs with stencils.
     
  7. Caddy58

    Caddy58 TrainBoard Member

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    I use a Badger 150 double-action and a Home-depot style compressor. I have fitted a moisture trap and pressure regulator to the compressor.

    I started with acrylics but moved to solvent based paints as I became more experienced. Acrylics tend to clog the fine tip of my brush, solvent type paints allow for much longer paint-session without disassembly of the brush.

    I strongly recommend to also investing a spray booth or cabinet, irrespecitvely if you work with acrylics or solvents. It is important to keep overspray away from yourt lungs (and the model surface). I have built my own spray cabinet, using 2 12 volt Volkswagen blowers as engines. They create a huge draft which is vented outside through plumbing pipes. Total cost was around $20 :)

    Cheers
    Dirk
     
  8. Fotheringill

    Fotheringill TrainBoard Member

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    I started with the metal Aztec and acrylic paints. I found it prone to clogging easily. I was about to stick with chalks when I picked up a Badger 150 and have been a happy boy. If you are using a fine tip and commercially made acrylic paints from Testors and others, there is little or no thinning needed. If you are mixing your own Liquitex colors, you need to get the absolutely right consistency to avoid clogs. This can be done with airbrush medium and a little water.

    As to compressors- get a two gallon model and get the quietest one available. Make sure it has a regulator and a moisture trap (or add them). I found the perfect one at Target. HD, Lowes and WalMart were all too noisy.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. milw156

    milw156 TrainBoard Member

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    Has anyone seen the compressors they have at Harbor Freight Tools? They have a 30psi airbrush compressor (no tank) for $50, and a 40psi version w/regulator for $80.
     
  10. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I have a Badger M150, and Paasche VL. I love both. I also have the Aztek cleaning station--slickest thing for airbrushes since sliced bread! I also have a cheapo 2 Gal. compressor, with a quick connect-equipped regulator/moisture trap combo that my braided airline is connected to. My booth is homebrew, and works great!
    Dangit, I gotta get pics!
     
  11. engineshop

    engineshop Resigned From Forum

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    I got a Badger 150 and a $89 Sears compressor.
    To avoid clogged airbrush guns, I used painter strainer mesh pieces when I fill up the airbrush paint bottle. I also mix the paint in a seperate bottle since I experienced some clogging while mixing the Polly S paint with thinner.
    I buy the strainer at a regular paint store (for 1 gallon can) and cut it in small pieces. One mesh for around $2 gives me about 30 -40 pieces.
     
  12. moose

    moose TrainBoard Member

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    I picked up the 30psi version last winter on sale for 25 bucks. Haven't used it yet though. :sad:

     
  13. Kisatchie

    Kisatchie TrainBoard Member

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    Before hurricane Katrina, I had 3 Paasche VL airbrushes - one for Floquil solvent paints, one for Scalecoat II paint, and one for other brands of solvent based paints.

    The VL is the best airbrush I've ever used. It's a double-action internal-mix, and it's solid, built like a tank, and is pretty easy to clean.

    I can't help you with compressors since I used 15 lb CO2 tanks. They have what I consider some important advantages over compressors:

    1) they're whisper quiet.
    2) use anywhere - no electricity needed.
    3) they take up hardly any floor space - about 8" by 8".
    4) the CO2 is pure, so there is no moisture to condense in your paint and ruin your paint jobs.
    5) a fully charged 15 pound tank will let you do about 1000 N scale cars (if you paint in batches of 10 cars at a time). Refill at a welding supply house for under $10.
     
  14. loco1999

    loco1999 TrainBoard Supporter

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    I have a Badger 155 Anthem.
    It's nice and all metal.
    Not to expensive.
    Designed for acrylics?

    I had a power tool compressor already,
    but it was a loud time killer, fill big tank...
    I bought a small Pasche without a tank
    and it is quiet with steady pressure.

    I painted #3082 with it.

    [​IMG]

    :)
     
  15. train1

    train1 TrainBoard Supporter

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    As usual - lots of varied answers and personal tastes. And great examples too.
    I am going to ponder these answers and do a little research. Unfortunately we don't have target stores here in my neck of the woods.
    Perhaps a roadtrip is in order.
    Once again , thanks to all
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 15, 2006
  16. Mike Sheridan

    Mike Sheridan TrainBoard Member

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    I use an Aztec brush. Also have the cleaning station for it.

    I use a SIL-AIR 15A - Auto compressor.
    It has automatic stop-start on pressure, it's very quiet, and has regulator, gauge, safety valve and water trap/reservoir all built into a compact metal case (footprint about 18"x6"). I can just turn it on and forget it's there.
    Not cheap (about £260 in the UK), but it proves the thing about buying good tools :teeth:
     
  17. GregK

    GregK TrainBoard Member

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    If you go this route, make sure you get a regulator and moisture trap. Nothing like wet air to ruin a good paint job.

    I have a Badger Cyclone II that works pretty good. Kind of noisy, but it cuts off after letting up on the trigger.
     

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