My SD40T-2 Modifications (Pics!)

...this are the parts you need to do your own ditchlights - and a very thin soldering iron as well



I'll try to bring you a how to when I'm in work with my next engines...

 

Steve, What's the penny for?

Just kidding!

I think the next size up of white LED fits the back of the ditchlight castings real close. The ones you show are really small! What do you use to attatch them to the casting?

 

Is Richmond Controls the only place to get these LEDs or is their another source?

 

Nick, Try these links.
http://www.ngineering.com/

http://www.n-scale-model-railroad.alain-pelletier.com/

 

or try this eBay seller for price reference, I have mine from this seller...

http://cgi6.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=ledbaron&completed=0&sort=3&since=-1

 

Scott and Steve, Thanks!

 

Crikey Steve,you bro's still use 1 cent pieces over there?

Cant wait to see your "how-to"

 

Thanks Scott - and now for the dumb question. How do you drill the hole? Do you use a Dremel? That seems pretty risky. . . or do you have a different tool that you use. Like I said, locomotive detailing is a new area for me.

Thanks

 

Use a normal cake of soap for lube when drilling white metal,stops drill bit from binding.
As for drilling,prolly better off just using a pin vice & doing it by hand,better control.

 

Jase, that's a Euro cent, as in European currency. The diameter is 16.2mm so the SMT LED's are bleedin' small!

 

DOH lol,thought Steve being from the "land of the long white cloud" (NZ) ,it should be a NZ 1 cent.Thought the world had done away with 1 cent pieces hehe.
How those damn fine B units coming along Gary?

 

Jason...
...from Aotearoa you mean unfortunately not now, I'm in the process of immigration to NZ but this is a long, very long story (and I hope it's not a never ending story...)
so you mate are from the west island, right ?

 

Dave-

Actually, I did not drill any holes in the rear light housing on this unit. It just has some MV lenses installed in the casting. The Richmond Controls module only has forward lighting only, so there was no need to drill through. When I do drill holes in castings or shells, I use a pin vise and drill by hand (not by powered drill). This allows for more control and reduces the chance of a catastrophic bind of some type.

Russ

 

LMAO Steve,haven't heard that one for along long time.When can we see your "how-to"?