I've got a nice little piece of layout going along a wall of my bedroom that consists of mostly just benchwork and the beginning of the mainline on the subroadbed. Further benchwork construction has more or less halted because of time constraints, so I figured I'd begin scenicking the existing layout. Traditionally, I just use 1/4" wire screen and coat it with plaster; but my dad doesn't reccomend we use it again because it is quite messy and drys to fast for a comfortable working pace--and its really heavy. I still plan on using the wire screen for forming, but has anybody tried anything else that was different? Whats the scoop on Hydrocal?(I hear it's about the same thing as concrete, and you just about need a chainsaw to modify anything)...or that Woodland Scenics plaster cloth? I'd like to hear some more creative ideas--some proven ones--maybe a more light-weight way to use plaster; we even once put wet newspaper strips over our form and then sprinkled the dry plaster over it! Seems like kind of a dead topic--mountain making--but if anybody's tried something new or different... Thanks a bunch!! Derek
I'm just starting using the Bragdon method-they have LOTS of good directions on the internet at: www.bragdonent.com Basic idea is using self expanding foam [you can get it cheaper locally through fiberglass repair/supply house]-it expands 30 to 40 times original volumn when combined in layers with window screen and plastic wrap to give it quite a bit of strength for scenery. Used to be somthing called "mountains in minutes", but this process combines extra material to strengthen the material. At least read about it-it's VERY light, shapeable and strong. I will start making some tomorrow and give a report on how it does in real life. This Bragdon makes layouts professionally with this stuff-my friend has seen his work at trainshows and was very impressed. I'm into lightweight building-am using metal studs for framework with very good results. Curt
I have heard people talk about dipping newspaper or papertowels in the plaster, then lay them over the screen and paint it when you are done. Should be as light as paper meche'and a little stronger with the wire. Don't know though, never done it like this. Also there are pretreated gauze that you dip in water and drape over the wire, or you can dip gauze in plaster and it will do the same thing. Again, I haven't tried this, but this is what the Kalmbach books suggest.
It all works. Just remember to lay a tarp down on the floor under your work space, because water and sticky stuff WILL fall or tip over and spill. No matter how careful you are, when you least expect it, a little water will finally gather and run down your mountain side just like a real stream, and into your shoe.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Derek: Whats the scoop on Hydrocal?(I hear it's about the same thing as concrete, and you just about need a chainsaw to modify anything) <hr></blockquote> It's strong but it's not that strong. The big advantage of Hydrocal is that it easily supports it's own weight. There is now need for a chicken wire frame. I have used Hydrocal shell (paper towel over crumpled newspaper/masking tape) and have modified sections without the need for power tools. A small hacksaw cuts right throught the stuff. It does not however take paint very well. A thin layer of plain old plaster will take care of that without adding much weight.
Thanks for all of the tips, of course, but my dad suggested something way different. He's a contractor--and we're kind of building our house by ourselves as we live in it. (Hence my built-for-railroad bedroom with even a loft so the bed is out of the way!)...so we have a lot of leftovers from sheetrock-ing the house; including a bunch of drywall taping compound type stuff. We haven't tried it yet--but it has about the same consistency as plaster, but it takes a couple of hours to dry and can be used straight out of the package. It is also softer and easier to modify/carve after it sets. Unfortunately, it can't be applied too thickly(as for rock outcroppings/molds) because it'll crack when it sets. It must be able to take paint, though, because it's always used on household walls. After I mess with it I'll write an update. Thanks! Derek
One caution on using plaster and drywall compound, if moved or pushed, it will crack showing its glaring white color through your weathered stone walls. My past layouts with plaster seemed to always suffer from "white line" desease until I could repaint the areas. I have seen the demonstrations by the people from http://www.bragdonent.com and I'm planning to do all of my detail work (over my blue styrofoam build ups)with their products. Recommend you check out this info before deciding.
My experience is with hydrocal and using strips of paper dipped in hydrocal and placed on crumpled up newspaper. Then place a light layer of the hydrocal over the newspapaer. Works very well. Rock out croppings are made by rolling up small pieces of newspaper. When done you can pull the newspaper out and leave the shell. For "painting" I mixed clothing dye (greens and browns) with water and sprayed from a spray bottle and then sprinkled dry dye on it after it dried a little bit. One problem was if it chips, you end up with a white spot. Found the solution to be mixing some dye into the hydrocal so chips reveal the same color.
You can mix dry powder pigments into small batches of plaster and drywall compound. When a crack does appear, the color is all the way through, so doesn't show so baddly.
