separating paints

I'll be painting undec locos and rolling stock, plus a few structures, in my layout's two-color scheme. Having never done this before, I need to know how to prevent the colors from bleeding into each other and peeling when tape is removed. What type of tape to use? I'll use acrylic paint applied with a brush (I don't own an airbrush; limited budget with funds going for layout-building needs).

As usual, this newbie appreciates your help.

John Adney
Marion, Iowa

 

I use regular ol' 3M masking tape. I always cut a fresh edge with a straight edge and sharp xacto to make sure there is a good clean line.

After applying the masking - be sure to burnish the edge of the tape (press it down with the handle of your knife) to ensure good contact.

I have not been successful myself with masking and brush painting. Seems the paint is more likely to find it's way under the tape - but I haven’t tried in a long time. You might want to check out some of the entry level single action airbrushes. They are not very expensive, and you can get started with the cans of air - of course you will probably want a compressor soon after you get the hang of airbrushing....

 

I also believe that an entry level air brush would be 100 times better than hand brushing. I have not seen a good method yet to successfully mask, using wet coats of paint brushed on. Unless you have hands as steady as a brain surgeon's and can free hand lines, you should seriously consider buying a cheap air brush. Mmmm-humm.......

 

If you 're only going to paint a very small number of models, you might consider using model paints in small spray cans. Spray cans are a little more expensive than bottles, but in the long run you won't have a spray gun just sitting on the shelf and bottles going dry. Spray cans don't have the range of colors that are offered in bottles, but a good hobby shop should have a wide enough selection to get you going.

I started with spray cans, but then realized that I enjoyed painting models and wasn't all that bad at it. So I bought a used airbrush and a small hobby compresser, and am having a blast.

[ 29. August 2002, 14:00: Message edited by: Hank Coolidge ]

 

Airbrushes are not hard to use. If I can do it about anyone can. hehehehe I tried Acrylics for the first time a couple months ago and was very satisfied with the results. They can be thinned with distilled water and cleand up is very easy, but you have to clean the gun up very very good or you will have problems with it the next time you used it.

 

A.) Agreed with above responses. USE an airbrush. Spray a small amount of paint over the masking tape edge and allow it to dry somewhat which creates another "seal".

B.) PRACTICE. Whatever method you use.. .practice on scrap plastic or the Mrs's good china to get practice in. Dont practice on that $84.95 Intermountain shell or worse, $1200 Brass Hudson you waited months to obtain.

C.) If you really must use a paintbrush... the best "chance" is to use the same techniques used in scenery and weathering. DRY brush small amounts of paint along the edge of the masking tape, and let it dry. Build up the layer at the masking edge using this technique. Brushing on gobs of wet paint along any masking medium is begging for runs. Just like Liquid Welding glue... "capillary" action will take place and the paint will be sucked under the masking tape, ruining everything.

Last.. but not least... PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.!!!!!!

-Kitbash

[ 04. September 2002, 11:39: Message edited by: Kitbash ]

 

I agree with all the above and especially Kitbash. An inexpensive airbrush will return 100 fold its value. I can't hand paint without getting brush lines. Air brushing looks so much more realistic. I have'nt painted any locos or rolling stock but my structures are all airbrushed and they look amazing ( and I'm just a beginner). My suggestion, sell your grand mother and buy the airbrush!

 

what about those airbrush kits i've seen that run off of a can of compressed air (seen testor's ones with models in walmart)????

 

Hi Beast,

I use the same kind of airbrush. The cans of air are about $7 bucks but I've only used up one so I'd say they last a fair amount of time. Nothing fancy about my airgun. But it works great!

 

While "regular" masking tape is really OK (especially if you create a new edge before using) -- I'd like to mention a relatively new product from 3M, Their #471 thin plastic masking tape. This is a thin blue tape with special adhesive for masking. It conforms to detail much better than masking tape and seems to have a better seal in general -- but it comes off easily/well. I got some from Micro-Mart (see their ad's in any railroad mag).
It's generally a good idea, especially when masking over an existing color, to take some of the "sticky-ness" from the tape by first attaching it to a sheet of clean glass (or similar non-porous material). After applying and burnishing, and then actually painting; remove the masking as soon as possible, by folding the end over and pulling along the axis of the tape-- that is, don't lift the tape out from the painted shell, it will crack and lift the "under" paint -- Pull the tape against itself so the adhesive is being pulled not out from the shell, but rather along the shell.

When you mask over an existing color (by the way, remember to do the lighter colors first), it is helpful to spray a thin coat of the "under" color along the tape -- that way if there is any capillary action wicking paint under the tape, the paint wicked is the same color.

I'll add my encouragement for the purchase of any air brush -- if you're doing more than one - it's worth it. I'll repeat the caveat -- if you're using acrylic paint, clean up quickly and throughly.

 

OK. I'll look for an airbrush, but it'll have to be cheap. What are good brands; where can they be purchased (the local hobby shops don't have them)?

 

Hobby shops don't tend to stock full airbrush ranges but the Paasche model H is usually available. It's not the cheapest (about 30.00) but I would suggest it is the 'best value' out there. I purchased one when I was 16 and still have it (18 years later) and still use it.

The sets that come with compressed cans of air are a great way to get started. You will eventually want a compressor - but go ahead and start with the cans. They are also available seperatly

A great on-line retailer of Airbrushes is Dixie Art out of New Orleans. http://www.dixieart.com - I've ordered from them and recommend them.

Here is a link to the budget badger sets - starting at $19 for a 'spray gun' with a can of air - (model 250) - but I would suggest spending a few extra dollars and getting the 350 set with air ($36) because it is a more versitile 'true' air brush - and shares the same basic design as the Paasche H I mentioned before.

http://www.dixieart.com/BadgCraft.html

That said - you will get better results with the spray gun than you can get with a paint brush.