Yes, good weathering on those two bays in the front. I like this Santa Fe. The weathering is not so severe:
MR has a "basic painting and weathering" how to book. one thing I haven't seen mentioned here is interesting.. pg 55 shows a proto pic of a hopper with three different color hatches. gray colored hopper, with 2 gray hatches, one green, and one white!! after weathering the car, just paint a new coat/color of paint on a hatch.. it's recently been replaced. with no thought given to matching colors.. the older the car (and weathered heavier) the more unique this little tip will stand out
These are hoppers I've got from my friend Nico. He has weathered them with his airbrush and some chalk.
Paul- As to the trucks and wheels, I used acrylic paints and a VERY small brush. No dullcote needed, I think. I would guess you would want a gloss black on the journal boxes. I alos don't Dullocte my chalks. It is not Holy Scripture to do so. Just don't handle them on the sides.
A DM&E Grain car that has been weathered by chalks and dullcoated. A BN I weathered. Some roof details on the BN. Two grain cars I weathered on the end of a local frieght.
Question: What is the "weathering" on the prototype? Rust form rain? Dust from the road? Dripping from the product? Yes, the weathered cars look more "real" or "earthy" but what is it? Thanks!
Great work, Flash! Is there any tutorials on the net about weathering with acrylics? I tried to weather a few cars with chalk, and though I'm not too able, I've got ideas how to use it. With acrylics though, I don't have any guesses, where should i start...:tb-confused: Thanks!
levi: Tom Mann is where I would start. The download may be a pdf file. Here is a good website, too. There are lots of others. The How To forum has links, too.
I have a 2oz can of paint thinner that I clean my brushes in, eventually with the colors I use(probably the default color of dirty thinner anyway) it gets brown. I then use it as a brushed on rust wash on most anything from trucks to track. Color varies of course but so does the real thing. Stock from some areas may see alot of corrosion, while others see more dust. Sometimes the trucks are almost black and greasy, other times bright rust colored. At a local train show last year we saw a modeler who was using real rust to weather items. He had a tackle box full of chips, shavings, filings, etc. He'd sprinkle it on and dullcoat over it, and in some cases he'd sprinkle larger pieces on and then wet them repeatedly over several weeks letting the rust streak and pit on the weathered items. I thought that the rust being higher than the paint wouldn't look good, but when you actually look at rusted metals, they expand as the layers rust and separate... I was amazed at the results. One thing I've noticed on some real freight cars is streaks of grease and dirt sprayed up off the wheels on the ends of some cars like container well cars or tankers. They are pretty narrow and I haven't figured out how to duplicate them yet. Looking at the real thing is the best way. White paint likes to "run" from lettering. Grating will typically rust more and worse than the rest of a car. Grain hoppers will often have bird poop on the tops, as spilled grain is an easy feast for them...
