made me a glue mixing machine. keeps my glue water mixed up . i added a bit of green because i dip my trees in this then set them out to dry. printed a paddle an attached to the motor an wambam i got a mixer
Stopped at The Train Shack in Burbank yesterday. Picked up a couple of ConCor semi's for the city area, a couple of well cars and some other stuff. The guys that run the place are really great!
Well the newest brass loco is in service pulling the Turtle Creek mail and express. This is the one with the steam generator. Behind number 52 is an express box followed by a express baggage and mail storage car. Next up is the 34 foot RPO followed by another main storage car with yet another 34 foot RPO. Teh rear is brought up by a crew coach and the end car is a passenger coach. In total a 7 car consist. The blue postal storage and the blue RPO are heavily modified Bandai 34 foot cars. The yellow cars are 34 foot Overtons, Mail hooks were formed out of wire since I could not find the commercial made stainless steel ones. 100_0013-1 by John Moore posted Aug 20, 2023 at 5:12 PM
Is that a gear motor, or do you run the motor at a low enough voltage to avoid frothing the glue water?
Adding DCC light boards and power caps to replace the incandescent lighting in the Rheingold set I got a few weeks ago.
Andy i run the motor at low volt , its not a gear motor. . i try to get it as low spinning as i can so as to not froth the mix.. i turn it on an hr before i need it that way its all mixed up and the glue that settles on the bottom gets mixed well. i got the motor from some kids toy. if i find electronic kids toy for cheap or free i take them. most are broken and dont work but the electronics and other stuff are still good(switches ect )
As it sits this morning: finally got around to painting some all terrain cranes I printed early this year, a HEMTT will get into the paint queue eventually (in this case an 1120A4 with enhanced container handling unit already painted elsewhere), two 40m wind turbine blades, a quartet of GSH90 flatcars (in the paint queue very soon) and a work in progress Ross forklift.
I'm trying out these new hatchet style couplers for my Vien to Cannes Orient Express. So far things looking good. Coupling is reliable and almost impossible to separate without a magnet from above or a bump from underneath to push up the trip levers. One possible downside is that they don't couple well if at all on curves but not a problem for what I do. Very simple to assemble and much less obtrusive in the looks/size department than the rapidos that originally came with the cars. Still a bit of a gap between the diaphragms but no worse than with the original couplers.
Well, late last night I was able to modify a 3D Hoosac Caboose as the box for a Galloping Goose style railcar I have been Jonesing for for a while. Working out the spacing and length for the front half bus. Wish me luck. Will post pics soon.
Hi Sumner The speaker for the F7A/B is a 9x16mm unit. I got the speaker and cabinet from SBS4DCC- "SBS4DCC "Sugar Cube" Speaker 9x16mm 8 ohm .7 watt w/ N Cab Roof Sound Chamber". Sounds great- quite loud, just needs a bit of tuning inside the cabs and reducing the height of the curved shell. For the P42 I used a rectangular box, with a bit more extensive modifications- CA glued the speaker to the cabinet after sanding, cut the bronze strips from the rear truck, soldered wires from the rear truck connections to the ends of the bronze strips just past the end of the WVD board, removed one of the gray spacers from the rear area, cut the spring connections on the speaker, soldered wires to the nubs, ran them to the WVD board connections, tilted the speaker+cabinet just a bit to clear the inside of the shell. Oh, I also added some small solder bumps to the WVD board power contact areas to ensure a connection to the bronze strips. I bought a bunch of 9x16mm speakers from Digikey- 3253-OWS-091630LA-88-ND, and some 12x17mm 3949-OWS-121733TA-8-ND, and some 11x15mm 3253-OWS-111535TA-8A-ND. Figured I would print custom speaker shells, but you may have read that my Anycubic resin printer was DOA. So, the new projects are a bit delayed...
Hello Group, I've been making some modifications to my Atlas MP15DC to try and give it a more Pittsburgh & Lake Erie railroad like appearance. The Atlas model matches it's Reading Railroad prototype very well and the P&LE MP15DC's share a lot of the same spotting features as the Reading MP15DC except, The P&LE MP15DC's do not have side sill mounted handrails. With some 0.015" brass wire handy, I set out to improve the appearance of the model and I'm going to say at this point, my goal has been reached. The model is not perfect, but now to my eye it captures the look of the P&LE MP15DC locomotives. And the Prototype
I kinda like that look! Reminiscent of the hand rails on the sides of the boilers on steam locomotives. Of course, steamers' boilers were wider, and their walkways were too narrow for railings anyway. But I can see why most RRs went with the outer railings on the narrower diesels, with wider walkways. I know which one I'd rather have if I were a crewman in icy weather!
I'm getting this JNR C62 updated with sound. And received electronics to finish up the lighting for my Reichsbahn and Orient express train cars. The card with decoders are a new brand I am trying (Trainomatic) that are function only which plug in to the existing light boards of the Orient express cars. This way I can control the lighting through the command station. I was looking for a small function only decoder that was/is better priced than the brands currently out there like ESU/ZIMO?TCS etc. These were only available overseas but even after conversion they are only about $16 a piece. Shipping from the UK was pretty reasonable and unexpectedly prompt lol. The best priced light decoders are NCE which I've used all over my layout but the size is just a little too big for most of my N scale passenger cars. I've already installed one of the decoders to test which functions as expected and comes with support for power reserve. Thing is the power reserve contacts on the decoder are rated at track voltage (unlike the ESU which regulate to 3.5VDC) and getting enough capacitance at 16 - 25VDC may be a bit of a challenge given the space restrictions in my cars. I still really prefer the ESU DCC light boards since they support that low voltage super cap where altogether one is still under $30 per car and I can get over 15 seconds or more of lighting reserve per car with that setup. In the case of the orient cars I wanted to stay with the factory equipment especially since the LED placement on the boards are customized for each car's distinct layout. Thus far to get any thing resembling flicker-free I've had to gang up 4 220uF tantalum caps rated at 25V per the decoder recommendations but room is an issue keeping everything above the light board as I have to clear it's components like the surface mounted resistors as there is only 2mm of clearance between the PCB and the roof of the car shell. Basically I only have room for 2 maybe 3 of these caps. They make 16V 440 uF caps that are the same size as the ones pictured below which I'm thinking of trying. I run my track around 14V and can run a 15V zener across the cap array power leads for circuit protection but more $$ and stuff like that. Any suggestions from the members here are welcome.
I have been busy this weekend. I built another storage/transportation container for my modules. This time it’s for my 4 new corners. This box is a slightly different design over the first one, building on what I liked and disliked. This version works well, now we see how it works at shows.
Okay, question here because I am thinking about a tiny engine for the kids to smile at. This says 3V, does that mean it will not work using a regular controller? Tsugawa Yokou 14096 Super Mini Size Motorized Chassis TU-KOPPEL C (5mm Wheel/Simple Rod) (N scale)
