Union Pacific's N Scale Canyon Division....

Sumner May 6, 2022

  1. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

    3,259
    6,173
    70
    Maybe you covered this before, but are the 4 power supplies' negative/return outputs grounded or tied together?
     
    BNSF FAN likes this.
  2. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Yes, via ....

    [​IMG]

    ... the yellow wire that goes from one booster to the other. The ground lugs on the boosters are tied to the negative inputs from the power supplies. You can see the yellow wire going across the panel right in the middle. Also visible barely is the ground lug on the left booster that it is going to. Also the yellow wire continues on to the terminal block (top right) where the DCC input comes from the DCC-EX Command Station.

    I'm using a 16 gauge length of extension cord for the run from the command station on the test track and using the ground wire that is in it to attached to the terminal block and on to the yellow ground wire (it wasn't connected above when the picture was taken). At the command station end the ground connects to the command station's ground. That ground is connect to the two power supply's negative inputs also. So all 6 power supplies are grounded through their negative outputs.

    Thanks for asking. A couple days ago I wasn't sure as the Tam Valley instructions said this might be needed in some cases so researched it and came up with the above which I'm thinking is right. So far things are working fine.

    Sumner
     
  3. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Boosters & Circuit Breakers Pt. 3...

    This is the page/part of the build I've been looking on as I finally have DCC power to the hidden staging area where I have the cork down but wanted to wait on laying track until I could also test it with a few different locos as it went down.

    In review there are going to be 8 power districts on the layout. 4 boosters with 2 circuit breakers on each one. 4 12v/5 amp power supplies. One for each booster. I had some time back bought two 'brick' style Tam Valley power supplies for about $15 through a distributor but needed two more power supplies. I ordered the two generic power supplies shown in the next image and wired them up.

    [​IMG]

    In hind sight I should of bought two more of the Tam Valley 'brick' style power supplies like the other two I had ( HERE ). I probably only saved a dollar or so going with these supplies and had an hour into wiring them.

    [​IMG]

    These are nice little power supplies though and I have another 12v one with higher amperage and a couple 5v ones I will use for the servos and LEDs. They are easy to find and you can adjust the voltage on them over about a 10% range. I adjusted the two I used to be right between the voltage of the two Tam Valley ones I was using which were close to each other.

    [​IMG]

    I used extension cord for some of the power runs and use it for the run between the DCC-EX Command Station which I can roll under the layout or quite a ways from it. The cords are relatively inexpensive, flexible, have nice outer insulation and I've wired the lights and brakes on a number of my trailers using them. The outdoor ones can hold up to the conditions a trailer sees quite well. I cut the ends off a little long and have used them on power tools that have worn out power cords and other applications like above where I used an end for a power supply's AC input.

    [​IMG]

    These connectors are not cheap but you can't find a better connector in my opinion (there are a few manufactures for these to choose from). I used them for all my boat wiring jobs (almost all).

    [​IMG]

    They make a great connection and the heat shrink grabs the wire insulation for a connection that can take stress on it and seals out moisture (not as important for us). You can find them at locations in the link ( HERE ).

    [​IMG]

    It was nice to see all the lights come on when they were suppose to and managed to get this far without destroying anything yet.

    [​IMG]

    I think the test track/DCC Command Station on rollers is going to work out well. I can bring it out a ways if I want to test/break-in a loco on it or program a decoder. I won't have a program track on the main layout as the one on the test track will be more convenient. I can sit on a chair there and use the keyboard, mouse and screen with DecoderPro to do any decoder programming that is needed. Also the test track can be switched between a DC throttle and DCC easily with a toggle switch if I want to run a DC loco before installing a decoder. Most all my locos were bought used and DC and need to be DCC for the layout. I've converted quite a few but have more than quite a few to go.

    [​IMG]

    Above the test track/DCC Command Station are just out of the way under the layout but I can easily switch a power strip on and the command station and JMRI start up and the DCC signal heads off to the boosters and circuit breakers and the track. The Wi-Fi on the Raspberry Pi and/or the DCC-EX Command Station's own Wi-Fi also starts and I'm ready to use my phone throttle anywhere on the layout. If you are looking for a DCC Command Station and don't mind doing a little bit (and I mean just a 'little bit') of sourcing parts and putting them together you can have what you see above for around $100 (when Pi's are readily available again) see the link ( HERE ).

    [​IMG]

    Connected Booster #3/circuit breaker 'A') to the track buss above and now have track power for the hidden staging are.

    [​IMG]

    Connected a loco up. It ran first time. Sometimes that's not the case for me. Now I can start laying track in this area and test it as I go along.

    If you came into the build here you can find the main index for the build ( HERE ).

    Sumner
     
    jhn_plsn, BNSF FAN, BoxcabE50 and 4 others like this.
  4. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

    3,259
    6,173
    70
    The Pi-400 is more available than the Pi-4b, and includes the keyboard with a safe power-down key.

    Pi-4b's are embedded in a lot of products themselves, and the demand is higher (therefore the availability is less.)
     
    BNSF FAN and Sumner like this.
  5. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Tunnel Portals Pt. 1...

    I have a number of tunnels planned for the layout and need portals for them so have spent a little free time when I'm not working on the layout designing some with Fusion 360 and printing them on the Ender 3 Pro filament printer. I print on standard quality so they could be a little sharper if I used the highest quality print option.

    [​IMG]

    The ones above were designed with UP tunnel portals along the Price River as inspiration. They aren't designed off of actual dimensions. I'm just going for a look I'm comfortable with for most things on the layout. Their portals in that area are like the bottom left one above and are concrete and fairly plain. To add some variety I've used a random stone pattern for another version and also have designs with and without the date built plaque (theirs have the date plaque).

    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    West Moffat Tunnel portal above.

    [​IMG]

    I messed around a little trying to show the cracks you can see in the photo without much luck. I'll probably go back and start over from scratch painting the portal and try something different.

    [​IMG]

    I might go back to this portal at a later date as I'm not totally happy with it. I'll probably only use two of these portals on the layout so might just print one more and be done with it. I'm going to put the print files up for the ones I've designed and will design at some point but haven't done so at the time of writing this (23-02-10).

    If you came into the build here you can find the main index for the build ( HERE ).

    Sumner
     
  6. BNSF FAN

    BNSF FAN TrainBoard Supporter

    9,895
    29,177
    148
    All of those look really good Sumner! My pick would be the "Concrete like UP's along Price River" but with a tad less weathering. However, I don't think you could go wrong with any of those options you have.
     
  7. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    22,015
    27,409
    253
    You had me at tunnel!!!! :D:D:D
     
    BNSF FAN likes this.
  8. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    UPDATE:

    So I said above I'd put this aside for a while but it was bugging me to much so worked up version 3 ….

    [​IMG]

    ….. shown above. Using Fusion 360 it didn't take long to narrow up the front walls and reproportion the tops of them and the top in general. I'm much happier with this and will now print another one and leave it alone.

    [​IMG]

    Since this tunnel was such a huge multiyear project (6+ miles long) I think they overemphasized elements of the portal to show off a little.

    [​IMG]

    In the picture above I didn't quite line up the front and back pieces. I'm printing them separately to cut down on materials and print time. You can also not print the back if you want and push the front up against the rock wall.

    [​IMG]

    It just takes a few minutes to glue the 2 parts together and file/sand the glue line down. I'll paint this and print a second and maybe also expand it to a double track portal even though there wasn't one.

    If you have a picture of an interesting portal that you like consider posting it here or send me a picture or link. If it is something I might want to use I'll try designing it and if I feel OK about the outcome I'll post the print files.

    Sumner
     
  9. sidney

    sidney TrainBoard Member

    1,235
    2,086
    37
    dont ya just hate it when something bugs you and you finally have to just go and fix it.... like your tunnels very nice...
     
    Shortround and BNSF FAN like this.
  10. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Tunnel Portals Pt. 2 (Single Track)...

    I took a count and if the track plan stays the same I'll need to have 12 single track tunnel portals and 11 double track portals plus one custom 2 portal face (have it done ). I wanted to get back to some other things on the layout out in the shop but decided that while I was using Fusion 360 I would go ahead and design the rest of the portal 'looks' that I wanted, at least at this time. I find when working with Fusion 360 that if I'm doing something that is somewhat repetitive it is best to keep going on it and not come back to it later.

    For now I've settled on three main looks ( UP/D&RGW style, a stepped top and one with a stone vs. concrete arch). For the facing I'm using flat concrete, a random stone pattern, 8 inch x 16 inch blocks and larger stone blocks that are 1 ft. x 2 ft. in N scale. All of those measurements are close to those sizes.

    I used the west portal of the Moffat tunnel for inspiration for one but don't want that name or dates on it so left them off. Again it is hopefully close as I didn't work from actual measurements. Close is good enough for me since it won't be representing the real thing.

    [​IMG]

    I also designed some loosely based on UP's (formally and built as D&RGW) portals along the Price River in UT as shown above. The stepped top and the stone arch looks are out of my head and not representative of any one tunnel portal but I found some that were somewhat close in my searches. Most tunnel portals are pretty boring so I also decided to use a couple different facing materials to change things up a bit. Again I didn't find anything with exactly the same as what I'm using but that is fine with me. I also use these facings for some walls in other designs so it was easier and fast to use them. I'm pretty much into what looks fine to me will do. If I was younger I might take more time with some of this stuff but right now I just want to keep moving on. Later if I find something I like better I'll have a 'portal face-lift'.

    [​IMG]

    I started with the double track portals shown on the right. Then decided to move onto the single track portals and came up with more or less a system to follow (shown in the pictures below). Now I've decide to fill in similar double track portals where the X's are. Some of the ones above the X's are yet different designs.

    [​IMG]

    N scale portals above, at least for now. I couldn't get the camera to focus well on the group so broke the groups down into the next images.

    [​IMG]

    I'll probably use the Moffat style above some place on both ends of one tunnel. Other tunnels are changes from one scene to another. In fact only a couple tunnels with be through a mountain that you see both sides of but through the two backdrops/dividers. In these cases it would be perfectly fine to have different tunnel portals as the tunnel wouldn't of been bored through a mountain at the same time from two directions.

    [​IMG]

    Concrete Faced portals above.

    [​IMG]

    Random Stone facing above.

    [​IMG]

    8 inch x 16 inch blocks shown above. 8 inch x 8 inch x 16 inch concrete and cinder blocks are a common building material in the U.S.. I don't know about other places and don't know if they are/were used to face tunnel portals but I'll probably use this style portal a couple places on the layout. I use this block pattern for some of my buildings and walls I've designed that one can print. See my thingiverse.com account ( HERE ) or my website ( HERE ) for more info and print files.

    [​IMG]

    The facing above is 1 ft. x 2 ft. blocks and for me represents stone blocks but could be concrete blocks. I'm still using a filament printer so can't really get a rough stone sculptured look but for N scale it would be hard to see any of that from a couple feet away or more. Hopefully at some point I will start using the resin printer I have and maybe come back to these designs.

    I'll post some pictures with the mortar joints partially filled in and the portals painted when I get that done. Also I'll be posting the print files on my thingiverse.com account ( HERE ) soon.

    If you have an interesting portal that you like consider posting it on one of the forums I frequent or send me a picture or link. If it is something I might want to use I'll try designing it and if I feel OK about the outcome I'll post the print files.

    If you came into the build here you can find the main index for the build ( HERE ).

    Sumner
     
  11. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Tunnels & Turnouts Part 1 ...

    Finally finished tunnel portal designs with Fusion 360. Ended up with 23 different designs total and printed them all out so can use the ones I like the most. I'll try and get the print files up soon.

    [​IMG]

    I'd used the joint compound shown above recently laying cork so it was still fresh in my mind. It is smooth and creamy and wondered how it would do filling the joints on the face of the tunnel portals that were block vs. flat concrete.

    [​IMG]

    Found out that it works very well. I'd use Tamiya Putty on another and like the product but like the joint compound actually better. It is easier to spread with your fingertip into the joints and easy to wipe off the faces with a paper towel. I took the fine wire brush shown above to the joints also but probably won't use that step in the future as the N scale detail is too small to see that you used it.

    [​IMG]

    I started the painting process right away with a black wash that seemed to soak in a bit into the joint compound. Then continued with other colors all brushed on. I happy with the results.

    [​IMG]

    A while back I'd started making #6 turnouts for the staging area and needed to finish them and make more. I had bought a lot of ME code 55 flex track and have a Fast Tracks fixture to make #6's but when ME track got scarce I bought a fairly large amount of Code 70 flex as it was still available. I plan on using it in the hidden staging and other places where it won't be seen such as the track elevator. This resulted in needing code 70 turnouts for some of those areas so I built some and will build more with paper templates.

    Since the turnouts won't be seen I could forgo adding wooden ties to them but I still need ties on the end and near the throwbar and a few in the middle to elevated the turnout to about the same height as the code 70 flex track. This is necessary since the PCB ties aren't as thick/high as the ties on the flex track. Also one wants the throwbar to be above the track surface so that it isn't dragging on it much.

    I'd designed and printed the tie fixtures shown above so though I would use them to add the ties and put almost all the ties on this one turnout just for practice and to try them out more. They work really well if you are dealing with individual ties. I did make a change also on attaching the ties to the rail. I'd use Pliobond before and I really find it hard to work with. Even with the thin tubed tip applicator it seems to string and get into spots where it makes a mess. I switched and tried a medium viscosity CA glue with one of the really small applicator tips. It worked well. You still need to not apply more than a drop per tie so that it doesn't run down into the fixture.

    I'd load the fixture with the ties for one section at a time. Then place the turnout on the fixture, supporting the ends with other fixtures. Put a drop per tie on the outer stock rails only. Then I used a long thin food pick that I dip into CA accelerator/activator and run it along the rail and it flows down into the CA and sets it. I pry the ties out of the fixture one end at a time with a X-Acto knife. If a tie comes loose on one end just re-glue it

    . Using the fixtures makes this process go really quickly compared to how I've done it before taping ties to a paper template with double sided tape. I made the templates match the tie spacing on Fast Tracks templates.

    [​IMG]

    Use a X-Acto knife to cut the ends off the ties.

    Sumner
     
    gmorider, BNSF FAN and BoxcabE50 like this.
  12. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Tunnels & Turnouts Part 2 ...

    [​IMG]

    I have files up for 3D printable servo brackets ( HERE ). Along with the brackets you can print install tools that really help installing the servos. A common problem installing servos is getting the bracket in the right place under the layout. The tool above really simplifies that process. The tool shown has two sets of pilot hole guides depending on if one is using the longer or shorter bracket. It has direction indicators on the bottom and the top.

    Put the turnout where you want it and mark where the throwbar hole for the piano wire is. I'm throwing these with a hole near the end of the throw bar and drilled a 1/4” hole in that location. If you have the hole centered between the rails drill the hole there.


    [​IMG]

    Put the tool in the 1/4” hole that is centered on where your throwbar hole is for the piano wire. I was able to reach under from the side and put the tool up through the hole and hold it there with the single set screw in the 'holding block' so that it doesn't fall back down ( NOTE: if you can't do that lightly tape the tool up against the layout from below. Go to the top side and push down to release the tape and pull it back up and screw the set screw in).

    With the set screw holding it up rotate it so that the pointer/direction indicator on the top is aligned with the track direction. This will align the pilot holes for the servo bracket in the correct orientation. If you think it is going to turn run the two top screws on the 'holding block' into the layout to keep it from turning.

    [​IMG]

    Back under the layout drill the two pilot holes you are using for the bracket screws. This is all quicker than reading it here. With the pilot holes in exactly the right place go back up top and pull the tool out (If there were two of you you could stay under the layout for the next step).

    [​IMG]

    Run two #4 screws into the bracket to the point they are slightly sticking out on the other side. Now go under the layout and using the screws and the pilot holes you can position the bracket into place quickly and run the screws in. The bracket will be in the right place the first time and you can easily do this alone as the piano wire will be centered in the hole.

    Often with other methods it can take two people and you need to center the piano wire with the servo. One person goes below and the other tells them to move one way or the other. Using the simple 'center tool' all of that is eliminated as the pilot holes for the bracket are easily drill right where they need to be.

    [​IMG]

    I built the cheap 'tester' (shown above) out of a spare 110v to 9v 'brick' power supply I had and a $2.00 buck converter to change the 9v to 5v. Connected it to the switch box that I modified with a continuous 'on' option and another switch to turn the tester on/off.

    I'm using $2.00 servo testers that I've modified to be the servo controller. At this stage with the tester connected to the servo controller you can adjust how far the servo throws the throwbar so that it doesn't over-power it. Once done you disconnect the tester and attach the switch box you will be using.

    You can print different tops for the switch box that represent the turnout it is throwing. To throw a turnout you flip the toggle switch on the switch box and push the red button for a second or two and the turnout will throw and also the appropriate route indicator LED will light and stay lit. If the turnout is throwing the wrong direction you can flip a very small slide switch on the side of the switch box and it will throw the other way. This also gives you the option to mount the servo bracket in either direction under the layout if there is something in the way and still throw it in the right direction.

    You don't need to build the tester shown above as you can use the switch box that will finally be used but it does make adjusting the servo controller easier. You can also use it to setup the turnout, servo and switch box before finishing the final wiring that will run to these items. On the tester I added a second on/off (black) push button switch. Turn it on and then throw the toggle one way or the other while adjusting the controller pots without having to use the red push button. You don't need this but helps when adjusting the controller as you don't need to also hold the red button down and adjust the controller at the same time.

    One could use the 'always on' that the 'tester's' black switch has but then the servo is always powered. This means the servo is always powered and the power demands for the power supply used for the servos results in the need for a larger power supply. Using the red on/off switch results in the servos only drawing power while they are being thrown. I feel this is better for the servos and I can use a smaller power supply. Some of the servo controllers out there do have the servos always powered.

    I'm using the 3D printed switch boxes for most locations but you can mound the switches that you see on the box on a more conventional layout panel that has multiple switches on it. The wire from the power supply buss to the switch box is two single wires or a pair. The wiring from the switch box to the servo controller and from the servo controller is the cheap 3-wire servo wires that have male/female connectors on both ends and you can find in various lengths including longer extension lengths. There is limitations on how long these wires can be but I don't see that as being a problem with any of the layouts I've seen.

    One can put the all the parts shown above (servo, bracket, controller, switch box with parts) together for about $10 a turnout. That is way less than anything I've seen out there.

    Cons:

    1. If you want to control your turnouts say with one of the DCC options you can use the servo and bracket but that is it. You could control some turnouts via DCC and some this way.

    2. You will have to do the switch box and servo controller wiring yourself but it is simple. The controller consists of adding two wires to it and an added printed circuit board pot. The switch box involves more wires but is not complex wiring by any means. See the link below for detailed instructions.

    Pro:

    1. This is pretty much 'old school' so you don't need to know how to program an Arduino or any other type of controller that requires a more complicated approach. The controller has two knobs on it. Turn one one way to throw the throwbar how far in that direction you want it to go and use the other knob to set the throw of the throwbar the other direction. Pretty simple.

    2. Very inexpensive at about $10 per turnout for everything you need to throw it. You don't have to have a 3D printer but it helps with making the brackets and the install tool. You could make brackets other ways and install the servo like most people are doing now. Possible but not as easy. If you are doing very many turnouts printing brackets vs. buying them might just pay for the printer and they you have it for other projects.

    Much more detail on all of the above ( HERE ).

    If you came into the build here you can find the main index for the build ( HERE ).

    Sumner
     
    sidney, jhn_plsn, gmorider and 2 others like this.
  13. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Finished the girder bridge that .....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ... goes over a small canyon. Since it was designed with Fusion 360 it would be easy to make it any length. More about it in the 3D Printing section on the forum ( HERE ).

    I also finished the abutments for it and will post them later today or tomorrow.

    Sumner
     
    sidney, Shortround, gmorider and 3 others like this.
  14. VinceP

    VinceP TrainBoard Member

    1,927
    2,026
    44
    Looking good
     
  15. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    sidney, BoxcabE50, BNSF FAN and 2 others like this.
  16. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Been working the the hidden staging area and finally got enough track and turnouts down to run a loco or three a few feet. Laid yard ...

    . [​IMG]

    .... track yesterday and pulled the pins and shot a short video this morning. Click above or ( HERE ).

    Kind of taking the day off.

    Sumner
     
    BNSF FAN, sidney and BoxcabE50 like this.
  17. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    Hidden Coal & Staging Tracks Pt. 7:

    Finally actually getting turnouts and track down in the hidden staging area.

    [​IMG]

    I left the .037 piano wire to the throwbars long in case I wanted to pull the servo or the turnout as it would be easier to put them back. Also I've decided to throw most of the turnouts from outside the track centerline. On my test layout I had the throwbar wires in the center of the track. Cutting it short enough there so that rolling stock wouldn't hang up on it was a little hard in that location On the test layout and this one I'm not gluing the turnouts down. The three tracks that attach to the turnout will be glued down and that seems to work fine and it will be easier this way to replace a turnout if needed.

    Along the same line I solder the track joiners between pieces of flex track but I'm not soldering the joiners between the three tracks and the turnout. I can always slide them back and lift the turnout up and away from the track surface and work on it if need be or replace it with a different one. These turnouts in the hidden staging won't be ballasted but I'll lightly ballast the ones that are seen on the rest of the layout.

    [​IMG]

    Above you can see the servo mounts that I have up on my thingiverse.com account ( HERE ). I also have print files for one that take two limit switches if you need to control more things when a turnout is thrown, such as, signaling or LEDs. I'll control the LEDs at the switch box that controls the turnout and use the limit switches above to change the polarity of the frog.

    [​IMG]

    .

    [​IMG]

    .

    [​IMG] .



    [​IMG]

    I often read on the internet that people like the looks of ME code 55 and 70 flex track but find it hard to shape to curves. If you get a tool like above or you can make one out of wood you will find that it is very easy to shape the track to a curve or straighten it back out again. You can fine more info on the site ( HERE ). There will be links to the print files and also to how to make this simple tool if you don't have a 3D printer. If in doubt take a minute to view the video showing the tool in use ( HERE ).

    [​IMG]

    The track above ends up with one rail longer than the other on a curve so I'll trim them to be the same or trim the nest piece of flex to match the staggered end. Then I'll join the next piece of flex to the piece we are working on with joiners and then solder the joiners. Then go back to forming the curve in the end of the one piece and into the next piece. There won't be a kink in the curve doing it this way.

    [​IMG]

    Since this area isn't viewable I'm running some of the track wiring on the layout's surface before dropping it to the DCC 12v Buss on the fascia. Some drops off of the flex will go down and to the fascia and the buss or some will go to switch boxes so I can cut power to tracks that trains will be parked on.

    I have one solder pad, shown above, most of the wires going to it are from the turnouts. Since I'm not soldering the turnouts to their adjoining track I'm adding drop wires to the turnouts and not counting on the rail joiners to conduct the track current.

    [​IMG]

    It will be a while but eventually the upper level that I made earlier ( HERE ) will go back in above the hidden staging. There is about 10+ inches between them so I can work on the track and turnouts without having to remove the upper level but for now it is nice not having it there.

    [​IMG]

    For a short video on this section of track click ( HERE ) or on the image above.

    If you came into the build here you can find the main index for the build ( HERE ).

    Sumner
     
  18. sidney

    sidney TrainBoard Member

    1,235
    2,086
    37
    pretty awesome seeing it come to life.......(y):D
     
    BNSF FAN, Shortround and Sumner like this.
  19. VinceP

    VinceP TrainBoard Member

    1,927
    2,026
    44
    Agreed Sidney
     
    BNSF FAN likes this.
  20. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    2,798
    5,837
    63
    4 District 5v Control Panel:

    There are 8 DCC power districts but I didn't feel the need for that many 5 volt DC districts. This is the build and install of a control panel for the four DC districts. The 5 volt DC power is for the servos I'm using on a number of switch machines; for LED indicator lights for the chosen routes in conjunction with the switch machines; other LED indicator lights and LED lighting for structures or anything else I need 5 volts for.

    I'm also going to have a few Arduino's in use so will add a 12 volt supply at some point with buck converters to lower that voltage as needed. I'm thinking that is only going to require one district though. The only Arduino's I'm using now are with the roundhouse turntable and they have a power supply already associated with them so for a while I'm not going to need anything other than this 5 volt DC supply.

    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    .


    [​IMG]

    If you came into the build here you can find the main index for the build ( HERE ).

    Sumner
     
    BNSF FAN, sidney and BoxcabE50 like this.

Share This Page