So far, actually fairly easy. The hardest part seems to be getting the wood frame cribbing straight. Mine are the truck frames but they also do car frames. Not really much visual difference unless you are up close
I actually have all my locomotives and rolling stock in a database, and I also capture the XML file for each locomotive in the database too, so I have it if JRMI gets corrupted.
Currently working on a couple of Royal Models 3D printed trucks. This is my first time assembling 3D resin kits. Learning that they are delicate and parts can brake easily. I dropped the dump truck cab and broke the exhaust stack and windshield support.
I wanted to see what I could come up with modeling rolled razor wire on top of some metal fence I am making for a scrap yard on my layout. At first I was considering stretching out a spring but did not have any the right size. So I tried wrapping some .010 thick magnet wire around a small rod to make about a 24-inch coil. Wire legs were attached to the section of fence to mount it on the layout. As this is only seen from one side, the razor wire is also secured to the back side. The fence itself is .020 styrene with some corrugated foil material that got on ebay years ago to use as tin roofs on sheds. Here is the same section of fence after painting with a truck in there for size reference. Two coats of Model Master silver and the red of the enamel on the magnet wire still shows through. May have to try again giving it a primer coat first. But I am fairly happy with the concept.
I’ve had to put out razor wire a few different times in my career. Fortunately those days are behind me, but that looks really real. Nice work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Those are great models and it looks like he's lowered the price some since I did one of the tanker trucks a couple years ago. 3D printed stuff just gets better and better !
Workbench activities for today were fun! I sanded the facia and put on the hatches for tunnel access. They are hinged to open downwards so you don’t have to worry about them getting in your way when you need to recover a train or clean track. Then I used some Colonial Maple stain and coated the facia inside and out for a nice mellow color. I prefer dark stain myself, but since this layout is going to be for sale here soon, I figured using a more neutral color would be best. I think it turned out pretty good! Next up is the wiring and then it’s for sale. 3/4 view from the west side. 3/4 view from the east Door on the western side mountain. Door at the rear. I choose to just make one long door instead of 2 smaller ones to make the woodworking a bit easier. That’s all for now, when the stain dries I’m going to rewire the layout with an Anderson Power Pole socket so you can plug in DC or DCC and enjoy trains. The switches don’t seem to have any wiring going under the layout so I guess whoever built it never intended them to be wired up for automatic use. Oh well, the layout is small enough you can just about reach them all. Lastly the scenery will be refreshed and made to look pretty again.
It's a cast resin kit from Lineside Models, The package said it was a 62. Don't know it it's still available.
It has the wrong hood for a 62, the flat hoods with the dual “jet intake” like features were only used on 60 and 61s. They went to a pointed hood from 62 to 66. Those are my favorite of the old Chevy’s I have owned 9 of them, 3 were daily drivers. 60, 63, 65.
John makes some really good models. I just finally bought my first one from him at the last show in Puyallup. I am making an Optimus Prime with mine. I have a General Lee, I will have an Optimus Prime once I assemble my kit, I still need a 1983 Trans Am (KITT), an 82 GMC van, 82 Delorian, 72 Beetle, 58 Cadillac Hearse, and a couple of Ferraris (a red 308GTS, and a white Testerossa). I want to hide screen cars throughout my layout to see if people notice… oh yea, the Black 67 Impala needs to be parked on my haunted house module!
On my earlier post I left the e off of Royale Models. I completed the models except the mirrors on the Pete, the mirrors are a challenge for my eyes and shaky hands. I like the results and plan on purchasing more in the future.
Wiring is now finished and trains are running! So much better than before I might add. The old wiring was held together with wire nuts and tape, see pics below for the new wiring. I need to tidy up just a bit but that’s no biggie. Here is my Hello Kitty Haruka train going for a spin around the layout. Another overall view, this time with a train running. Here is the plug in for power. This can be DCC or DC. There are no blocks for this layout so if you use DC everything moves. Not an issue with DCC as we all know. Here is the middle support beam, I decided it was the perfect place for a power block. The track feeder wires have ferrules on their ends so the screws do not smash and destroy the wires. This makes a much better, more solid connection. Here is the other side of the beam, with the power bus going into the first block, to the one you just saw above and the first set of feeders. The power bus going in is wrapped in nylon wire protector, and yes I will get everything tidied up, I just need to get more wire clips, I didn’t bring enough in from the shed. Here is the back side of the main plug. I had to carefully cut the large hole out and not cut into the facia, where I mounted the Powerwerx 2 pole plug. Scenery is next!
Well they have arrived, some of the smallest motive power I have seen and the smallest on my layout at just 21 N scale feet long. 100_0070-1 by John Moore posted Jan 31, 2023 at 5:00 PM 0-4-0 diesel rod steeple cab locos 100_0072-3 by John Moore posted Jan 31, 2023 at 5:00 PM And here it is in pieces while I figure out how to mount the couplers. The top of the picture shows the sprue of parts included. 100_0074-4 by John Moore posted Jan 31, 2023 at 5:00 PM These are the locos that are 4.5 volt motors and are what the electrical post was about a few days ago. Now looking at chip resisters because of their small size and thinness. But I have an ace up my sleeve in that I devised a device to limit the throttle throw to just under 4.5 volts and I used that to test run the little engine this afternoon. 100_0065-2 by John Moore posted Jan 30, 2023 at 6:18 PM 100_0069-3 by John Moore posted Jan 30, 2023 at 6:18 PM