The last week or so hasn't seen too much progress. Busy with a new part-time job so that has been interesting. Some controls arrived, so I have the last bits needed to build the upper section [Daphetid]. I am trying to figure out a good way to be able to lift the upper section free in case of a problem on the rear section of the main. I may try to utilize the bridge as a detachable point on this section, leaving a lot of slack in the wiring to the tracks of that section. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Quick report, 3 new locomotives received, the Athearn 2-6-0 runs perfectly, the two Bachmanns are needing encouragement and TLC, but are progressing. Next week will see more work on the layout, my part-time job is eating up my previous hobby time! Anyhoo, heading for the Hobby Shop this afternoon, might see what that holds.
[non] Update: New "part-time" job has taken much more time than expected. Did have some cabeese show up last week and a Spectrum 4-8-2 bought as is. Ugh, the valve gear is totally bolluxed up, so it will go to my LGS when able. Also, thankfully, have almost all my major purchases done as I just found a 1920s S&W revolver that wound up following me home. [Major hit to the hobby fund]. Goal tomorrow is to get the upper lift out section support terrain finished.
Egads, went out to glue foam down today and while in the middle of it realized how MUCH area I will lose in the central section if I do the plan as I had imagined. If I make the East Section [Right hand side] into a smaller town I will lose the Daphetid Branch but gain a lot of area in the Center. I will also be able to enlarge the spur on the West End to gain area there. Since all I have to do is cut foam, this is the time to do this. I would also gain a spur in the New Daphetid area.
Thanks for posting these photos! I had planned on using the inclined riser sets that rise all the way from zero to whatever, but your use of the smaller incline increments and stacked, thinner extruded foam board sheets looks easier. Maybe more expensive, since the thinner foam sheets are not proportionally cheaper than the thicker (say 1 or 2") sheets. But a whole 4x8 sheet is less than a new railcar! Alas, I need 3% incline, so I'll have to cut the 24" long risers down to 16" length (to match the 1/2" foam layers stacked up). I wish 3/4" thick extruded foam insulation board was readily available... But six riser starters (1 box) will still be enough, even cut down to 16" length each. I still want a 2" foam base layer to provide enough rigidity that I can tilt it up from the HCD sub-base, and run wiring in trenches on the underside of the 2" foam base. I plan to hold the wiring in place in trenches on the underside using 1/4" crown construction staples manually inserted into the foam. The HCD will still be underneath it all to ensure the whole thing stays flat over time. I already have the HCD, so it's not an added expense. Good thing I have not purchased my foam board (I tried, but it ended up being out of stock before HD filled my curbside pick-up order) or the inclines yet! So I guess it's a good thing I'm such a procrastinator!
Woodland Scenics makes the risers in the 3% grade: https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/INCLDECLSET And yup the 1/2" foamboard works perfectly for it.
Yep, I'd been planning on the full incline set in 3%, but using only up to 2.5" of the rise, with a 2" and a 1/2" layer of foam board stacked for the upper level. But I like the idea of stacking the terrain up in 1/2" steps, with a 3% incline riser for each step (well, 2/3 of a 3% incline riser is a half inch rise). 3% is pretty close to what I have with the Kato Unitrack inclined pier set, plus the intermediate pier set, with all piers at track joints. I have a spreadsheet that calculates the total rise and grade needed, and it says 2.99% overall grade. Almost the entire climb/descent is double tracked (two single track pieces side by side, not the double track pieces, which are only available super-elevated curves, and in increments of 45 degrees; I need a total 195 degree of curve, with min radius of 13.75" which is not available in 15 degree sections.) It also saves me inclined ramps because they are wide enough for Kato standard double track spacing. I need 6 sections of incline, four of which support double track. What luck! There are 6 sections of incline per package!
One thing to watch. The 1/2" sheets of foam measured a true 1/2" while the 1" foam is closer to 7/8", just enough to be a problem.
I was planning on cutting the length of my 3% risers down to match the 1/2" foam's actual thickness anyway, so if the foam thickness was off a bit, it would not be a big deal. Can you do the same for the 1" foam, even if it is only 7/8" thick? Unless that 7/8" does not match up with other height requirements... Just lop off a little length from the tall end of the riser so the remainder matches the foam thickness.
Hey, in that last pic, bottom center, is that a curved viaduct, with the shell painted black?! It looks awesome! I'm thinking of doing the same thing! Can you post a side-on view of it?
Yup, curved viaduct, pop the track out and rattle can paint. This is a prepaint pic. I will have to wait til tomorrow to get you a decent pic of it currently.
@BigJake here are a couple of pics of both viaduct sections. It was very easy to cut, as the braces are set across from each other.
Very nice; exactly the look I'm wanting! I'll be limited to rattle cans too, for the foreseeable future (not that I haven't dreamed about an airbrush setup.)
Well, I have a guy coming in a few minutes to give me an estimate on putting the windows in to enclose the porch. That will be a major step forward in being able to work and run the layout 3 seasons a year by using a space heater.
Well, I picked up an Atlas Turntable as I decided to go back to my original plan of simplicity, over trying to build an old Walther's turntable and motor kit. I have a guy who wants the Walthers kit, so that is good. So the slightly smaller footprint of the Atlas allows a different location and plan. Right now I am thinking to have the engine house on the right hand with a service track extending straight across from the entry track on the left. The would run about 4 more spurs for engines. Unless I would pick up an Atlas roundhouse.. Suggestions, observations, ideas?
One thing I have noticed is that most people put the lead track straight across the turntable from the middle of the roundhouse. Also very few roundhouses span more than 180 degrees. Most were much less than that unless they were at major rail yards. In actuality, it does not matter from which direction you enter the turntable, to get to the round house. You can enter the turntable from the side, adjacent to one side of the roundhouse if you want. This can greatly reduce how much room your roundhouse turntable, and auxiliary tracks need. Water and fuel (and ash) tracks are often along the lead to/from the roundhouse, but they could just as well be additional spokes anywhere off the turntable, if you are short on space leading into the turntable.
Yup, I am trying to keep the lead and service track across from one another. By using the small 2 stall enginehouse this will allow it in the most compact area. If I were to go to the Atlas Roundhouse, it would probably require shifting it to a more "top/North" side location on the layout. I love roundhouses, but want to try to keep as much area as possible for a small town street to the left area of the turntable.
