I have been looking at one of these for a while and before pulling the trigger I just wanted to see if anyone here has one and how well they work. My layout is not at all large but it would be nice to have something besides elbow grease to clean it with. I use Kato track and switches and wonder if this car's pad will travel well through them without getting caught on the points? I appreciate any advice or review. Thanks in advance, Ralph
Hawkdriver, this is looking intresting. I like what you did. What are you using as a cleaning pad and if it's replaceable, how is it held on? Are those the type of weights that you can get for pinewood derby cars? Thanks, Ralph
Ralph; The cleaning pad is 1/8" masonite with the waffle side toward the track. The guide rods are 1'lg. X .062"dia. brads/nails cut length to fit in the boxcar, The weights are available from Amazon. They are wheel weights....but just might be pinewood derby weights. They JUST fit into a N' boxcar shell. The weights: I have used: 1/16" DuBro set screw collars, but squeezed on splitshot fishing weights work too. The masonite pad looks much wider in the picture than it actually is. The width should be the width of the car or a 1/32" wider each side. Try to drill hole square to surfaces, a drill press if you have one. This car was run for approximately 1 minute. Note rail crud witness marks
And yes....the pad on this car is mounted crooked. That what happens when you rush before supper is ready.
Thank you! I appreciate the video and the “how to” on building it. It looks like works really well and be could be a fun build. I start looking to gather what I need and see how this goes. Ralph
Perhaps less expensive than weights, and also possibly already in the basement: suitable size nuts. I use 1/4 x 20 size to weight N Scale boxcars. I do mean "perhaps" less expensive since prices at the Local Big Box have been rising at an alarming rate. Fortunately, I have a large stash available.
You are absolutely correct. I did use 1/4" nuts for weight.....and they worked out really well. The package of these weights were, (key word here is 'were') less expensive than a box of 1/4-20 nuts. Now, since Covid.....prices??......all bets are off.
I used just some scrap wood from a shim for the pad on my track cleaning car. I just give it a light sanding if it gets too dirty
Hey.......I like all the info on building a car, but the original post was about the Bachmann car..........I'm still curious about how well it works????
Nice informative video with good suggestions. Back in the '90s when I last had two simple N layouts I only used one thing. It looks like an eraser but is hard and abrasive. I don't remember the name of the seller and it was for cleaning tracks. HO and N. Then I polished with NO OX. I only used it in the winter. In summer the fishing poles and motorcycles occupied my fun time. Thanks for the link and I hope that helps Dave to.
That answers that question fairly well. I can leave my eraser for the ends of track. Now how about those others that ably cleaners and something that improves conduction?
Got my Bachmann Track Cleaning Car today. As stated in the video it did stall the engine until I removed the springs. Then it ran fine on my Kato M2 oval except it would hang up on the little section were the power feeds the track. It went thru the turnouts/switches to the siding with out any difficulty. Because of the hang up at the power feeder I had to run at one mark above middle speed and no other cars connected. I put the engine on the other end of it and ran around the other direction. It didn't hang up as bad and was able to slow it down to half speed. It also comes with two sets of couplers. So it I change one I can use my old ConCors SW1200 to pull it as well.
I was thinking if I put one of the other coupler I could have both of my SW1200s. One on each end. Then maybe I could put the springs back on. Then I could really scrub the tracks. If necessary I could add the GP20 for more power. And add a roller car for the chemicals first. Maybe I should go take some of my meds. Your welcome Martin. Glad to be of help.