Rob, Thanks, you're my motivation. Cut off the threads on the dome base. Cut off the sand dome and filed down the area. I was thinking of leaving the throttle dome, but it is too close to the new dome location, that I think I'll cut that off too. I started to drill out the smokebox front. I'll finish tomorrow and fit the new smokebox front. Scott
Joe, Thanks for asking. I have been meaning to post an update. I haven't been able to spend a lot of time on it, just drips and drabs here and there. I removed most of the detail from the boiler, I thought it better to remove bit by bit in case I wanted to keep some detail. Started filling in the cab. Glued some aluminum flashing to the sides. Turned another screw head for the other dome, and fit the smokebox front on. On the smoke box front, I bent up a stand for the headlight. The stand has a tab that sticks into the wire hole for stronger attachment. I cut the stand out of aluminum flashing and bent it up with some flat nosed pliers. Next up, fill in some of the holes, add windows, and drill for pegs to hold the boiler together. Scott
Joe, Thanks! I did sort of the same thing for the camelback, but no tab. I am thinking of using either the top casting in the second row, or the next one down with the existing Marklin cylinders. Scott
I like that top casting the best as well in middle. Just looks right. Are you going to use brass tube for the actual headlight then? With like led fed into it?
Joe, I'm not sure. I am currently reworking a cast headlight. But I am also considering a brass tube. I do plan on using an LED from Evan. The cast headlight is like the one in the middle, just below the two cross compound air pumps. Scott
Well I’m not gonna lie. I’d be happy with a static light painted. If you can make that work that’s pretty good Scott. You’ll have to drill through that casting. And that is another skill set of its own
I did some work modifying the Marklin cylinders. Modified only one side to see how it looks. the top needs to be filled in. I think I will attach a cast beam and cow catcher. I ended up filling the window openings in. I tried drilling, but the outside wall section was too thin. I am going to redo the side fillers for the cab so they cover the window sides as well. Scott
I fit the pilot(cowcatcher), pilot beam, pilot frame, and cylinders casting onto the chassis and smokebox. I needed to do some filing to get it to fit. I also filed down the tops of the cylinders to their correct height and diameter. The pilot assembly looks a bit long, so I am going to try to shorten it without weakening it. I'd also like to add some detail to the front of the cylinders. Next I'll fit the modified Marklin cylinders. I want your opinions on which looks best. Unfortunately I was unable to get the front of the loco in focus. Scott
I notice what you are saying about the front length. I notice that your front pilot wheels look larger than the front wheels on my marklin mechanism.
Joe, I'm pretty sure they are the standard truck for Marklin, but the wheel base length is bigger than the prototype. I think if I use this pilot, I will add some length to the smokebox. , and Rob, I was thinking the same thing. I can just cut them out using tube in a press. I mounted the modified Marklin cylinders that came with the loco. I cut down their height and removed some European details. Which pilot/cylinder assembly do you guys prefer? Scott
Rob, What paint do you use to black-out the wheels. I ask for two reasons, (1) I have very little paint, (2) Seems to me the plastic that the paint is made out might not take paint well. Thanks, Scott
So, you have to clean the red plastic spokes with 91% alcohol and a stiff paintbrush (Just take a junker paintbrush and cut the bristles half off), scrub well and rinse, repeat a few times to get all the oils off. Then use an Enamel or Lacquer paint, not a Latex type.
