At today's train show, I noticed that the Kato Unitrack on some of the T-Trak modules had been ballasted along the edges and I like the look. I have no want to ballast everything like I've seen in pictures elsewhere, but a light application along the sides like this makes quite an improvement to my eyes. I'm a long way away from trying this on my layout, but I'll keep it in mind.
This might be unfounded; I'm not convinced. I'll probably keep my yard and engine terminal tracks mostly loose until I am certain that all of my #4s are performing reliably. If I have to notch stock rails on a bunch of them, I'll not be a happy camper. Then again, maybe I'll get the hang of it and it won't take so long. Nonetheless, at ~$31+ for a #4 turnout, Kato should make these with the same degree of excellence as everything else in their line.
By the looks of Mike Fifers video on modifying the #4's... ...you should notch the straight thru stock rail...not the diverging rail. He marks the stock rail and then pulls the rail out of the plastic roadbed to make filing easier. He also mentions that Kato did decide to 'round' the tip of the point rails on more recent productions to hopefully help stop derailments. This doesnt help the point rail where it contacts the stock rail however and filing that notch may still be needed..
In my case, I could see that the flanges were splitting the points on the diverging side, even though the switch was set for the normal route. Unusual, but nothing's normal on my road. I am guessing that the trucks on my Con-Cor PAs and Atlas SD-35s were sometimes reluctant to square up exiting the turnout above it, so picked at the points on the rail that I notched. Everything is moving through very well now, but I'll test it some more in the next few days. @Doug Gosha 's post above where he writes "You would think the propensity would be for the wheels to follow the easiest route - the point rail but nooooooo" suit my situation to a tee.
I've assembled a collection of my Units Most Likely To Derail On A Kato No. 4 Turnout and everything now passes without trouble over my notched turnout, even the Trainmasters with their out-of-gauge wheels. So, I'd say that problem is fixed. Other #4 trouble may rear up elsewhere and I'll address them as needed.
Nice to hear the fix on the #4 worked out well. Also have to say that is a very nice gathering of locomotives sitting there
Thanks! Say, I just noticed that there's GE, FM, Alco and EMD represented. We're an equal opportunity locomotive employer.
Thanks for the information and that's a nice looking switch panel. Much like I saw many years ago before the new system.
4700 uf will work just fine. I've used them for doublecrossovers for several years without problems. Ray and I discussed this when he was alive. Don
Nice lineup of power! Those PA-1s are by far the most finicky units to use to debug your track. Those and SD80/90MACs from Kato as well. If these units will negotiate your layout reliably, everything else will, too.
Ooops, I forgot, but have Kato SD-70/80 MACs. I just got them out and they are good to go as well. Yay. Gosh those things are big -- three of them take up 17-1/2" of track. In all my messing around over the last several days, I found a block wiring problem where mainline track and a passing siding converge at the yard throat. After a lot of puzzling, I finally figured out that I'd put a feeder in a dumb place.
Nice locomotives. You know I love me some CSX lately, only after I purchased my Kato ES44DC's units solely based on what they looked like And the control panel is awesome, me want one, not that actually operates, but just looks cool like yours Both of them are so well done, it's amazing! Your hobby must be wood working and electronics, like others on here, or you just have OCD, or all of them? Meant as a compliment, I have it too most of the time!
So can we get a picture of each control panel since most of us are interested? Is the one on the left for the Blocks for DC? And the one on the right I can not see. It is for what?
Sure, I'll take a photo when I get a chance. Photography is hard because the lights are dim in room light and don't show well in photos. The panel on the left with the numbers is for turnouts and the one on the right is for blocks and a handful of other functions like master power, DC/DCC, reverse loop direction, lights and tethered walkaround throttle.
Well, the photos didn't turn out very well. The LEDs are softly lit and look waaay too bright here. Used Green/Yellow for turnouts for Normal/Diverging and Green/Red for blocks On/Off. Both panels have a few "spares" if track is added or changed.
That is top notch work/craftsmanship hardcoaler! Is the entire table built or do you have more sections to add/go?
Thank you. That's the whole railroad, an L Shape about 9 FT on the long side and 5 FT on the short side, both 3' Deep HCDs. I wish I had more space, but I can't complain. It's on casters so that I can pull it away from the wall for maintenance.
