So I know it's inevitable. I'm going to have to ditch all of the rapido couplers on my freight cars - well and maybe even the Union Pacific engine I'm running. I was playing with the 2 undecorated cars that have the micro knuckles and I was astounded how easy they hook up with little to no effort. How hard will it be on the engine? I almost feel like taking all my cars and engine to a shop and saying - bill me to change them. And put metal wheels on em. I know in some instances it can be a real pain especially getting the height right. Thanks!
Well there is an easier way, just replace the trucks. MicroTrains sells complete sets of wheels and the magnetic coupler. They will not have metal wheels but that is a start. Because of COVID, most metal wheels providers are out of stock, so the better MicroTrains wheels will work until the supply chain is moving again. Here is an example: https://www.micro-trains.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_113&product_id=408 Changing the coupler is as easy to do as well. The come packaged complete and in most application takes less than 5 minutes to change the couplers as well.
What is the manufacturer and model of locomotive that you are using? (Atlas GP-9, Atlas/Kato SD-9, Life Like FA-2.................or is it steam locomotive? If it is steam, what manufacturer and wheel arrangement?) On some locomotives, the conversion is easy. On others, it does require some effort, but it is not that difficult. On some, especially the Bachmanns, where you use 1131/33, you do need some tools (such as the MT coupler tweezers), but you will be amazed how easy a job can be when you use the proper tools. MT sells a coupler height gauge. I bought one. Many of the Atlas of Chinese manufacture and the older LLs use 1015/16. On some of them, you must use shims, which come in the package. You try it with simply the coupler. If it does not work, you add the shims.
Depending on the locomotive's age, M-T made conversion kits long ago, specially engineered for specific models. They provide the ultimate in ease, though converting other models isn't often too difficult. I never did quite conquer the conversion of my Life-Like FAs though. Their coupler pockets are at an odd height. What locomotive do you have?
For me? Yes. Benifits * Cost - give or take * Experience - no way to say how it might help some day. * Swagger - bragging rights, well, for me at least. ☻ * Conversation - been there done that sorta But if You have the resources? * Get a new loco or not * Run it with other Rapido couplers * Create a bi-coupler car with Rapido at one end and MT at the other.
If you have a number of cars, buy the Micro-Trains 10-packs of trucks w/couplers. Be sure to put the proper type trucks on your cars. There are Bettendorf trucks for cars built in the 50s and maybe 60s, and 2 types of roller bearing trucks for more modern cars.
As everyone said, on cars the simplest way is to simply swap the entire truck..........the conversion to fit an MT coupler into a rapido coupler box is one of the hardest conversions I've ever done because of all the little pieces.........and you still have the old trucks and wheels. On locos, there are really 3 kinds.......the first is very easy. The coupler is held in by a plastic clip (maybe a screw).....pull that out, remove the old coupler,put in the new one and put the clip/screw back in. After you've done it a few times, it's about a 5 minute job. The second type is mostly on GP/SD locos.......you have to trim the coupler off the truck on the loco (so no going back if you change your mind) then the conversion kit has a pilot you glue into the opening in the front of the loco (not only lets you mount the MT coupler, but also looks way better) and then mount the coupler. The third option goes back to the MT couple mounted in the Rapido coupler box........for one loco it's not as bad as trying to do an entire fleet of cars, but at that point I'd personally start looking for a new loco.
Having said this, should be all the encouragement you need to start switching things over. Not hard at all, just like David mentioned. I understand about being apprehensive about doing something that is out of the realm of your comfort zone or knowledge. But it seems more and more these days no one wants to put forth the effort or even try to do something themselves. I remember my old man always telling me "You'll never know if you can do something if you don't even want to try." There's no better feeling than the pride you get from accomplishing something you've never done before. And if all fails, that's what these boards are for. There's always someone that is willing to help you.
That looks like an old B-mann GP-38/35/40 or whatever, I am not sure. it is a bit out of my era. I do not run any prototype newer than a GP-9 and do not know much about any prototype newer than an RS-11. I thought that GEVO was some kind of Weird Al Yankovic takeoff on a Devo tune. I do, however, recognise those coupler boxes. At one point, 1133/1131/1134 were almost universal for the older B-mann. 1133/1131/1134 are what you want for that one. You get a kit that has the coupler pieces, springs and a new coupler box. BUY THE MT COUPLER TWEEZERS. They are indispensable when you are working with these particular couplers. If ever there were a textbook illustration of why the proper tool makes a job so much simpler, this would be it. The conversion is not that difficult. Use a magnifying lamp, OptiVisor or something similar. You simply remove the existing coupler box with the Rapido coupler and spring. A small to average sized pair of needle nose pliers will work for this. Do take care not to pinch too hard. Put the coupler pieces together and grab with the tweezers. Stick a spring onto the end of the coupler pieces. A little saliva will hold the spring long enough to accomplish the task at hand. Spring first, insert the whole business into the coupler box. Press the complete assembly onto the tongue on the truck. You may have to use the needlenoses to help the new box snap into place, but this is not always required. DO TAKE CARE not to pinch anything too hard if you must use the pliers. Further, do take care not to damage the nubs/clips on the new coupler box. Test to make sure that the new assembly is holding in place on the locomotive. If it is not, you are in for a nasty surprise when you run the thing. I have done more than a few of these. It is not that difficult. Read the instructions that come with the kit and follow them to the letter.
That looks to me to be a GP-40, and it appears to say made in China on the fuel tank. If so, then according to the Micro-Trains Bachmann conversion guide, you would need Micro-Trains conversion 1134.
Your cars would take MTL short shank trucks. Which ones depends on the era; 50's and later go with roller bearing. Last time I looked they were about $6 a car. Never had a reason to go with metal wheels, and the few I've had didn't play well with magnetic uncouplers.
For my Bachmann cars they have metal wheels already - I just need the right couplers - and it sounds like I will need the gauge to get the ride height checked? My plan is to get all Micro Trains couplers installed, and then convert my micro trains cars to metal wheels. It's the Bachmann Long Hauler set - I purchased it in the early 90s, new, probably 1994ish. I might have Richmond Controls fix the LED headlight on the Sante Fe loco too.
