I am trying to return to N scale. I have some HO but not much space. For the base I have seen some nice but expensive ideas on here. I have fold up tables that were used for swap meets and home crafts that I don't do anymore. I was thinking of using the 2.5'x6' with a 2'x4' side ways at the end. But that limited the width. So what do you think of using all three 2'x4' tables positioned side by side with 1' between. That would give me 4'x8' to support a sheet of foam board. Because those tables tend to wobble length-wise I could cut up my 4'x8' peg board and use it to stabilize them using zip ties. I also have several stackable drawer units to put beneath for storage. Of course I wouldn't want to drill through them for wiring so I would have to go through in the two 1' spaces between. The bigger table would go to the other bedroom for a work space with a computer and there I could watch TV as well. Are there any further suggestions or warnings?
My thought is start small and gradually expand from there at time and resources permit. Tables: 2x4 end to end creating 2x8. Foam: 2"X2'X8' Simplest Solution: Do you have wood working tools? Hand saw? Electric drill? Frame around / under supporting foam. Using six to eight 1x4s for frame Resting on two end to end tables. I can provide a diagram with what I have in mind if you like. The Track Plan Start with an oval or two with a pssing siding. Focus on Scenery. We can talk on the phone. And or post here.
So your gonna put Only foamboard on top of the folding tables? And you will have 3 separate 2' x 4' bases? I'm a little confused, but probably just me My two different folding tables are 2' x 4' like my bases are. And mine are on carpet, so not so much wobbling, but I added adjustable legs to mine, and one I have to walk around so I added a bungee cord last night so that bumping would prevent disaster, I hope? Just happened to have the correct bungee cord size, but still thinking about other ideas They are slippery tables, that for sure. And those short metal ( or whatever they are ) adjustable legs, are Slippery, but also awesome to make it level. Thinking about adding a piece of wood on each side, not sure. Good luck though! I am interested in this for myself?
Yes it would help to know what tools you have and what level of carpentry you are OK with. Sometimes starting a project and planning it around what you already have might not be the best long term solution or one that ends up being the least expensive. One could build a nice 4' X 8' layout from 1 x 4's, 1 x 2's and a sheet of 1/2" CDX plywood and 1" foam for about the same as one non-sound loco. Sumner
I used to have many wood working tools. A 24x24 garage full as well as an enclosed trailer. I was a quality control technician in an engine manufacturing corporation and part time I helped build houses. Including plumbing and wiring. I still have a table saw, power miter saw, 5 drills, 5 power hand saws and many hand tools for both wood and auto repair. The majority in a rental storage unit. But I no longer live in the USA so I no longer have a great career and a very poor reputation. I'm forced to live in the slum and these are what I have to work with. Left overs and almost no way to transport those large items you want me to use. I would need it if I would use my HO toys. But I'm am working on that to. It's very easy to stabilize those tables. I've done it with the larger 2.5'x6' table and have 4 three drawer units under one side for storage. The two longer walls are covered with modular shelving for storage which I plan to take off the top shelves and use them for the HO. with narrow hollow core doors to bridge over them on the window wall. I have what is needed to support them. And I have more doors for more projects. I turned 72 on the 23rd so I have a ways to go. Have fun shopping for The Winter Solstice. Rich
I've been studying those resent postings about building layouts and reassessed my 10'x13' bedroom used for storage. I think I will take it down to 4'x6' with a table under each end. I would split the top into two section for easy moving. I can put two stackable 3 drawer units under each and have underside access in the 2' middle. Then I'll have room for a work table and have access to the window and closet on each end. The side walls already have stackable shelving. I still have the winter months for more planning. Maybe I should move to Hawaii real quick. They're having our snow storm Sunday. Whoopie!! Rich
Just starting over with N and there's only a bunch of interesting plans used by others. Also I'm now lacking in loose funds and all that comes with that.
Breaking a layout down the middle (lengthwise or crosswise) makes it difficult to have tracks across the divide that are not at right angles (orthogonal) to the divide. It also usually means that the track must be on level grade across the divide. Unless others have solved these problems, this could substantially limit choices of track plans. For a 4x6 layout, you could focus on building techniques that minimize weight, such as rigid foam insulation board, etc. and keep the layout in one piece. A queen size box spring is still portable through doorways... On the other hand, modular standards allow interoperability with other modules at clubs and shows, and are focused on portability, if at the expense of changes in grade (unless implemented in one or more dedicated modules). Building to a modular standard would allow interaction with other modular modelers in local clubs and shows, if they are available. If it helps, I like to think of track plan types in a taxonomy of such types, that helps show relationships between them, and/or how to modify a simpler plan to a more complex one (or vice versa). Loop Simple Oval Dogbone/water-wings Up-and-over multi-loop Twisted loops Figure 8 Folded loops Folded Dogbone Point-to-loop Out and Back Point(s)-to-point(s) Switching puzzles In reality, folding and/or twisting can be applied to almost any type, or part thereof; I have listed only a few (not listed: folded twisted dogbone). Also, adding crossover switches can allow converting between two types on the fly (e.g. a Dogbone to a Figure 8, or a doubletrack loop to a twice around). And of course, any crossing of tracks can be either at-grade or via a flyover. At-grade crossings can make operating more interesting and complex, or more snarled and tedious, depending on many other factors (including the user). A track planning software package, especially one that lets you simulate running train(s) over a potential plan for your layout, can help inform the right choices for you (as opposed to one for me or anyone else). I use XTrakCAD (free), and like it a lot, but there are several others out there. Lots of choices to consider!
