Thanks, I did both. Tank gunner with 13 months in Korea, A Co, 2/15th Armor, 1st Cavalry Division. Then 9 months Hq Co. 2/46th Infantry, 1st Armored Division in tanks. Then I went to Vietnam and volunteered for door gunner for 9 months. 1963-1966.
I, and many others, ride the wave of peace and prosperity that you all bought for us. Thank YOU for your service!
Actually getting back to my layout. Cleaned the former Time Saver layout rails today and then moved most of the equipment from the main layout so those rails could be cleaned too. Used mineral spirits and it runs much better. Next up will be to wire all the rail sections on that part of the layout as I did on the former Time Saver. This is how it looked earlier today.
I think part of the reason I'm doing much on the layout is that I'm not happy with the large board portion. It was fine as stand-alone but not real good as a part of a larger layout. As a result, I'm planning on redoing it I think I'll put engine facility in left portion, industries/warehouses in right. This will give me continual running, plus out and back, plus switching. SUGGESTIONS WELCOME.
Unless you enjoy torture*, the "yard" at top is very inefficient. The crossovers are not aligned, thus necessitating reversing direction and throwing switches multiple times to get to the back (top) track. And the lengths of the stubs limits how many cars your loco can take with it along the way. If efficient yard operations are what you want, I would change it to use two, simple, back-back ladders, diagonally across the middle of the yard (diagonally left to right, top to bottom), fed from two switches off the mainline (same direction as fed now). The ladders themselves (connected at top and bottom) give you a run-around track to boot. *that's what the Timesaver is for...
@BigJake - Thanks for the suggestion and I will look into it. I've not been real happy with it either, but it was mostly to have a place to store equipment, so wasn't too worried. That is probably going to change.
John, I understand. I think that's why most of us put yards on our layouts! It's the perfect, large capacity 'industry' that needs every kind of railcar you can imagine, whether it would actually run on our layout or not! Heck it could be an experimental car decades before it was actually put into use, or an old car that's been sitting there for decades, so era does not even matter! "Yeah, that old car's been stuck on the RIP track, waiting for parts for decades!" On the other hand, actually using (working) a yard is fun too!
In fact, such a split yard with back-back ladders can operate as one yard, or two smaller, independent yards if desired.
Yeah, but from where you have to enter the double ladder, it won't work too well for the upper yard tracks. It leaves you with a very short lead to back onto the next to top track. A few thoughts: If you do nothing else, reverse the direction of the crossover between the top two yard tracks. That will make using the top track much easier. If you can use a left switch to finish the upper right curve of the main loop, and start the right half of the double ladder, it might help move the double ladder to the right enough to allow you to reach the top track. But that's only if you trust your switches enough to use a diverging route for the mainline (loop). But if you don't have issues with the two switches at the ends of the reversing section (if you enter the reversing section at speed,) you probably wouldn't here either. Only extend the existing double ladder up half-way into the yard, then put in a reverse-direction double ladder (slanting to upper right) from there to the remaining tracks above. The two double ladders would look kinda like a big left-pointing arrow. Note that this shortens each of the two run-arounds, so this cure might be worse than the disease.
@BigJake - #1 is definitely a great idea. The other two, I think I'll pass on (at least for now). I have not always had great luck with fitting the diverging route for a long curve. I think, with your first suggestion, that this will work well for me! THANKS!
Prepping to replace large portion of layout. Cleared (mostly) the large table! If anyone has suggestions on how to remove risers (glued with woodglue), it would be appreciated!!!! And this is how it was done! lol
I've used a sharp, wide, wood chisel as a scraper to remove old construction adhesive from plaster walls. I tried various methods but that worked best. Maybe it will work for you.
I'm assuming you would like to save the risers if possible. Maybe a hot wire knife.... https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Mini...ocphy=9029831&hvtargid=pla-396482353892&psc=1 not necessarily that one but one that would at least let you cut them off at the same height above the plywood. They would all be shorter but shorter by the same amount so might be saved. Or a saw like this... https://www.amazon.com/Tools-ProTou...t=&hvlocphy=9029831&hvtargid=pla-580317067346 ... that would do the same thing. I have one that I used when laying flooring, Sumner
