Has anyone ever tried a Kato GP38-2 on these sharp curves? Wheelbase looks not too long (I couldn't find the actual measurement when I googled it), and the couplers are truck-mounted which I think would help. Also doesn't have spring drive like the Arnold S2 does.
I think I’ll try the GP38-2. I read a couple things online that said it may work, and if it doesn’t I’ll just use it for a future layout when I have more space. And I’ll report back when I get it…
I suspect you may be right but fingers crossed. I did get an old Bachman Plymouth 3 axel switcher that works on the R150s, so at least I have that. And I really liked the GP38-2 and the price was great so I figured what the heck . One day I won't be so restricted to extreme curves...
Kato is coming out with electric Steeple Cab locos (2-axles), and a small freight set for their Unitram track. They say the Loco has Kato couplers, but the train set pics show Rapido couplers. Apparently DC only.
Here is part of my inventory that works well on 8.5 radius. 100_1012-1 by John Moore posted Feb 20, 2021 at 3:56 PM Both steam and diesel.
Ok a quick update (and an embarrassing confession)... The GP38-2 did negotiate the curves, however ran rough. So that one was a no-go. But then I did more research on the old Arnold S2 that started this thread. I took the trucks off and noticed that the rear truck gearing was pretty stiff, while the front truck was much more free. I put it back together and ran it, observing closer that the rear truck was really binding while the front wasn't. I'm sure seasoned model railroaders can see where this is heading... A little oil solved the problem. While the locomotive overall runs loud (which is common from what I read here) it makes the curves with no struggle and the sound doesn't change from the straights to the curves. Chalk this one up to me not knowing much about maintaining/lubricating locomotives (until now). Thanks to all who commented!
No it was used so should have been broken in. I returned it because they didn't send what was pictured on the eBay listing anyway.
You might do the break in procedure outlined above anyway. Yes, it's broken in, but if it wasn't broken in on tight radius curves, it still isn't broken in to tight curves. And perhaps it could be.
Thanks. But I misread your reply thinking it was about the S2. I updated my reply for the GP38-2. Sorry for the confusion!
Then I recommend you don't try to break it in to anything. The once and current owner might get testy.
