You will be fine with Digitrax decoders or any from the big boys out there. You might get a lemon here and there but that's not any manufacturer specific and can happen to anyone. My fleet is 98% Digitrax decoder and I don't have any issues with them. I also have TCS and NCE and have no problems with them either. The TCS stuff is $10 more per decoder for some reason. The newer Atlas frames do have wires that connect the trucks to the frame. They have sort of went "backwards" and replaced the phosphorous bronze contact strip design that has been around for YEARS with wires. The wires are soldered to a point on the truck I believe and the other end has a "pin" that is pressed friction fit into a hole in the frame.
My mistake, I just looked at Spookshow and saw their redesign, getting rid of the brass strips. Huh....
@MK. Sweet !! I dig hearing other people’s options. Ordering anything online can be a bit skeptical especially if it’s something you’ve never used. I get the wiring connections but I can’t get why they have to be soldered to the frame lol you have to be extremely careful when you clean the wheels. Holding the frame while also holding the trucks running both hands back and forth on the cleaning track. I get a quirk in my neck after haha talk about a challenge!! At least BLI let’s you just drop the trucks by themselves. They do have small copper strips to catch power. @RBrodzinsky Yea man. Weird set up but you gotta be really careful hahaha decoder ordered and on the way !
Finished production. It took a few tries but It finally worked. @BNSF FAN If you happen to take on this project(BTW it's well worth it ) Check this out you might run into the same issue. The first time I installed the decoder it slid around in the frame quite a bit. Providing a lot of movement where there shouldn't be. The first idea I tried was to put plastic shims on top of the points/pads where the decoder meets the frame. Hoping to close and tighten that gap. It worked a little but then I found the contact pins from the motor to the board were not solid. Plus the pins from the motor that stick up were really short barely contacting the decoder pads. I couldn't find any of the clips that fill that space and I ran out of ideas so I found a FB group based on Digitrax electronics. I got help within minutes. Good source of info. Simple answer was to add a small solder layer to each contact points/pad and spread it thin. What a slick idea. It conducts electricity and creates "space". I put some solder on the motor contacts points/pads in the center as well. From the bottom of course, a small ball of solder hanging down to push down on the motor contact branches. Put it back together and all the strange issues were gone. Runs like a champ now. I notice on this model (at least mine) the mud scoop flange on the front and back drag a lot on the tracks. Which alters the performance. A small kink I have to workout but It will make it. Ran it for a good hour while I was messing around tonight. Happy Sunday !
Sams.... I found out that putting even a small amount on the contact points 'under' the decoder can...and in my case did...push the board up just enough at the frame slots...that the motor cantact strips missed this 'slots' they where supose to contact. So on future boards that where loose I put the small dab of solder on the top end of the board and 'wiggled' it back into place. The small amount it dropped the board actually helps those motor tabs make better contact. Just my experience is all.
Or, if you accidentally put the solder on the bottom of the board, thus raising it ever so slightly, you can bend the motor prongs up slightly for better contact.
I am pretty sure we are referring to the same thing on this one. I am posting a picture below just to clarify what I did haha. My case was a bit different as I "purposely" put solder on the bottom of the decoder See below !! Ill be keeping an eye out for your progress sir !! Cheers everyone !!