Cheap harbor freight single action airbrush and some $1 Wal*Mart acrylic paints and the problem is solved. They have very little over spray and they are easy cleanup, no odor. Oh and thin with water or alcohol.
Would you have a picture, I can't seem to find these at the great white norths version of Wally World!
The Apple Barrel 50 cents stuff. https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=acrylic paint&cat_id=1334134&typeahead=acrylic
Thank You, Sir, Found the product. As we are still in lockdown I need to go to a Wally World that is a designated "Grocery Store" 13 KM away - No problem!
Yup that's the paint I use on my structures, it works great. Some colors have better coverage than others, and I dont know what they use for pigments but when you mix red and yellow you are supposed to get orange... I got PINK! But they are still good if you pick the correct color out of the box.
I have an old Badger airbrush. I am sure I cleaned it well about 8 years ago...the last time I used it. Payday is tomorrow or Wednesday and we have to go to Walmart anyway for the usual monthly doggy treats etc. I was concerned about the weather as its to cold out in THERR RV....BUT...the wife will be going to her BBF's house probably Thursday...good in house painting day I would say...
Apple Barrel 4470E Acrylic Craft Paint, Matte Finish, Elephant Gray, 2 fl oz Looks like a good concrete color to me...
Okay, let's see how your Thursday works out @mtntrainman trainman - I'm interested cause I have an old badger too.
I'll leave the choice of paints up to all of you. I will say there's nothing like the paints we used to use in years past. Miss them.
Before I get back into painting anything other than scenery I'm going take time and make a color chart with the paints I have. https://artstudiolife.com/color-mixing-chart/
Would you guys be willing to share your mixing charts when your done might give newbies to paint like me a guide - Thanks in advance!
Okane, I'll be glad too but it will be a little bit. My first will be for the 2oz style craft paints. Mine are a few years old and formulations may have changed. Light and uploaded photographs will probably cause some color shift. Actually on second thought, I'll try to start on the chart this week. I can work on it while watching the Hallmark Channel with Barbara.
ARGGGGGGGGHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh..... The cutting and fitting of the concrete slabs around THE Engine Shop is going *&%^*^(*&%^^^& !!!!!! I had bought .040 styrene. Needed .080 to make the slabs level with the rail. Figured I would just double up the .040 right ? WRONG !!!! While cutting the styrene and fitting it in I come to find out the floor inside the shop is .040 from TIE height. This means the rail INSIDE the shop sticks up from the floor .040 !!! * Trip hazard anyone ???? * SOoooooooooooooooo...as you can see I have most of the .040 strips cut and fitted. I am not happy with them being at .040 height. The slabs between the outside rails really should be pretty much against the rail...and even with the top of the rails. . I realize there needs to be a gap of the slabs inside the rails....for flange clearance. My dilemma..... ...do I leave all the concrete .040 below rail height and have that ungodly wide gap everywhere ? OR *shudder* Do I attempt to put pieces of .040 down on the shop floor and everywhere else making ALL rail even with the height of .080 slabs ???
At least we aren't counting rivets. Not sure what to say. This looks good and you've given me an idea for what I can do in front of my larger train station. Hummm!!!
THE WIFE says I should just leave it like it is. She contends that once the 'slabs' are painted gray...the gaps shouldnt be that noticeable. So there is that.....Hmmmmmmmm
Guys that work near tracks all the time know about watching their step, so I would not worry about it so much!
