Well, I received an early Christmas present today from my wife. She ordered me two DN163K2 decoders for my Life like GP18's! I followed the steps from digitrax help page about this! No problem! Then whenever I got to test it, it was a no go! Then I compared toe old light board to the digitrax DCC board and I noticed the copper plate was a few millimeters shorter than the stock ones! My question is should I go get me a soldering rod and add a connection to the board? Seriously it is that short! Here is the reference webpage. Yes, the locomotive they are using as a demonstration is the same exact one. https://www.digitrax.com/tsd/KB401/l...needed-for-th/ What should I do? I did leave feedback to digitrax on their webpage asking for help. Though I don't think there is anyone this late working at digitrax. Maybe I will receive an answer from them in the morning?
If it is one of those press fit type of PCBs where it must make contact with the frame for the track pick ups you likely can get away with a small blob of solder on the copper pads which meet up with the frame. I had to do that for a couple DigiTrax drop-in boards for a couple of my locos.
Yes, this looks like my only option. Because I can use my tweezers to make contact and the locomotives will run. Wish me good luck with this. This will be the first time that I have solder anything on my locomotives. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pull the decoder out of the loco and add four small solder blobs on the main pick up pads, and I do mean small. It will need a 1-2mm tall blob to provide better connection with the frame. I added the blobs on the top side of the PCB and slid it into each half frame to ensure a tight fit before fully reassembling the board. You don't want the PCB to move once assembled fully. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
You are talking about the two pads on the top by the cab section of the locomotive right? I did notice a lot of movement on the board also.
Whichever pads are coming in contact with the frame. On the decoders I've used there were four pads near the midpoint of the PCB on the edges (right above the motor). There were also a couple copper strips going down to the motor that passed through slots in the PCB. The ultimate goal is have as little movement of the PCB when fully assembled to ensure sufficient contact with the frame and motor power connections. Part of the reason there is a problem is the decoders shifted to a thinner PCB than the original DC PCB. Adding a solder blobs where the PCB contacts the frame helps minimize this problem by increasing the thickness (and solder being slightly malleable will help increase surface area of contact). Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
Yes, normally on my Atlas locomotives they have four contact points on the top side. These life likes only have two even the board is set up for two contacts. The gap between the two contacts are far enough apart to cause the movement on the board. I will need to find that 20% off coupon for harbor freight to buy me a solder iron.
You might be able to cut a couple shims from card stock or plastic as a very hacky short term fix. I'd still recommend a couple blobs of solder though. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
I love these irons better than my much more expensive Weller. You can find them for about $15 on "A". You can adjust the heat but I usually run them all the way up on hot and get on and off the joint fast. Also you are talking about the contacts between the frame and board but.... ... the area above would be a definite problem. Maybe that was ok before you took the picture. Sumner
On the original light boards the copper tabs were long enough to lay over the top of the motor tabs. I am still trying to get the soldering right. One of the locomotives, I can get it to function. As soon as I put the shell on the locomotive it stops working.
Well, I successfully installed those difficult drop in decoders for my locomotives! I went back and looked over the top two connection points. Looked over the frame in the area. I noticed the black paint in the tab area and thought maybe I should file it to make it shine? Because in the Digitrax description they only mention filing down about 1 millimeter of metal so the decoder can drop in. First of all this is not really required. The decoder can fit into this location with a soft push without damaging the decoder. Though keep in mind once it is in place there is a lot of room for movement. So what I did was shined up the walls of both side of the slot location with a file to make soldering the contacts easier. Then I put the decoder in place. After that I added enough solder to the contacts, so it will connect both sides of the walls due to movement from earlier try of placing in the decoder. Then I soldered the one motor contact to the copper tab of the decoder. Because the original light board copper tab was longer than that of the digitrax one. Then tested it prior to placing the shell. Once I did this I inspected the solder to make sure it was flush with the chassis. With no gobs of solder sticking out of the sides. If it is not flush, the zero tolerance from the life like frame will have difficulty to fit into place. Unlike the Atlas frame and chassis tolerances which is greater and easier to remove and install. Lesson learned whenever putting in drop in decoders don't expect the same results from a different locomotive manufacturer. Altas decoder installations is easy as Sunday morning. Life Like will test your skills. Until next time.
