View attachment 220569 View attachment 220570 Been a long, frustrating few weeks, lucky we’re in pretty much lockdown. Besides my fumble-fingers having destroyed two points, I found my expensive MinitTrix P6 KPEV doesn’t run, and I *cannot* figure how to dissemble it. There must be a hidden screw somewhere. But mainly, I have a problem with the Kato double-cross where my GF 6412 loco consistently snags on the frog point it’s (shown) at. As you can see, the loco appears to be at quite an angle (no doubt as a result of the left curve of the entering track.) My question is whether the “slop” in the driving wheels is normal. In the second pic, you can see how far the center axle can be offset compared to the front (I pushed them manually to show it.) When the loco is on the track, you can “twist” it about 3-4mm, there’s that much slop. Its attitude as it enters makes the front wheel snag the frog. Track and wheel gauges are correct, and point is level. With other stock, I cannot “twist” it at this position to cause the snag. Any thoughts as to what I can do? Is this normal for a 6-wheeler? View attachment 220569 View attachment 220569 View attachment 220570 Second…am going crazy with trying to get the track electrically perfect. Goo-gone, vinegar, alcohol and track rubber all employed, but at slow speeds there are still blank spots, and I can’t see why. Even tried emery paper on some spots (I know, I know.) How slow can one expect a small, light loco like the one I’m showing to run?
chandru Open your 'media' from TB....click on the pic to open it....right click....copy image...paste it here.
Those Kato double crossovers are pretty much bullet proof ! *betting there are a bunch of guys here from 10+ years back who would swear they never woulda seen me post that.....LOL
First question is how old is the locomotive. Wear on the axle bearing surfaces may be the reason of the excessive side to side motion. You said you checked track gauge and wheel gauges already. A very slight side to side play is normal for the axles and by slight I mean very minimal. In the matter of the derailments does it occur at the same spot? And in forward and reverse? Next run the loco at the slowest possible speed through the area and shut it off the minute the derailment occurs. Watch the loco wheels carefully during this run. The issue may be the axles shifting. But now you have the exact inch of track to check.
The loco is pretty much un-run (though 5 years old, long story, I bought a lot of this stuff in '15,) so wear couldn't be it. It only derails at the same frog point, in forward only, I'm pretty sure.Though now that I think of it, it seems a little squirelly at some of my not-so-perfect joins. Slow speed is worse. I can watch it "kink" (from above) as it enters the turnout, and it stays that way until the wheel goes the wrong way on the frog. Here's my observation: if I gently push it along on the turnout, it has enough side-to-side movement that I can duplicate the issue easily. I considered bending the guard rail over a bit to keep that wheel over a bit more, but that doesn't seem like a bright idea. Other rolling stock (btw, these are all British or European models, could that be the problem (if so, headslap...)?) The rolling stock cannot be "pushed" to one side to snag the frog. So maybe it's just a bad loco? I mean, looking at it, I could imagine some washers between the inner side of the wheels and the support structure which would reduce the sideways drift, maybe it's just defective? I wish the other loco hadn't failed. I have another one one order hope to get it next week.
What is in the channel right before the diamond? Also, the crossover is in rough shape; the inner point rail at the bottom left is not aligned completely, and there are two gouges in the crossing guard rails
How old is that Kato double crossing and why is there reddish paint sprayed over the ties and what not? And the plastic guard rails look really beat up. Both the loco and crossover doesn't seem to be in good condition. Did you buy them used?
Some lateral play is standard and necessary on steamer drivers because the fixed wheelbase is long. No steamer could go through a curve without it except 0-4-0s. Real steamers had lateral motion devices, blind drivers on the center axles, or both. The best models have front and rear drive axles with no play, and play in all intermittent axles. In any case, the fact that at least one axle has play is good. That isn't the problem. That engine does not look like all the axles are gauged the same. The wheels on the axle on the right look to be farther apart than the others. If that's the case, and that's the lead axle, that likely is the problem. You say the wheels are gauged, but did you check all three axles? How can they all be to gauge on the engine, but different gauges in the photograph?
I hate those Kato double crossovers. When I was involved with N Trak, one guy in our club built a module with two of them. It derailed trains, caused them to stall (which threw the Aristo-Craft throttle that the club was using at the time-this was before DCC). I swore that never would I use one after that. What is that locomotive? It looks like a TOMIX JNR something.
The paint is my attempt at weathering. I guess I got carried away, but the rail tops were taped.The guard rails look OK in real life (if brownish), I think that's a trick of the lighting/photo. Tops are a little rough because of track eraser I think, but I doubt that's an issue. I'm not, as you can tell, super meticulous. Yes, there's some lint thing in the diamond, didn't notice, but it's not relevant since I'm going straight. Axles: I just rechecked. Keen eye! The gauge is slightly tight (but does fit) on the left 2 and an easy slip on the right. So which is right? Oh, and ALL axles have play. I also compared against my broken 4-6-0. That one has more play in the center axle, and the outer ones have less than my problem child. Thanks all.
I've had that problem myself. It makes one's eye develop quickly. If you don't have an NMRI gauge for your scale, I'd make the axle that jumps the rail match an axle that doesn't. Actually, I'd probably do that in any case. And just to be picky, that's an 0-6-0T.
I have two on THERR. One at each end of the yard. In 8 years I have never had a problem with either of them...not once. Maybe it was the N Trak operators at fault and not the Kato double crossover.
Dido what Mtntrainman, said. Right on George. I have three of them and no problems. It's possible the engine is derailing before it gets to the points. There is a screw in the moveable points. Tighten it down a little (not to tight the points don't move) and see if that helps.
i have two of them double cross overs they work perfect every time. now i have one i bought used , its garbage. has bad electrical connections someplace . rule #1 buy new. ive bought lots of used kato track and can tell you ill never do that again. its all been problematic. used stuff is probably from some old guys layout and the people whom took it apart did not give a crap and so there have been problems also the guy that built what ever layout did not do any of the track justice for resale. so for me no more used garbage. i buy brand spanking new or i dont get it. hard lesson learned and hard money thrown away. check them wheel flanges if there to large they will jump on a cross over had that happen on a few cars. replaced those with smaller flanged wheel sets and no more problem.
Thank you. Unfortunately, I do not know anything about those things. I doubt that it was the operators. Everyone's equipment was derailing or stalling. I would consider the possibility of the module construction's being at fault. The use of these things required mixing Atlas flex and the Kato. While you can do that, you must do it properly. My pike mixes Atlas flex and sectional, B-mann sectional, PECo turnouts and Kato track. I do not have derailments. I do get the occasional what I call "pressure stall", where a worn out rail joiner breaks contact due to weight on the section of track. It will get worse, as the central air condition is broken. The man came to look at it, but must order some parts that will take forever and fifteen days, due to COVID-19. As this is the height of Summer in a very humid climate, the table will warp and the joints will go sour. .........but, I stray..................... The Road Foreman did "bad order" the module. I do not know if the owner ever fixed it.
