You guys need to do a little research instead of assuming or going by what you "have always heard". Doug
Let me rephrase my statement. WD40 is not a suitable lubricant for any situation, as it was not designed to be a lubricant, but for an entirely different purpose.
I did enough research (as in I've used it on other stuff) to know it evaporates and leaves something behind. Don't care if it's paraffin or lanolin or Shinola. I don't want it in my locomotives.
It was designed to displace moisture in mechanisms and, specifically originally, to protect the skin on missiles to keep rust and other corrosion away. However, being a petroleum distillate, it is a natural lubricant. Like I said, it is not really meant to last a long time. I have used it in locks and only has to be renewed occasionally.
Rick - I owe you a big apology, because I misinterpreted your original post, and thought you were saying the opposite of what you actually meant. I apologise for not reading it better. For me, the biggest mystery re wheels is why some guys have a lot of problems with dirt, while others (like me) have none (apart from locos, of course.) As far as I am aware, I do not do anything special that would make that happen. I use naptha (lighter fluid) to clean my track and loco wheels, and I regularly run a track-cleaning train comprising three sliders around the layout. This is a link to a blog page that I wrote some time back explaining what I do. https://gulflines.blogspot.com/p/track-and-wheel-cleaning.html Or perhaps I am just lucky with my environment.
Wahl Oil is straight mineral oil. The same as you can buy at the drug store. I know. I used to fill those bottles.
I did a little research myself via Google. Below is some of what I found at this source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40 "WD-40's formula is a trade secret, and has not changed over the years, according to historian Iris Engstrand.[3] To avoid disclosing its composition, the product was not patented in 1953, and the window of opportunity for patenting it has long since closed.[7] WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to the US Material Safety Data Sheet information,[14] and with the CAS numbers interpreted:[15] 45-50 % low vapour pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon (kerosene) <35% petroleum base oil (non hazardous heavy paraffins) <25% aliphatic hydrocarbons (same CAS number as the first item, but flammable) 2-3% carbon dioxide (propellant)"
Thank you. I guess whether or not "what you have always heard" counts as research depends on who one listens to.
I am very familiar with the Montour Railroad and created a version of it for the Rail Works Train Simulator. Living in the area, I was able to see both the Montour and Shawmut in operation. But my branch line and short line interest is more in line with the former PRR / PC B&M branch and the P&LE Ohio River Branch, the Ellwood city branch or the Fallston Branch, where you had one switcher with a hand full of cars working the branch. Another example was the Duck Run branch in Kittanning that literally sneaked around peoples home to reach a brick yard. This is all that's left of the "Duck Run" branch. I've always been intrigued with branch lines that sneaked their way though people's back yards and down alleys in small towns. Just something about big machines being encountered on a more personal level. Anyway we've gotten off the beaten path again. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming on dirty wheels.
Luck seldom plays any part in keeping our layouts clean. But we do get Lucky at times. Grin! No apology needed. I had to back-track as well and re-read what you wrote before I fired off. I have no problem with your point of view. Allow me to say this: Guys like you and David/Sharkman, Jim Reising, don't generally have problems with dirty wheels because of two things: Routine Maintenance and a Climate Controlled Environment. Air Filters will make a big difference, as well. Routine Maintenance: Includes cleaning the rails whether it's by hand or a track cleaning car and/or train. I read something here about Goo Gone. I don't recommend it. Anymore then I'd recommend anything that is oil based and leaves a sticky residual And/Or is detergent based. All for reasons I've already touched on. Of course, that doesn't mean you can't try them and prove to yourself whether it's a good thing or not. I do like cleaning electrical contacts with Radio Shack's, Contact Cleaner. I've doubled up and used WD40 in such applications. WD40 is a water displacement and can be used as a cleaner of metal surfaces, certain electrical contacts. Not crazy about using it on our locomotives I'd rather stick with LaBelle's lubricants. Going back to something David/Sharkman said about microscopic plastic dust/particles. You could say the same thing of metal wheels as well. Enough wear and tear, can do the same kind of damage. I had an early HO Athearn GP9 motor, wear a groove in it's metal wheels. There's more proof but I don't have pictures of this, explained as follows: After a similar discussion here about wheels and how well they hold up or not. I visited the HO, San Diego Arizona Eastern Model Railroad in Balboa Park, San Diego, Ca. A member of that club took me aside and showed me a narrow gauge caboose with early N Scale Kadee plastic wheels. They had been worn down and presenting a groove in the wheels. He then showed me a newer MTL set of wheels with the same wear showing on it. Do keep in mind they milled their own track (not light rail enough for them) and it had a rather sharp edge on the head. Which could explain the wear and tear. Obviously they had enjoyed running these train cars. Wish I could remember his name. At the end of the day I stood corrected and had a better understanding. Do I dare say anything is possible. What a positive and fun discussion we've had!
That big bite was an area hit by water from above in the great flood of '18 (see the New Oakville Sub thread) which I demoed prior to rebuilding. I had just finished with the new highway area and started here, decided to try running, which of course required the cleaning train. And Rick, it has been proven elsewhere that GooGone leaves no residue once it has fully dried. Hey, it works for me but as always YMMV - and of course Rule 1.
LOL, well put. Sorry about the damage done to your layout. Can happen. Yep, after Goo Gone dried I was able to peel it up. You'll see in a minute I haven't seen such proof. I've used Goo Gone to remove double sided sticky tape residual from wood and metal surfaces. Then I had to come back with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to remove the Goo Gone residual. Then I had to come back with water (Universal Solvent) to remove the now messy residual made up of all three. Aiiyiiyii !! You made my point with Rule 1. So each to his own. Don't let me get away with anything here. LOL
It's true this did happen. I love stuff like this. In the picture shared it was more like the town grew up around the first rails laid. In other places and pictures look at the curved buildings. There is somewhere, I think Tennessee where they put a mainline in within feet of a standing house. Those poor folks who lived there. It would of been like having the train come through their front room.
And...? You expect us to have a problem with trains in the front room? Of course, they might have been ready to turn the volume on the sound card down. If they only could.
We will never come to any agreement on this. There is a certain attitude in our society that gives great credit and near superpowers for things that simply should be left alone, like WD-40, duct tape and certain politicians. We need to give this ongoing dispute a trip behind the barn to be dealt with.
Maybe I missed it but I haven't seen anyone mention a Brite Boy. Yes, they are abrasive but our club has modules that are 30 years old and have been stored in what is definitely an uncontrolled environment. We take them out 5-6 times a year run a Brite Boy on them and they are good to go.
I do use a Brite Boy and yes I could have mentioned it. Oop's. I think someone did post using a Brite Boy earlier. I've wondered if at times if it's a bit more abrasive then I like. However, I use a piece of Masonite under a train car and have been known to add a very fine polishing sand paper to the pad to clean off hard to get to places Ie., a tunnel. What's a matter Bill, feeling you aren't going to win this one. Welcome to my world. I can't settle any argument with my own point of view. The only person I can please and satisfy is me, myself and I. LOL Do know I prefer to avoid (not use) using WD40 unless I need to clean up a very old motor, that has water damage. At this point it becomes a part of my arsenal to clean up the diseasel and get it back into service. For example: The cat pee'd on it while it was laying in pieces on my work bench. Yuck! Right? A layout I built for a clown, he took Goo Gone and cleaned his rails. It took me forever to get his rails to a point I could actually run a train without it stalling out thanks to the build up that collected on the rails, as a result. I had the same experience on mine. It took Dawn dish washing soap to remove the build-up and well, I think you can finish this. So, you can guess, I'm not a fan of Goo Gone. Despite it all we are back to Rule 1, as I quote you. I wish I knew who said, "If your hobby turns into work then it's time for a different hobby." You have to know I appreciate all points of view. It's not personal nor does it need to be. Just a chance to toss some things around and share what works best for each of us. We've done that here. Thanks!
That's why I will come back and say I like and what I liked about something. But you're right we can only vote once. I don't know why?
