I am dealing with some very stubborn handrails on a MT SW1500. It has been suggested that I try some white glue to keep them in place, which I will try. I have heard good things about Aleene's Tacky Glue. Should I consider trying it also? Are there any advantages or disadvantages compared to white glue? Thanks for for your time and input.
I remember not too long ago, there was some stuff advertised all over and brought up on lists the world over. Some sort of epoxy that would hold delrin. Haven't heard much lately so who knows. More recently there have been posts about using another as seen on tv product, a UV cured epoxy, womeshat like you see used as fillings to replace mercury. Although My dentist just used some on my teeth a week or so ago, I haven't seen the ads on TV or the stuff in stores. any more. But something to look for, or have any of you had experiences?
By the way, white glue is the least sticky glue know to man. and Tacky glue us just plain old elmer's with a different label.
I use white glue or Arleen"s Tacky Glue for my handrails. The reason is that it fills in around the stanchion and holds it into place yet allows me to still be able to remove it later if for some reason I would need to. Also if I use just a little too much, I can wipe away the excess with a damp paper towel. At least in my experence, I have never had a problem with either glue holding the stanchion or handrail in place. Ralph
I have started to use the UV cured glue (Bondit) on my Z gauge models. I put a drop on a piece of wax paper, then pick up some on the tip if a needle and apply it. It remains workable for adjusting the parts until the UV light is applied to it. I remember using type glue that is on some type fiber optic cable some 18 years ago.
It depends on what you are trying to do. If you are gluing handrail stanchions to the walkway of a locomotive, use white glue or tacky glue if you may want to remove them in the future. If you do not plan to remove them, use the UV cured rosin (which is available online and on common auction sites). Super glues do not work effectively on most handrails, particularly the Delrin ones. If you are trying to repair broken handrails, the best thing I have used is the UV cured rosin.
They are slightly different; Elmer's glue turns solid when dry, whereas Tacky Glue turns somewhat rubbery/semi-elastic when dry. Elmer's is ideal for lighter, porous materials like paper, cardboard, small applications of foam (ground foam or WS foliage, not scenery base foam) or balsa wood.
Would this be an appropriate kit to start with? https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Liquid-Plastic-Seconds-Anything/dp/B078XHFYJM
I have used canopy glue with good results. I diluted mine (water) just a little applied w a needle, dries clear and stays flexible.
Thanks everyone for your input. I've ordered a Bondic kit from Amazon. My local Ace store and four other local stores didn't have it and never heard of it. No money out of my pocket by using Amazon because I can use credit card points.
If the handrails are popping out of the holes, use the expanding type Gurilla Glue. Foll GG directions and add a little moisture to the hole. Then insert the rail into the hole and hold in place overnight. This will hold it in place by friction pressure, but not make it impossible to remove. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk