A simple manual turnout control for modules

berNd Jan 7, 2020

  1. berNd

    berNd TrainBoard Member

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    In my FREMO americaN yard Manaukee I use a very simple and cheap but very reliable manual turnout control. It´s an easy way to actuate the turnouts from both sides, because often the yard crew works on the north side and road crews pass the yard on the south side, as in the picture below.

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    To avoid any protrusion on the module sides, I use aluminium U channel to support an aluminium rod that is slightly shorter (abaout 5mm) than the module width
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    On the rod are two luster terminals: one for the single pole double throw SPDT on/on toggle switch and one for the piano wire to actuate the throwbar
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    The SPDT is used for the polarization of the frog AND to hold the aluminium rod in its two positions
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    In the other luster terminal I stich two holes with a pointed piano wire and then insert a piano wire that actuates the throw bar. Bend the wire at the lower end for more than 90 degrees to avoid the risk of injury
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2020
  2. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks so much for the very detailed pictures. They really help.

    I like how you are using the toggle switch to hold the point in place and about everything else you are doing. I'm setting up for servos but would like to have manual control any place that is an option.

    So let the questions begin:

    1. What are and do you have a link to the small knobs on the ends of the control rods?

    2. Is the piano wire in the luster terminal held in only by friction? Wondering how it doesn't drop down? Are you piercing the luster terminal with a smaller diameter piano wire for a tight fit?

    3. Looks like I could use what you have here in a location where the turnout isn't at 90 degrees to the edge of the layout. There would be a flex cable to one end of a control rod and the control rod would have bearing blocks on each end with the two luster terminals between the blocks and another outside one block to connect the control rod to the flex cable???

    4. Do you have any situations where the turnout throwbars are in line with each other and all 90 degrees to the edge of the fascia, like in a yard situation? If so how are you configuring the control rods as you would need multiple knobs in the same place on the fascia? Maybe stack them vertically with the top going to the nearest turnout?

    Different topic:

    1. I like the bare buss wires and the way the feeders are soldered to them. Have you been happy with that arrangement and do you see it as a solution for about any size layout or do you/would you mix it with insulated buss wires. I bought wire for insulated but since I'm just beginning could switch and really like what I see that you are doing :).

    2. Whose turnouts and can you throw them with the upright whatever where the arrow is in the picture and if so also via the control rods? I think I can see the piano wire in the middle of the throw bar.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks, I think you have given me some solutions to how I'll do a few things,

    Sumner
     
  3. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    While I'm asking questions, what size are those terminals that you are using?

    Thanks,

    Sumner
     
  4. berNd

    berNd TrainBoard Member

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    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaft_collar

    Right, just friction. I used the same diameter for piercing and the actuating wire

    In my yard, all the rods run perpendicular to the side, even for the trwo turnouts where the throwbar is not perpendicular.

    A question of planning or bending the rod

    In modular yards, I would always use bare bus wire because of the many feeder wires. On straight track modules I use insulated stranded wire bus.

    Atlas turnouts have the hole(s) for the actuating wire at the ends of throwbar. I should pull my wires a little bit deeper for those photos. But in reality they do not attract much attention.
     
    patrick5678 and Sumner like this.
  5. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for taking the time for all the good information. I'll be using a lot of it,

    Sumner
     
  6. SOO MILW CNW

    SOO MILW CNW TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thanks for all the info. I am going to see if that will work through 2" foam and 1/4" plywood that I use on my FreemoN sections.
    Thanks,
    Wyatt
     
  7. berNd

    berNd TrainBoard Member

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    Wyatt,

    I think that the wire for actuating the throwbar becomes too long and has not enough tension to keep the points in position.

    Just my 2c
    Bernd
     
  8. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    What size wire are you using? FastTracks sells a .037 wire that is a little larger in diameter and stiffer than what some people use which might help. I've used it on 1/2" plywood with 1" foam over it for a 1 1/2" thickness ok but that is with a Servo where I can adjust the torque and travel by where I attach the wire to the servo arm.

    Here the throw is limited by the length of the throw of the toggle switch but one could look for one with a longer arm/throw.

    Sumner
     

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