The Greatest Modeling Follies EVER

Here we go, a list of all those things in the hobby that we dislike. And hopefully, sollutions to those problems.

Right now, I am quite displeased with the Kadee #5 centering spring. it seems that it does not work as well as it should in my equipment. I cann not see how it has remained relative unchanged since the original way back when.

Of course, a solution would be to remove the boxes and installing a Kadee in a box. However, this is kind of hard on thins like MDC Roundhouse, in which the box is grafted in metal to the frame.

But even with this little spring, I still feel that these little metal knuckles are far superior to the old XF2 that used to be on everything.

One specific freight car: the old Bachmann six axle flat car. no matter how you roll it straight out of the box, it will derail no matter what. Weight only prolongs the time it takes to derail. The Tyco crane preforms only slightly better, but it is still the first car off the tracks.

Upgrades for these cars would probably include a ton of lead weight in these cars, and a complete replacement of the running gear. After these improvements, you might have spent as much as you could have on an Athearn or better kit, so you might breack even.

I am sure there are more products out there that have these kinds of problems. What are they?

[ 20 April 2002, 07:35: Message edited by: Benny ]

 

I could fill a book on this subject, so I'll keep out of this one!

 

One plus side: If there is couple of these plastic knuckle couplers sets throughout the train, (1 to 4) you can practice true to life rail operations over hard grades. I say this number because you want the break to happen, you don't want to know where it is going to happen, but at the same time you don't want the entire triain to break up every single operating session. Of course, you might also want to add small hooks between the cars so that when they do break, you can simulate the replacement coupler with a temporary link that will hold the cars together until you reach a siding where they can be serviced with replacements.

Another problem might be in that, if on a grade, the cars might keep on rolling all the way to the end...which means the dispatcher will have to clear the line, and an engineer will have to gently run up and couple to the caboose of the missing piece with a helper locomotive, and then couple with it in a manner that doesn't make a mess...a difficult task unless you think a bit, and basically catch the train by slowing the second locomotive until it couples, and then slowing down to a stop.

This would certianly teach the engineers how to be delicate when they are running your trains and a reverence for smooth trackwork(though rough tracks add even more interesting factors to the system!)

These knuckles also make the kits look very impressive to the outsiders straight out of the box when you are a hundred miles from home and you are on a marching band trip putting together a Athearn AAR 40' steam era SF Map Boxcar because nobody on the bus has ever seen 1) a hobby enthusiast's eyes widen and jaw drop when they see there is a hobbyshop right next to the music store 2) see that same person spend their hard earned Tenor Sax reed money on a single box containing too many little pieces that appears to look like a toy 3) hear the question "does any of the Saxophone , Clarinet, or Flute players have a set of screw drivers," 4) see a grown man gently urging the shell together freak into a small boy everytime the bus goes over a bump, the box moves, or a screw plays "hide and go seek AWOL style", and then 5) see a finished toy that is not exactly definable in the category of child's toy everyone is so familiar with.

Now of course, these people have no idea about the operations or the problems with the precise detailing on this boxcar, the latter problem that I can live with quite happily. I am freelancing, and just because SF never had a boxcar exactly like this one, MY railroad DOES.

But I tell you, they were all most impressed about how it looked, even though they ALL Still wonder about the person holding who was it up to the dimming nightlights on the bus.

Otherwise, I agree with you. But they are nice in that there is a market for them if you decide to change them all out and you keep them in their new condition. You won't get a whole lot for them, but in this hobby, it seems like every little bit helps!

Thank the lord the xf2 is finally being retired. It worked well, but its operational limitations have been too many for too long. Too bad this means all those great Athearn kits that are otherwise unchanged are also at least 2.00 more then the first time I bought one.
The old xf2 do make nice scrap loads for gondolas.

But price we could gripe about for ever...so lets not get into THAT one. And management of the model railroad companies, and the labor used, and such, could go on for volumes on end. Lets stick to the problems just with the equipment.

Keep the problems (and their solutions) coming!

Ben Kaur

[ 20 April 2002, 07:30: Message edited by: Benny ]

 

The reason we're seeing more and more styles of knuckle couplers on the market is that Kadee's patent ran out. The design can now be shared by its' competitors. However, MR recently did a test of all the knuckle couplers out there, and the Kadee's smoked them all. Now, with the Kadee #58 prototypically correct coupler (that works with all others), is there really any reason to buy someone else's product?

 

The Kadee #58, while close to scale size is still too long. I really wish Kadee would have shortened the knuckle. But its the best coupler out there in my opinion. The problems people claim with uncoupling on grades is beyond me, because if the couplers are installed at the right height to began with that really shouldn't be possible. But i'm not really operating anything right now so i could prove myself wrong

Oh i remember that Bachmann 6 axle flat. i had a GN one as a kid and if you looked at it wrong it would derail i think i still have it in a box somewhere

benjamin

 

I have used all of the KD clones and the only one worth a darn is the Accumate. It doesn't always mate well with the other clones but does well with KD's and itself. Not only are the plastic knuckle springs prone to failure, I have had shafts break as well.
As far as lousy models go, the new ready to run Walthers models are terrible. The workmanship is poor and all of the couplers (clones) sag badly. They're priced too high as well. Give me back the kits...I have to spend as much time redoing the RTR's as I would building the kits to begin with.

 

I recently picked up 10 of the Walthers Budd cars, the only Walthers equipment I own, they run very well straight out of the box.

Gary

 

<font color="336633">I have tryed all the others as well, and im still sticking to KD's, I not got round to trying the close to scale ones yet.....</font>

 

<font color="336633">My problems are simple.......lack of money/time/money/space/money....... </font>

 

Follies??
Who at MRC decided to put another F unit on the market at this time?
Already mentioned..... The wide bodied units Athearn still markets years after they switched to a narrow motor. (I once asked Athearn about this and it appears unlikely they will re-tool their older line) Perhaps a whole new Genesis line is on the horizon.
The Walthers transfer table. The gears turned to mulch the first time I tried to use it. (They did send me a whole new motorized kit) I am hoping to use NWSL gears this time.
The Budd RPO from Walthers.... I was short grabirons with this. Walthers again sent me replacements admitting the shortage.
The Engineer from Aristocraft. Mine died about a month after I started using it. I have replaced batteries etc.... I have been told to get it repaired I must also send $20.00.

However, for every "mistake" there are hundreds of great things going on in the hobby. Its forums like these that keep everyone informed of "follies" and hopefully help others to avoid them.
AF Niederer

 

Follies??
Who at MRC decided to put another F unit on the market at this time?
Already mentioned..... The wide bodied units Athearn still markets years after they switched to a narrow motor. (I once asked Athearn about this and it appears unlikely they will re-tool their older line) Perhaps a whole new Genesis line is on the horizon.
The Walthers transfer table. The gears turned to mulch the first time I tried to use it. (They did send me a whole new motorized kit) I am hoping to use NWSL gears this time.
The Budd RPO from Walthers.... I was short grabirons with this. Walthers again sent me replacements admitting the shortage.
The Engineer from Aristocraft. Mine died about a month after I started using it. I have replaced batteries etc.... I have been told to get it repaired I must also send $20.00.

However, for every "mistake" there are hundreds of great things going on in the hobby. Its forums like these that keep everyone informed of "follies" and hopefully help others to avoid them.
AF Niederer

 

AND finds things to do with these bad pieces!

 

I'm keeping out of this one! I know enough to write a
"Repairs on scale trains Encyclopedia Vol. 1 to Vol. 100"
So... I'll just read on the posts that are posted in this tread... I'd have way to much to tryp out and 12 hours to typing is like work...... When I could be performing these tasks you all will be talking about

[ 27 April 2002, 19:18: Message edited by: 7600EM_1 ]

 

Count me in for K D's. Exclusively. Whenever I purchase a kit, engine, or model that comes packaged w/ a "clone" knuckle coupler, it goes right in the scrapebox, and either a K D #58 or #5 goes on.

I use the KD "wannabe's" by cutting the shank off, and placing around the layout as rusted scrap, or trackside garbage.

I also keep a jar full of tiny scrap thissa and thatta I use to make gondola scrap loads. THose fake K D couplers fit nicely there!

-Kitbash

 

Kitbash, I have to agree with you on the KD's, I will NOT use anything but KD! If I don't have KD's at the time I'll let the X2F's in and wait till I get somewhere to get some KD's or when I call in a order.. I won't use the Mchenry's nor the Bachmann E-Z mates (which are Mchenry's anyway) being their plastic and well I haul long consists and the plastic just don't stand up to my expectations with strength!

The only thing with KD that I have a grudge against is their long center set #5's (i'm not sure of the actuall number) but they are also plastic! But seemingly stronger then all the other plastic ones! including the X2F's! And the fact of the trip pin thats suppose to represent air hoses! I cut those off, being I don't use the uncloupler action so...... I'm more to the long haul heavy tonage type modeler... I do my own switching with a small hand tool to uncouple the cars... Keeps me more envolved in the running and all... then to just sit their and watch it all do the work.. So... And I put on brass castings from Cal-Scale for the hoses so. The trip pins look awkward to me with the air hose brass detail...

 

Worst folly?

Plastic wheels. Bad idea from the beginning. An even worse idea as time went on. Newer plastic whells may even be worse than the old ones!

They should all be metal WITH metal axles like Intermountain so it's easy to add lighting to cars. The additional cost to have only metal wheels in model sets would be minimal if included in the box.

Mark