Working with Rokuhan track

husafreak Jun 1, 2019

  1. husafreak

    husafreak TrainBoard Member

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    I set up a test track, using Rokuhan track. It’s two loops 195R and 220R with sidings off both tracks and a turnout with two Bumper tracks off the inner loop. An R078 double crossover connects the two loops.
    I am having a hard time keeping the trains running through some of it reliably. The R078!double crossover is a troublemaker! When running straight trough it my small, light, two axle cars tend to hop at the junction with the outer tracks and decouple. Are they too light? Is the joint bad and should I try to file it smoother or level?
    Any of my engines and cars can come off when I use it to cross over. They come of the rails in the middle of the crossover, so I see little opportunity to improve on the original design. But I am sure open to suggestions.
    Maybe it is just the nature of the beast but I don’t mind doing a little work on it if there’s a solution.
    One thing I have noticed is wherever cars or engines jump at track meeting points one or more of the rails are smash cut rather than cleanly cut.
    Thanks
     
  2. z.scale.hobo

    z.scale.hobo TrainBoard Member

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    I know you had said you got some "free" cars ... Wonder if some are defective or have out of gauge wheels. The R078 is a precise piece and I have not seen many operational issues with them. Is the track secured? Over secured (screws too close to the turnout, torquing it?)?
     
  3. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Can you roll just on car, like a 2 axle marklin (the most trustworthy devuce) or say a 40' flat or gondola or even a box car to watch this?
    Or, do you have 2 body mounted couplers (not many were made) This will force a large offset between the 2 cars at the middle of the crossover.
     
  4. husafreak

    husafreak TrainBoard Member

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    I will look at the couplers. I do not think I have any body mounted ones.
    I replaced the plastic wheels with new steel ones.
    I have definitely been playing with track screws a lot! I am trying to use as few as possible on this flat layout and I realized quickly that over torquing them causes problems. I let the crossovers “float” without screws in or around them so that they won’t be warped by the screws. I believe you gave me that important tip Frank.
    I will try to get some pictures or a short video up to help illustrate the problems. But in a nutshell:

    1. My Marklin coupler trains are decoupling at the same spot, I can see them jump at the rail joint. The lighter the cars the more noticeable the jump and the greater possibility of uncoupling. It is where the R078 meets a 220mm straight. One side of the track appears to be smash cut not cleanly cut. I will either replace it or file it. Maybe just a factory defect.

    2. I’ll do a little scientific study at the R078 crossover. I’ll post my results. But I know from experience that the trains do not roll through it smoothly, they all bounce around. My engines with more heft, better power pickup, or even traction tires seem to have an advantage but I’ll check that. Note that my other turnouts are all R039 or R040 like in the siding sets and they are very reliable. As long as I remember to position them correctly!

    I’m really trying to learn to make these tracks run as smoothly and reliably as possible. After setting up my Cortina layout with tunnels and elevation changes and so much going on I realized how important this will be. So I thought maybe the Rokuhan “pros” are doctoring their tracks or somehow improving them but that may not be the case. And not all trains are created equally, in my short experience I have engines and cars that are noticeably more troublesome in the staying on track department. As an aside I was out running last week and looking at real train tracks. So now I want continuously welded rails for my layouts too! I think I see the beauty of flex track now.
    All in all I am very happy with the way the tracks are running I just dread using that particular crossover and I’m avoiding long trains small two axle cars.
    I’ll try to fix that.
     
  5. husafreak

    husafreak TrainBoard Member

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    Oh sorry Jeff, I see now that all of those two axle Marklin cars have the body mounted couplers.
    I also realized that the really long cars are more likely to jump the track in the middle and not follow the R078 crossover, they try to continue straight on when they are part of a multi car train. But on their own and just rolled (with a good push) through the R078 the long cars go through just fine. I took some videos. So I think the tension of multiple cars under tow is pulling them out of the track. Not much I can do about that sans load them down. Does anyone load Marklin cars with ballast to help adhere them to the track?
    I rotated the poorly matched 220mm track segment and that solved the problem of cars bouncing through the joint there. I spent some time fingering the joints and trying to get smooth joints. i hit one with a Dremel fine grinding wheel and saw an improvement in how the cars rolled across it. But it is easy to disfigure the track rail with a Dremel tool! Interesting session.
     
  6. Doug A.

    Doug A. TrainBoard Supporter

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    I think you maybe answered your own question...put some weight in the longer cars.

    And yes, using a Dremel on track is a risky proposition....definitely requires the proper touch.
     
  7. husafreak

    husafreak TrainBoard Member

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    Any suggestions as to how much weight, or on which cars (only long ones for instance?) Thanks. I’ve actually never seen any advice online about adding weight. Even though the weight of various cars is often mentioned. Also is it OK to combine short two axle cars with longer or two bogey (4 axle) cars? I haven’t played with different combinations on purpose, but I haven’t restricted my selections so far.
     

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