Have a few LifeLike GP20's that were test run when I bought them back when they first came out but sat either in a display case or in their jewel case ever since. Other than they look cool, I'm asking myself why I ever bought them. That is a subject for another time I guess. Anyway, some still run but squeals like crazy and the others don't want to move even though they are getting power and the headlights come on. I am thinking it maybe has to do with the factory lube gumming them up. Am I on the right track there. If so, how hard is it to clean them up. Would like to probably sell them but probably not going to get much for them if I don't get them running again and without the squeals. Any suggestions (or reasonable offers for that matter) would be greatly appreciated.
I'd first remove the body shells, remove the trucks and apply current to the frame. If the motor runs or runs noisy, you'll have some solid clues on where to jump in. My guess is like yours, that the factory lube in the trucks has solidified.
99% it's the dried/thickened lube. Was this the LL GP-20s that were being blown out for $25 each or so a few years ago?
Remember? Remember what? I don't know just try and remember. Pretty sure these are the same Life Like GP20's. Although, I never got in on paying $25.00 each. What? What? What did he say? It's not just the gears that can bind up and squeak but the housing for the shaft. A little lite lube goes along way to restoring them back to working order. Just the noise of the motor purring and the Life Like-er's running around pulling your freights. You might also try some electronic tuner cleaner on the wheel contacts and other brass electrical tabs in the locomotive. Not to worry, you'll get them back up and running.
I think it's the same model but these were actually purchased brand new way back when LifeLike first came out with them. So the were not really discounted at that time.
I fourth the opinion that dried lube is the culprit. Way back it was Gold Metal Models that produced an etched parts sprue for GP 9s and 7 s. The same parts sprue allowed one also to retro a GP-18 or GP-20 back to a GP-9 with fuel tank sides, fans, and grills I did a few retro jobs since GP-9s were hard to come by back when.
I don't own any of these, but they were nice running units, right? I'm thinking that they were made when Life-Like made its jump to better quality, but I may be wrong.
The squealing could be dry motor bearings . a VERY small drop of oil on the motor shaft bearing should fix that .....Mike
Yes, they were really nice running units. Split frame design but you needed to hard wire in a decoder if you want DCC. Before I jumped to DCC, I ran these on DC and they were smooth and quiet. I got a them at $20-$25 each when they were being blown out and sold by Model Ship Expo (or something like that).
The first Life-Like locomotive in their line of improved quality, with smooth. quiet operation, was the F7. Unfortunately, the faithfulness to scale on them was sorely lacking. High pitched squealing in a loco is always one or more bearings in which the motor shaft or others, are turning the same speed. What happens is, instead of the shaft turning smoothly within the bearing, it travels around the inside of the bearing due to friction, creating vibration and thus, squealing. Doug
Agreed, there are some Atlas locomotives that suffer from the same issue. A very small drop of Labelle 102 on the motor shaft where it enters the motor most often solves this problem. Remember, you only want a very small drop of oil in this location, too much oil and it will find it's way into the motor making problems worse than they are now. Also place a small drop of oil where the motor shaft enters the bearings on the gear towers. For most of my locomotives that develop a squeal, this solves the problem.
I need to try this on one of my Atlas C-628s. It makes a squealing noise just like y'all are describing here and it makes me nuts.
Well, looking at these again last night, it would appear it is just gummed up gear boxes. Kind of sad for locos that have seen so little run time. I also really just don't want to spend the time and effort to fix them knowing I will barely even run them. On the fence about getting rid of them.
I would agree, the 20's were a leap into better quality. I held off buying a set of these, three in Santa Fe Blue and Pin Stripe livery. Waiting to hear what the other guys and gals were saying about them. Upon purchase they ran sweet and still do or at least they did, the last time I had them out on the layout. Up till then I was running the older LL GP 38's and B-mann's GP 40's. Ok, but never something you could compare to the GP 20's. B-mann's have been infamous for being oversized and poor runners. Life Like had the wiring harnesses that broke off easily. At the time it was all we could get so we dealt with it. I can assure you I liked the idea of the electrical wiring harnesses. I could fix them but it seemed they were always being bad ordered. I operate Analog DC and am not likely to ever convert over to DCC. To expensive for this old fart. Don't get me wrong I support the model railroads that have converted over to DCC. You won't have the operational problems we have with Analog DC and Cab A & B controls. A new set of problems perhaps. Either way you can enjoy the hobby. I found, I could run the LL GP 20's with some of the Atlas and Kato offerings. Lash them up and off we went. Nice!
Getting rid of them? Wait? Really!? Okay, I make like a good trash can... if that's what you had in mind? Or are you looking for an offer? Pictures? Here's a tip of the day: If it is lube in the trucks then take some very lite lube and I mean lite lube and pour a little at a time into the trucks. Take a handkerchief or paper towel and put it across a test track. Set one truck at a time on the cloth and run slowly. Apply power to the truck and allow the gunk to soften and ooze out. Don't stop until you've washed the trucks out completely. Oh and by the way your trucks will be thoroughly lubed when you are done. Unless I missed something here (always a disclaimer) your LL GP 20 will be back up and running. Now then you can sell it to me. That is if it's Santa Fe, Southern Pacific, Western Pacific, Union Pacific, Great Northern or something else.
