Rehabbing used locos and rolling stock?

Tom Crofton Mar 19, 2019

  1. Tom Crofton

    Tom Crofton TrainBoard Member

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    As I plan my new layout I am considering grabbing up a bunch of older stuff off used/auction sites and adding details/paint. I am planning my own proprietary line in the 1950's/60's. I'm also staying with DC and block control, so don't need DCC. As I look online there are new, basic f-7s for $60 in oddball paint that I would repaint anyway or as many as a dozen used engines for about the same price (in various levels of repair). I also see better detailed new engines for $120 that seem to have a few extra grab irons. I'd like to add to my two starter sets left over from my kids' layouts, using the track for staging as I add my hand-laid track, but adding to the rolling stock to get a much larger, better detailed layout. I have a F-7 from a Bachmann Canyon set that is fairly plain, and a newer Bachmann ALCO S4 that is quite detailed. I am hoping to get a F7B to make a pair or even acquire an ABBA consist. Are the older ones worth upgrading for looks or should I just get best buys on clearance new ones and paint them to my spec's. Even some of the new Bachmanns lack the details of the nicer DCC ready models from other manufacturers. So on a budget what's the best plan?
     
  2. jpwisc

    jpwisc TrainBoard Member

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    A tough decision indeed. I think you have to ask yourself what’s important to you. Every engine on my layout is detailed out, because I know what they look like in real life and I want to match that.

    With the older engines, so can add the details you like and paint them the way you want. The newer ones will cost a little more, but they are done. That’s time you could allocate to fixing rolling stock, or working on the layout.

    Either route has its advantages.
     
  3. Tom Crofton

    Tom Crofton TrainBoard Member

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    thanks, Karl
    I'm not from the RR, but do see the differences between the train sets and the rivet counters. Our old F7 has better power than the newer S4, but sounds rougher. I am going to use pulsed DC to get slow speeds, so I'm hoping older power will function at realistic slow speeds. I don't mind the work to fix old but don't want junk mechanically. I'm not in a hurry but want to get more clear on how to build up my layout. Buying new DCC ready at clearance prices ($60-90 for an A or B) may be the best, as long as I am repainting anyway.
     
  4. Akirasho

    Akirasho TrainBoard Member

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    Artistic license.

    Been digging through old stuff (I'm loath to throw anything away) and figure at the very least, older, less detailed locos and rolling stock could flesh out a scene (service facility).

    One of my original Bachman "train set" locos from 30+ years ago. Could be cut up simulating a diesel undergoing heavy repair.
    Train - Model-DSCN1945.jpg
    Tyco "train set" Alcos. Inexpensive way to add old Alcos to a scene.

    Train - Model-DSCN1947.jpg

    Train - Model-DSCN1949.jpg
     
  5. trainman-ho

    trainman-ho TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Tom

    That's how I got back into the hobby. Some call it being cheap.....I call it being frugal!!!

    Oh yes....I am not a rivet counter. If it looks and moves like a train....It must be a train.

    Good luck to you!!!

    Jim
     
  6. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Just a thought that if a used locomotive catches your eye, you might want to check eBay or manufacturer websites for the parts you might need to restore it. Some parts are no longer available and in N Scale at least, some new motors have climbed in price to over $25 which changes the stakes in taking a risk.
     
  7. traingeekboy

    traingeekboy TrainBoard Member

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    I like the smug feeling I get from making cheap crap into interesting models. I have done the purchasing frenzy style of modeling and now do the slow home made / semi home mode approach, I''ll take slow and proud over - oh my, the purchasing joy has worn off, must spend more money.

    I say go for it.

    [​IMG]
     
    gjslsffan likes this.
  8. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

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    I think it really depends. Some models have real potential and are good candidates for superdetailing, but I feel if the tooling itself is bad, there is no point in detailing an unrealistic model. There are some things that wire grab irons don’t cover up.
     
  9. Tom Crofton

    Tom Crofton TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for all the replies.
    I'm just getting familiar with the manufacturers and the price ranges. I suppose for locos, picking out the markings less popular and on sale with the new style motors and better tooling fit my goals of smooth running and redecorating. For rolling stock I'm ready to do a standard rebuild on used bulk purchases, with new wheels, couplers, and some detailing and weathering before putting on the layout. I'm planning a workbench track that leads through a tunnel as a portal to send rebuilt stock onto the layout. All the layout, control, and equipment planing this summer will make this a real joy to build next winter when the next polar vortex descends.
     
  10. traingeekboy

    traingeekboy TrainBoard Member

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    The best way to approach is it, as a test. As you wait to do a layout actually start building things and expect lots of accidents. The accidents and trouble spots are the things that improve your modeling skills.

    My model work is far from fine scale quality, but I have learned a lot of useful skills and problem solving tricks.
     
  11. Dennis461

    Dennis461 New Member

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    Be careful buying a F7B. I bought a Bachmann PLUS to go with my Athearn F7A, both union pacific.
    The paint scheme is different , and putting Kadees on the Bachmann was more work than I anticipated.

    As for painting your own for a home brew roadname, I found it to EMD F7 A-B.jpg be too much work and my painting and lettering skills were not up to the task.
    I mean, for freight cars you have to add all that tiny lettering, right?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2019
  12. Tom Crofton

    Tom Crofton TrainBoard Member

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    thanks,
    I'm a skilled spray guy. I find the prototypical lettering and weathering very interesting. I need to study what it all means and where the stuff goes. I have been learning the methods of applying decals with solvents, etc. Another great tangent of this hobby.

    Some of the tank cars of Bobby Pitts, for example, look like they are full scale pictures of the real thing. Not sure I will ever get to that level.

    My action steps are to build my layout next winter and then slowly add pieces as they are painted and weathered. I have two old starter sets and a few nicer items to bring up to higher quality before I acquire more. I occasionally look at used online items that get me excited but I need to wait. I'm spending time now reading threads, playing with the layout software, and building some of the main pieces (bridges, ferry) of the layout.
     
  13. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

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    Some (most) decal sheets come with placement diagrams. If you already have some decal sheets, the instructions might tell you where to place all those small data stencils.
     

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