After years of knowing its possible to get really good parts printing with FUD process, I’m finally really happy with Shapeways printing since you can now choose part orientation for printing in FUD. I can finally get quality parts that I can get decent smooth surfaces without much finishing work. A good cleaning with isopropyl alcohol in the ultrasonic cleaner for 10 minutes (then rinse with fresh cold water) and Dupli-color sandable “filler primer” (Dupli-color Gray Filler Primer 11 oz. Aerosol - FP101 ) with just some light sanding (300 grit or above, wet or dry) in a few spots and a second coat on some parts gets nice smooth surfaces while keeping the details crisp. It fills the bad stuff but keeps your details crisp and clean. But a lot of the better surface quality has to do with printing part orientation and how the parts are designed to take advantage of it. That’s why I split the carbody in half and the upper works in half along with the back being a separate part. I don’t care if the inside of the part gets gunked up with support material because you will never see it. The first image shows the exact orientation the parts are printed. You can see where all the support material will be (it’s the red stuff). So I tried to minimize the amount of support material that will effect surfaces you can see on the final assembly. Also, all the flat surfaces facing up print almost completely smooth with next to no step over marks (another reason to split up some parts). It also insures the most crisp detail for any details recessed or protruding from those top flat surfaces. I plan to make this for sale soon in my Shapeways store. Its about 50+ parts on the parts tree (some are redundant) as seen in the second image. But I have to make directions for it first along with suggested materials needed (thread I use and where to get it and so on). Just need to find the time, hopefully before the year is up. Eventually I’d like to do some etching for all the handrail details and what not. Again, just need to find the time…. The model has an adjustable hoist and whip line. So you can raise and lower the boom and whip line after the rigging is done. I also improved the buckeye trucks. She rolls pretty good. There are pockets in the carbody, boom and upper works that can be filled with tungsten putty. It gives the crane decent weight so it stays on the track a lot better. -Jon
Glad you like it everybody! Its been a good incentive to get going on making directions and getting it up for sale. I'll make a video on assembly and try to do it this weekend if I can escape from work for a bit. Lots of small parts (with lots of extras in case they get lost or broken or go flying across the room during the build) and a few tricks to help make it easier to build. I'll post it and hopefully get it up for sale at my shapeways store( https://www.shapeways.com/shops/micro american rail prototypes ) by sometime next week.
I'll be getting one or two of them. Outstanding work. Thank you for the tips, too. Where do you get tungsten putty? Is the primer for models or automotive? It sounds useful for all 3-D items. I am developing a small module with a lineside business dealing in Catepillar and Catepillar-related vehicles. I need a spot to put all the creations you have provided for us. I want a space to display the dozen or so I already own. Now we have rolling stock. Thanks. It looks like a real winner. Jim
Well I got the directions done and the model is posted in my shapeways store. https://www.shapeways.com/product/4...brownhoist-crane-in-z-scale?optionId=79860117 Sorry its not cheaper, parts tree size and print orientation setting do not help the price. But you get a lot of extra parts that can break easy or unintentionally go flying across the room with little effort. The default print orientation also insures the best print possible for parts (as described above). Some folks will have no problem assembling this model. Some folks might feel overwhelmed when they received the unassembled model and might have buyers remorse. For that reason, I strongly urge you view the entire build assembly video before buying so you know what to expect when it comes time to build it. One more consideration before buying, models can fail at any time. What does not help is that all my models for sale break at least one if not all of Shapeways design constraint rules for FUD. If it was not for "print it anyway" option (only available to the owner of model being printed), none of these models would pass or be allowed to print. But I use the option to prove the model out regardless of shapeways rules. That being said, I have only had one model fail after being sold several times over several years (CAT 980 Loader in z scale). So it can still get rejected no matter its previous printing success record. This model is no exception as it breaks every shapeways design constraint rule for FUD (thin walls, thin wires, thin support wires, etc.). I have printed it out successfully a bunch of times with 100% success rate. But as I stated above, that does not guarantee this model (or any model) will not fail during printing. Unfortunately if that does happen, the part will not be fixed and no longer be for sale. So keep in mind you could get stuck with a $51.40 shapeways credit. My apologies in advance if that happens (which I hope it does not). It just costs me to much money to reprint a new file for this model as "print it anyways" model to get it to pass for sale to the public. Thanks for all your kind words Jim. Video will give more detail on required and optional materials/tools. One thing you might have problem finding is the duplicolor filler primer in the Boston area. Local chain automotive stores might have it but call first as I have found some have stopped carrying it. Otherwise Rockauto.com will have it. Thanks and Merry Christmas everyone! -Jon PS, when it comes time to rigging, run the end of your thread thru crazy glue and let it dry. Then cut the thread on the dried crazy glue at a 45 degree angle. It makes a sharp point that's easier to thread thru the pulleys.
Hi, Jon I don't know much about the technical aspects of making these kits. I do know I can't do it. That being said, I've made 15 of your vehicles including a couple of Bobcats and have had no problems with any of them. I think one of them had a crack that was easily CA'd and painted away without a trace. I have used the super glue technique for quite awhile. I built a ship model years ago and learned it then. Thanks for passing it on to those who aren't aware of it. It may actually make that daunting task of rigging fun. Merry Christmas to you. Jim
Jon, I don't think you need apologize for the price of this fine looking kit. I think folks realize that quality costs and this price is not outrageous considering what you end up with. Z is somewhat inherently costly due to several factors, but those in the know realize that Z is very unique and has merit that other scales don't. Great job and thank you for offering yet another fine addition to Z scale modeling. What's next?
Jon work has always been outstanding! I have enjoyed his work since I started buying some of his work! This one really looks outstanding and having operating parts. Jon I have found that the UV glue as seen on TV works very good on these Smooth fine detailed material since it made from the same material as FUD, Smooth Fine Detailed Plastic it clear and is in the form of jell till UV light hits it. Also as Loren stated another fine addition to Z scale!
Thanks Jim and Walt for all your kind words! Hope you guys enjoy building the model. Jim, funny you mention shipbuilding. My Dad who was very into shipbuilding taught me that trick. It really helps with this one. Walt, I bought that UV glue a while ago and i forgot about it. It would be perfect for a lot of final assembly. Definitely will use it. Loren, thanks for all your kind words. As to what's next? Idler car. Waiting for it from shapeways. Hopefully it works. This one will fit over the MTL 60' flat car. Tried doing an entire car in FUD but warping is to much an issue on such a thin chassis. Even tried adding brass plate stock for ballast and rigidity. Still no good... If time permits over the next week or two, might have some other stuff ready to go too. -Jon
So here's the second version of this model Industrial Brownhoist crane. Can you tell the difference? The rear door and window are closer to the middle door. That was one of the main differences with model. So look closely at your road name wreck crane to make sure you get the right one. Its not a big deal. But enough to drive me nuts to offer both versions. UP used this version. NS had at least one crane with this rear door configuration and I think B&O did to. I'll upload this kit soon, hopefully next week. It uses the same instructions. so nothing new there. Here's a new one of the original version. I think I have enough of these for now... Just need to make an idler car for this one.
