I've read you need the 2175B I only have the 2175 will this be ok for cutting code 55 track? I cut a little this morning and it SEEMED ok, but I don't want to use it only to have problems down the road with it.
I have the B. It's specifically made for model railroad track. The 2175 might work, but it might get duller quicker than the 2175B.
How well does the 2175B work? I almost bought one at a recent train show, but held off when I recalled reading poor reviews. Then again, I'll bet that it produces a square cut in one side and a nipped cut on the other. If so, properly orienting the tool would make a big difference. Xuron also makes a 2175M Vertical Track Cutter designed to cut rails on track that is already in place. I'm guessing it might be the better choice for custom cutting Kato Unitrack sections?
I've used the 2175B on Atlas code 55 with good results. Besides the correct orientation for the square side, it is also critical that the cutters themselves be exactly vertical. (they now just collect dust since I've gone all Unitrack).
Not sure if my Xuron rail nipper is the same model # as yours. But it's always done a perfect cutting job on my code 83 rail.. It's important to make sure the flat side of the jaws is facing the rail you are keeping, as reverse (cupped) side mangles the rail. And, you cut top to bottom of rail, not side of rail.. M
I agree with this 100%. The way I do this is to place a square/rectangular object that can rest against the bottom of the track and the straight side of the Xuron. I use a small lead weight to do this. I also mark my cut locations with a piece of blue Painter's Tape.
HO scale track (code 100 & 83) should be cut top-to-bottom. N scale track (Code 80, 55 and 40) should be cut from the sides. You've been doing it right for your purposes, but the OP is using N scale track.
Mine's a "B" and it has always done an excellent job, regardless of orientation to the rail, although I try to cut side-to-side with N scale track, as recommended. It always leaves a pretty much flat cut with maybe a small protrusion in the center, easily removed with a couple of file swipes. It really can just be left there. I have used it to cut rail in place too and, although I'm always leery about breaking the jaws by cutting with the tips, it has never broken. The opposite side, in my experience, doesn't really mangle the rail. Rather, it just cuts it like a regular diagonal cutter would and and can be filed flat. Doug
I'd forgotten that I used to have a pair of rail nippers, but ruined them by cutting hard wire which puts divots in the jaws. I thought this was worth mentioning so others don't do as I did.
Yeah, if you are putting new strings into your piano, don't use your Xuron to cut them to length. Doug
Also, do not let them get anywhere near your regular tools or even your hobby tools, if you have family or friends who borrow stuff and assume anything that looks like that is a "wire cutter" and assume that all wire is the same, from solder to piano wire to 6 penny "wire" nails. That said, I think there is a Xuron cutter specifically for hardened music wire. They make dozens of types of cutting pliers for all sorts of stuff. One issue I have encountered is that some hobby dealers will sell a 2175 as a "track cutter" (that is how I ended up with the one I currently have). It will cut frack, but as noted above, it wears faster than a 2175B. At least in my experience. I think the jaw geometry may also be just a bit different- my earlier 2175B seemed to leave less burr on the track when I cut it, and so there was less cleanup on the joint. I am due for a new pair, and am going to try out the "vertical" cutters.
