As many of you know, I've been writing a book called The Kumata Primer. Been working on it for about 3 years now. The discovery of a new never-before-known locomotive slowed things down a bit in regard to the book. But I have continued to work on the book here and there. The review portion is finished. In moving to the next section- the tweaks and repairs section, I have encountered a problem. I need an un-repaired Hallmark/Kumata brass SD40-2. I have already had my hands on two of them, but I neglected to figure out one thing. In my book, I try to be as specific as possible to help people make their brass as good as it can be (and, contrary to their generally poor reputation, Kumata locos can often be made to perform outstandingly). Almost all Kumata locos use a headless screw to retain the trucks. Only three did not use this, with the later Baldwin Centipede being on of them. The very FIRST two Kumata brass locos did NOT use this screw. They are the SD40-2 and the FIRST run of the ATSF E1 (you can tell the first run by the motor being almost in the cab. If the motor is centered, it is a 2nd run). Instead, on these two locos only, they used a steel pin with crimps. This "knockout pin" is REALLY hard to deal with. I'd like to get my hands on one more SD40-2 (or E1 1st run, though the SD40-2 is harder to deal with because of the handrails). It needs to be a loco that has not been tinkered with-- especially, it has never had the knock-out pin removed. If you might be able to help me, please contact me. I'll pay the shipping. And even make your loco run better if you want (there are a lot of happy Kumata folks out there who have let me improve their loco).
Just tumbled on your post on hallmark's SD40-2's. maybe I can assist. What do you need to know? And also about the non metallic screws that hold the gear towers down. Drop me a line. Also just finished some hallmark's SD60's & 50's with the new micro train true scale couplers. Dave
Just saw your post. Thanks for the offer. Someone already had one and sent it to me. It had problems which I fixed and was able to confirm what I was wanting to know. What I did not make note of from my previous encounters, was which direction the pin was inserted from the factory. But I got it now. Also figured out how to get the truck out of the frame without removing the pin. Thanks for your offer though.
