Thanks for the info...Gee, I'm wondering if I should hold off on buying one in case Intermountain comes out with a modern UP version?
Right now, that is the most modern UP they are releasing. There are two other UP versions announced, one is a Snoot Nose model, and the other is marked 80s/90s on their page. Neither have ditch lights. http://www.intermountain-railway.com/n/nloco/nlocsd40-2.htm
I got one and the rear coupler is high like mentioned by rrjim1. How do we fix that? Also having problems with JMRI identifying the correct programming layout. The ones identified by Decoderpro ((choice of 2) seem better suited for steam rather than diesel. Unit does run on DCC with correct diesel sounds.
The first thing I did was to check if the body was installed correctly. The couple on my loco was sitting at a angle. I removed the coupler and filed the body coupler mount so the coupler would sit level, that fixed the couple! The only adjustments I have made so far was to increase CV3 & 4, and map in the Run8 and Coast functions. I own two and they really run great after about an hour break-in and cleaning, real happy with my locos. To get these sound locos to run more like the prototype you need to use some functions manually, like drive hold and the brake features.
For all intents and purposes, the decoder is a 6 function LokSound Select. In the selection of decoders, you should see a full list of all the different sound file choices, not just the generic ones. ESU does have the project file available for download (if you have a LokProgrammer).
If you are using JMRI to do programming, don't let it identify the decoder. Instead, open the Electronic Solutions Ulm folder, the LokSound Select subfolder, and then pick the EMD645E3 sound file. When you've added the engine to your roster and get to the first programming screen, just remember to READ all the CV's and save the file BEFORE changing anything. In fact, what I would do is a "read all" on every single page FIRST, then save the file (this is now the default file). Now dupicate that, and use the duplicate file with a new engine number to make changes. This way, if you mess something up, you have the default file to go back to. I'm sure that the JMRI developers will add the new decoder to the decoder definitions in due course, but for now, this should be a suitable workaround. The key is to make sure you READ the CV values FIRST - don't rely on the "default" values provided by JMRI, because some of them will be wrong for this particular implementation. John C.
Yeah - it often takes an hour to read all the CV's - there are literally hundreds of 'em . . . John C.
I've found that reading each sheet one at a time greatly speeds up the read process . Most will read in under a minute ,but a couple sheets will take a bit longer . The first sound loco I programmed I tried the read all sheets . Went away for 30 or 40 minutes and it was still reading when I came back !
Thanks for the advice. I followed your directions and the loco works great and the function labels are now correct for the unit, so I can use my cellphone and tablets as wireless throttles with correct function labels. Alcoliner
No one else will make a sound decoder for it; too complicated and expensive. A non-sound would be possible, but don't hold your breath. It would require an all-new design. Some small hard-wire decoders would fit if you don't mind doing you own lighting. John C.
And why not, Digitrax makes a very good DCC decoder. Someone that purchases a DC only version might want to install a DCC decoder sometime down the road.
BTW, my understanding is that the non-sound DCC version of this loco has an ESU LokPilot decoder, I assume with the same flat board design as the LokSound. The non-dcc versions have a light circuit board. It should be possible to wire a wired decoder like a TCS Z2, a Digitrax DZ126, or a Zimo MX621 to the analog light board, cutting the traces on the board as needed. Remember, though, that most of these tiny wired decoders have only two lighting outputs; the Zimo has 4. Nothing I know of that would fit has six, like the factory ESU decoders. If you wanted to do alternating ditch lights, a beacon, and regular front/rear headlights, you'd need five. I don't know why anyone would want a different decoder, though - both the LokSound and the LokPilot are excellent. John C.
I ordered mine without decoders. I don't know when I'll get around to putting decoders in them, if ever.