Designing Yards with Kato Unitrak

I'm a yard hog. I want as much of my rolling stock on the layout as possible.

Using Kato #6 turnouts:
Stub end yard
5 foot by 9 inch area
Ladder track - 4 tracks - 150 inches of yard
Compound ladder - 7 tracks -200 inches

Down sides
Esthetics – It is just plain ugly versus a nice clean ladder track yard
Ease: - Reaching the switch machines. In a ladder track - they are all in a line. In a compound ladder they are all over the place.
Manipulating the cars: In the compound ladder the distance from tie to tie is ½ inch in some places

Up side:
Storage - 25 percent more, (depending on how you do the numbers)

What am I missing?

 

A diagram?

 

Ok, a diagram tonight.


The overlay does not show very well the tie to tie distance.

[ July 12, 2005, 10:21 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]

 

Steve, it is possible to trim the Kato #6 switch down so you can do a proper ladder with them. Out of the box, a Kato #6 has a diverging route designed to fit in place of a 15 degree 28" radius curve section. That geometry is wrong for building a compact ladder, crossovers between parallel tracks, etc. - there is too much "curve" on that side of the switch. The Kato double crosover packs the points and the frogs of 4 number 6's and a diamond into that one unit. Trimming a #6 lets you make other track arrangements just as compact.

Richie (UP1950s) cut down some of his. I tried to explain it in general terms on another board a while back, and only succeeded in having a couple of people go ballistic because I could not cough up the exact measurements on demand. I'd better let Richie explain where he made the cuts. I plan to use cut down #6's on my new layout, and could us a refresh myself.

 

Long Train I am sure it is possible to trim the curve. I am equaly sure it:
"Aint gonna happen"

 

I've used number 4s, saves a lot of small, looks real purty. I know everyone says that cars will pick the points but with a file and a little eyeballing thats completely alleviated. I have just as many problems with #6s as I do with 4s but thats because the freight yard is 4s and the passenger yard is 6s.

 

That doesn't matter if you use the BCD (Binary Capacitor-Discharge) circuit to control your turnouts.
It's inexpensive, uses ordinary toggle switches, and can be arranged to do route control either from toggles or a rotary switch.

 

That doesn't matter if you use the BCD (Binary Capacitor-Discharge) circuit to control your turnouts.
It's inexpensive, uses ordinary toggle switches, and can be arranged to do route control either from toggles or a rotary switch. </font>[/QUOTE]Please, do tell me more or start a thread in the "Electronics and DCD" forum.
Thanks

 

I am planning a new addition to my layout using Kato Unitrack and have the same problem regarding track spacing using #6 turnouts.

So far, my answer has been to use #4 turnouts. I only have a few so far but only one caused problems with stock derailing. A quick file of the blades seems to have solved that one.

I could be being a bit slow but I don't understand why a compound ladder would allow seven tracks and a normal one only four.

I understand the four as that is all I cold fit in but I don't see why you can get seven with a compund as the track spacing is surely the same.

Please put me right if I have missed the obvious. It could help me with my planning.

Regards,
Dave

 

Its tighter because with 6s your tracks tend to be spaced out quite widely. With a compound each switch in the second row (ie not in the ladder itself) splits the difference and a tighter space between each track results.

cheers

 

With some carfeul adjustment of the points, the Unitrack #4 turnouts work without problems.

It takes all of two minutes to fix.

Stay cool and run steam...

 

Link to John Sing's photo tutorial on Kato #4 turnouts:
http://www.railimages.com/gallery/johnsing?page=1

So easy I can do it.

 

Krasny:- Thanks but I still don't see it. I will have to have a play tomorrow with my track and see if I can then see what appears to be the obvious.

If not, then I will stick with # 4's for my yard and use #6's everywhere else.

Regards,
Dave

 

David, I'll try to get a photo of the two arrangements.

Might be several days.

[ July 13, 2005, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]

 

For my switching yard on the JJJ&E I used a combination of Unitrak #6 and #4 turnouts.

This mix of the two seemed to work well for me.


Stay cool and run steam.....

 

If you are going to be standing at the bottom of the diagram, I would recommend the ladder be flipped top for bottom. Easier to see switches are set properly, that a switcher coming in has indeed coupled to its train, stuff like that. Try it both ways and see.

 

I tried to explain this to a non – railroad person by email. It didn’t make sense. Folks here have a better base to start with but I thought I would re – do it.



Has this discussion helped anyone at all?
Would anyone like to see a comparison made with the actual track?

 

Steve,

I understand the term compound ladder but I still don't see why it allows more tracks in a given space using #6 turnouts. For my sake, if no-one elses I would like to see the comparison with actual track.

This thread could be of much use to me as I am currently planning a similar size yard area.

Many thanks,
Dave

 

I _should_ be able to have those sometime on Friday night, (East Coast US).

I use #6 in my yard because I have several 85 foot freight cars and I will be pushing 4 foot trains into them. I could _probably_ get away with #4s, (which would give me even more yard space). I do use #4s for spurs and anywhere else on the GandG short line

// Note: My layout comprises of:
A fantasy subdivision of the GN / CP – Uses #6s exclusively
The Grey and Grandure which is a short line serving the Grey Valley – Uses #6s in the yard / interchange track and #4s for all other track including passing sidings and spurs.