Will a TCS EUN651 work in the new N scale ATLAS S2 Switcher ??? I am reading the Atlas S2 comes with a 6 pin board. I have a EUN651 from a FVM ES44AC that is now on THERR Deadline. If the EUN651 will work in the Atlas S2 switcher....I am ready to Order one TIA
That's the first I've heard that Atlas is using the 651. I hope others do the same, so easy to install! What's wrong with your FVM GEVO? My son's GEVO had some problems so I put in a Kato motor and it works fine now.
Hi Ryan...per digitrax...it is suppose to have a NEM651 socket http://www.digitrax.com/news/2015/01/27/digitrax-announces-decoder-recommendation-soon-be-/ My problem with the FVM Gevo is the wipers. They just wont go back in straight enough to fit cenetred in the slot between the frame and the sill. They either catch on the frame or the sill if the truck rocks up...pushing the wipers up in the slot....then they stay up there and the locomotive loses contact on that truck. PITA and I have finally given up trying to get em to work right...after a year
Cool, that's good to hear. I hope all future Atlas models will use that plug in decoder. So are you turning your GEVO into a dummy unit?
I hope they all use this easy plug in decoder too Took the trucks off and the decoder out and set the locomotive on cribbing on the deadline. It will sit there to remind me every time I see it why I wont buy another
George, comparing the dimensions of the Digitrax decoders, the TCS is basically the same size, so there should not be a problem using it.
Thnxs Rick... I'm just hoping the S2 is still available come payday My daughter is coming into town Sunday for a weeks visit...hope we dont have to use my 'Train Card' for any supplies...LOL
I used JMRI to add my new S-2 and the decoder is listed as NEM652. For whatever that is worth. Why change the factory decoder?
I plan to buy a 'DCC Ready' one...since I already have the decoder. Thats 30.00 I can spend on something else. I dont want/need sound so its a win/win for me
Well..... *%(*^^$)%($)^*^%^*(&^%P&^*$^ I got all excited. I ordered a new utility throttle and an Atlas S2 from Fifer. Checked the tracking and it arrived in PHX and should be on the way to Show Low !!! Went in to tell the wife. She said..... "Honey....Monday is a holiday...there is no mail delivery."
OK...got my S2 switcher today Trying to get the shell off. Read online to remove the 2 screws in front of the front truck...did that. The hood comes up ok at the front. Question: How the do you get the cab loose ???? I need to put a decoder in. Dont wanna break anything trying to get inside.... HELP....TIA
Yea....but...I have this real nice 6 pin decoder that came out of that POC FVM !!!! Saves me some $$$$$
Rocket...here you go...hope this helps Remove the 2 tiny (easy to lose) screws from the bottom in front of the front truck. Most locomotives have a small nub on the frame that fits in a small dimple on the inside of the shell. Not so on this S2. You will note it has a longer tab on the frame and a longer slot on the inside of the shell. Its a PITA to wiggle that cab off without fearing you are gonna break something !!! When I am ready to put the cab end back on...I am first going to take a jewelers file to that tab and knock it down to about half the height it is. That will make any further disassembly easier ;-) Looking at the locomotive from the top. You will notice a slot in all four corners of the board. These are channels that are necessary for the black wires to go down through the board so the shell fits on...the shell is a tight fit. The other thing you will notice is that the black wires are taped to the board. Now...if you have the time and patience of a saint...you can try and get the DC chip out from under the board and TRY to get the DCC chip back in there GOOD LUCK WITH THAT !! ~ OR ~ Take off the tape holding the black wires down. Gentle pop the black wires out of each slot in the board. Push the 2 tabs that are at the middle of the board that hold the board down to the frame to get the board loose from the frame !!! Gentle finesse the board forwards out from under the cab area. Lay the frame on its side and the decoder swap is a whole lot easier I cut the pins on the decoder to the same length as the stock chip. You will find its easier later to get that board back under the cab area if you do this You have a 50/50 shot at getting the DCC board in right side up. I left the board out at an angle after putting the decoder in...put it on the program track. 'No response from the locomotive'. Yup...The decoder was in the 6 pin socket the upside down. I flipped it over and back on the program track. JMRI found the decoder this time ** This is where I left off last night...going out to finish up now ** Program the decoder. I would suggest running the locomotive on the main with that board sitting out at an angle...just to make syre everything runs ok. NOW Gently put the board back under the cab area. Put the 2 alignment pegs at the front of the board in. Snap the board down over the retaining tabs. Put the 4 black wires back in the slots at the corners of the board. Tape the black wires down onto the board again. Run the locomotive on the main with the shell off. You want to make sure all is working like it should before you put the shell back on. When you do put the shell back on...dont forget to put those 2 tiny screws back in from underneath...they hold the front of the shell down onto the sill. ENJOY
Sure now you come out with this helpful tidbit! LOL I just put a chip in mine the other night and did exactly as you did and shown. Thanks! One note, you say you have a 50/50 chance of getting the chip installed correctly? Before installing my chip, I did notice that in the Digitrax instructions it said to take note of Pin #1 and the location. With reading glasses on and cleaned, I did find a very tiny "1" located on both the chip and the light board. But you have to look real close. But I still managed to get it mixed up and got it wrong.
