Got a Bachmann 2-10-2 locomotive that I want to strip the lettering from the tender. Tried 91% alcohol which I have used in the past with success but it didn't seem to phase the lettering. Prior to using alcohol I used Chameleon stripper but I haven't seen it around in a long while. I am aware of ELO and brake fluid being used to strip lettering also. Anyone have any recommendations? The bottle of alcohol I used was several years old. Does alcohol weaken with age?
I wear them down like this. Goes slow but you have a lot of control. Takes a while but leaves a nice smooth surface or new decals.
I have had some success using Micro Set flooding the area and then using a old stiff paint brush to remove lettering. And if the alcohol bottle is not completely sealed it will absorb moisture from the air and thus weaken down some.
I have a few of the Bachmann 2-10-2 locomotives and elected to letter them for Baltimore and Ohio. Instead of attempting to remove the existing lettering on the tender, I painted over the lettering with a flat acrylic hobby paint. Used two coats, then a day or so later, applied the desired decal lettering. I maintained the cab number because that is what I use as the dcc address for each. I am pleased with the results and understand painting over is essentially what was done when a locomotive ownership changed from one railroad to another. For me, it works.
I use comet cleaner and a wooden stick. I make a paste with comet and scrub the lettering with the stick.This have worked well for me,however it does leave a shiny spot behind.
I've used Microset as well to remove the lettering off of some N scale trailers. Here's the link to the way I did it. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152936814060041 I've not tried to remove any lettering off of Bachman's products before.
The clip appears to be removing a decal not a pad printed paint or ink. I got a fresh bottle of 91% alcohol and was able to remove the white lettering and number but the tender has a red stripe that was unaffected. I am thinking that possibly the white lettering and numbers were an ink with a base susceptible to alcohol but the other colors might not be. So I will probably have to resort to some other means.
I removed the pad printing off of several Athearn trailers using this method but using solvaset instead of alcohol. They were decorated for Nacionales de Mexico with a multi color logo with a bit of red in it. The red and dark green were a bit stubborn so I left on for longer and off they came. I also used a flat toothpick to rub off instead of a q tip after the 1st try. Some reds do seem to be industrial strength though. Also using it to take white numbers off of Atlas Trainman 90 ton hobbers. I've never tried 91% alcohol to take printing off since I usually take more than the printing off and have to then strip and repaint the whole item.
The Model Railroader guys use 600 grit sandpaper on a popsicle stick and wet the area to reduce the friction on the paint. They did it to an On30 model from Spectrum and it worked pretty well. They didn't have to touch up the paint but they said it might be necessary to if the sandpaper takes some off. I am going to try this method on a car first and then my UP 2-8-8-2 from Walthers.
I removed the ASTF lettering from 2 Walther 2-8-8-2s with the commit cleaner method. I also remove the Norfolk and western lettering from the side of the Bachmann 4-8-4 J tender with this method with barely any damage to the red strip underneath. I then added Milwauke road to the red strip. yea I know Milwaukee J,but its my railroad
No, isopropyl alcohol is isopropyl alcohol without regard to its age. Thus it will not become weaker with age. I am a chemist by training.
Someone told me that what the consumer buys is an aqueous solution of isopropyl alcohol and water, say 91% alcohol to water. If not sealed properly, the alcohol is more volatile and evaporates leaving a higher water content. I try to get the 99% which has very little water in it.
It is hygroscopic, so it draws water from the air, too. The equilibrium amount is 72 % isopropanol. I find Walthers Solvaset useful for removing lettering...
Welllllll...just goes to show that ya cant believe everything ya read on the internet...not even from the experts on the subject...See link below http://www.rubbingalcohol.org/does-rubbing-alcohol-expire/
The isopropyl alcohol may be come diluted with water = moisture from the air; the alcohol itself does NOT become weaker. Matter of wording. Solutions become less effective as a solvent when more water is present.
I used 91% alcohol on everything, Soaked the whole tender for 2 weeks, paint, decals all gone. But I like to start from scratch.
Try this: Pretest on an inconspicuous area Apply Goo Gone to area Wait 1-3 minutes Wipe with a clean, white cloth Reapply as needed Wipe off and clean area with soap and water (see note below) It actually WORKED AND LOOKS GREAT (no destroyed or damaged plastic)!!! I used a small piece of a toilet tissue to contain the liquid to the lettering area which I fluided with a small dropper and soaked it for 5 minutes. I use "Dawn" dish detergent to clean all my plastic engines and cars. I leaves a nice clean (new) looking finish.
