Interesting to see what the body detail looks like with the paint removed. Pity Bachmann does not make an undecorated version.
No, not repainting. Wash to clean, as I do with almost all loco's, for detail painting and adding details. Also want it clean for Dullcote. Has anyone looked CLOSELY at headlight fixtures? My NYC unit with twin beams looks like heat damage to both????? Still haven't lost wobble. Will add weight later tonight to see if that helps. Joe D
Thanks for the 'heads'. I tried to look on the Kato website for it, but could not find it. The crossover may actually be a better candidate for cutting up. Hmmmmmmmmmm.....
That does look like some sort of heat damage. Hard to imagine the scenario that caused that. On a positive note, those numberboards sure do look good!
And I stil can't solve the wobble issue, even after adding weight. To be fair, I can't see the headlight issue when on layout. But when you pay good $ for a product, you don't expect a scratch/dent one sold to you. Bmann says they have no parts for these locos yet, but to e-mail/snail mail receipt, parts diagram with whats needed highlighted, and they'll take care of it. But the friggin' things are glued in. Joe D
As this is not a split frame loco, has anyone figured how to remove the trucks? I know I will have to unsolder/re-solder the wires to trucks. Want to roll trucks by themselves, to see if wobble is there. Driveline from motor to trucks looks very smooth. Joe D
The question becomes if you could 'saw off the top of the nose' to use the chassis for an SW1 by cutting the nose down like I do the Kato NW2; those screws look like they hold the entire frame together, the answer being 'no'. I thought that held the board on, but it looks like the board is held on by the screw amidships. The two screws on the front top of the nose hold something down...? I'm assuming the entire frame or something. If they 'just' hold the board down, that's different. I see that numberboard thing differently; it looks to me like either a tool mark or fingernails from inserting the headlight into the body casting, before paint. I doubt that's in the mold itself. Am I reading this right that it's NOT a split frame and there are actually WIRES to the trucks?
Sounds to me like Bmann may have hired some people that were left over from Life Like after Walthers took them over. I have a LL GP 38-2 undec that the body and ALL the windows and handrails were glued on. That must be the ONLY locomotive I have heard of that is glued together with it being an undec unit. Ryan
Ryan, I did an undec LL GP-28-2 into D&H. I don't remember the handrails being glued in, but I did order a set, and still have them. Think I read on the Atlas Forum, that you could freeze the shell, then pop pieces apart. Also read soak in hot water, from tap, not boiling! Why glue is used is beyond me. Joe D
You need to get out more as they say. Gluing on everthing that isn't part of the shell is sadly becoming par for the course for most N scale manufacturers with the exception of Kato.
Did some detailing on my NW today. Closest road # to Bmann NYC unit was 1 # higher, See pic at FF site, http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/nyc/nyc8770blr.jpg I added grabs on left, replaced the horn, as original looked a bit crappy, added Sinclair antenna. Though, I see now with close photo, it's not set flush with cab roof. Want to add piping over side air tanks, however crude I might do, also. Here's what it is now, [/URL] Sorry for crappy photo. Didn't feel like dragging out my usual photo rig. Joe D
So I got to ask if anyone has tried this yet but will a Kato NW2 shell fir on the Bachmann NW2 frame??? Does the screws holding the decoder board in place cause problems with the shell seating correctly??? Inquiring mind would really like to know??
I kind of just checked, as I had shell off Bmann loco. Popped shell off Kato, but discovered that I wired SMD LED to cab. Did not feel like unsoldering. But Bmann frame extends under side sills, Kato does not. I fear Kato shell would not sit low enough. Maybe see pix that will explain better at N scale encyclopedia, by Spookshow (Mark). Joe D
Just installed MT Z905's on the pup. Just cut off the mounting post absolutely flush, use the Bmann coupler screw to tap hole a bit, then use screws that come with 905's. Just be careful not to over tighten, or run screw through top. But what's with the droop of Z905's within their own coupler box???? Pix tomorrow. But loco is walking around layout with 10 mainly 50' boxcars very nicely. Joe D
