That would work but that's cheating! Although, you know carpet tape would also work as it's a lot thinner. Thanks! Thanks John! I will look in this, I've heard of Jet brand, but not the Slow Jet. Great advice, thanks again! Well since I am a woodworker by trade, have a few gallons of Titebond laying around the shop! My first thoughts would be that it wouldn't bond with the styrene, but will give it a shot. Call me lazy, but I would very much like to find something that bonds quickly without having to wait for it to dry, but still gives me a few seconds to position it n place. Thanks for your suggestion as well.
It's several larger surfaces that needs covering, here's a pic of what I'm attempting to cover: To give you and idea of size, it's overall 20" wide x 6" deep and 3.5" tall, the head house is 5.5" tall. I'm using .060" thick sheet stock for this, so I think any kind of typical plastic cement might leave sinkholes, distortion or melt the plastic. But appreciate the advise.
Okay I could not just resist this thought running through my old demented mind since you are a woodworker. How bout a tiny hammer and very tiny nails.
LOL!!! OK, I'll give you that one John. But I do that all day long at work, why would I want to do that kind of stuff when I get home at night???
You can use a spray adhesive available at a lumber yard. For streets, I will pick up he cheapest "For Rent" or "For Sale" signs and spray the adhesive on the printed side and this will hold them firmly to a sheet of plywood and then spray paint a concrete color on the blank side after scribing the seams into the blank side. If Sidewalks are needed, a piece of sheet styrene can be painted and glued using the same spray adhesive. Check the label on the adhesive for the materials that it can be used on.
I've seen where people use this to lay track, instead of any nailing system. It works for Dave Frary, having watched more than one video he's done with it. If it can hold ME flex in place, surely it can hold styrene.
Well all of my parts have arrived, time to plod forward with this. The other night I grabbed some Walthers Goo and took a small scrap of styrene and applied a small drop of Goo, removed the styrene and waited for it to tack up. When it was ready I stuck them together and Wow, it took a putty knife to remove the scrap of styrene! It also gave me a few seconds to position it. Today I had to run to ACE hardware and get some screws, so checked to see if they had any Welder Glue or the like and found some ACE brand Adhesive. Said it bonds anything and sounded like you could use it as I did with the Goo. I'm bettin this is nothing more than Goo repackaged other than it's clear. A tube of 2ozs for a little over $2. I'm gonna give this a try as well. Then I'm gonna try some of the other suggestions that you all gave. Thanks for the help and info!
Thanks Lou, the only thing I have against any form of Contact Adhesive is you normally do not have but one shot to get it right, and very little chance of positioning.
Allen, here is another Titebond brand suggestion for you. I have been using their "green" construction adhesive for track-laying and it works like a champ: It is water-based, so it's plastic-compatible; it has the color and consistency of room-temp peanut butter, so spread it thin with a spatula; it has a high initial tack so you can position your pieces right away, but you still have 15-20 minutes to make adjustments if you need to; and it sticks like crazy! The bond will be permanent. Looking forward to your results!
Interesting Gary! It sounds like what I've been looking for; Plastic compatible, strong initial tack, a decent positioning time and permanent. Can you tell me where you found it? I'm thinking one of the big box stores? I bet it's was less than or close to $5 a tube? Thanks!
Allen,I use water based contact cement a lot..It's not necessary to actually USE it as contact cement.I just brush it on,and slap it together.Contact cement is intended for surfaces like Formica countertops where a regular water based adhesive would never dry because the water can't evaporate easily..It will work as good as contact cement on a little project like this,but will work like Elmers until it dries..
Allen, I found the adhesive at our local lumber yard, but I'm pretty sure that Home Depot and such would have it too. And yes, ~$5 a tube is probably about right ("higher in Canada"). I've used water-based contact cement as well, and I tend to agree that it would probably work for this too. The brand I have (Lepages) says to let it dry for 30-40 min before joining, but if you join the pieces before it's dry, you would have some working time. The brand I have is pretty thin, so you'd have to keep the surfaces horizontal for a while before you join them. Not sure if other brands are like that. -Gary
Funny thing happened to me while surfing the forums,,I found a thread that was useful..LMAOOOOOO. Honestly,, I was thinking about making a LARGE structure,,, what a timely read. I keep this linky in my favorites,,, pretty cool!! http://mvns.railfan.net/autoplant.htm He has some pretty good hints. Take it easy,,Wyatt
Wow! thanks Wyatt. Very similar to what I'm trying to accomplish, but on a much smaller scale. Thanks for the link.
