Hey, do any of you S-4 owners have a decoder reader? I'd like to know the factory settings for CV's 2, 5 and 6 but my JMRI software has suddenly decided to stop working. Thanks, -Mark
I couldn't tell from the parts diagram if the little hollowed-out discs were supposed to function as flywheels or not, but based on the fact that they have little or no affect, I assumed not. What do you think? Flywheels? -Mark P.S. I'm still writing my review, so don't nobody go reading it yet!
Joe D is this what you remember? One product is called "Plas-Stick, Plastics Adhesion Promoter by Dupont" this is from a thread on the "old Atlas forum", http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=63902. It says it's for flexible plastic (like a bumper cover, etc.), Acetal is hard, but flexible, I guess it works. I haven't tried it. I have some Dupont 329 S adhesion promoter from my old days of painting interior plastic trim on autos. In the old days if you needed a new plastic trim piece it came "PAR" (paint as required). You might order a gray panel and they would send RED, you had to use the interior paint code and match it. The 329S was made for polypropylene plastic, but seemed to work on any "hard" plastic. Since I haven't done any painting since getting back into the hobby I haven't tried it yet. The 329 S came in a metal bottle (nasty stuff) and was available at a commerial auto paint store. Regards Charley.
I am a little concerned with the Bmann statement that this loco operates best on 11.25 inch radius or better. All of my smaller locos from the S-2, the various SWs and the 44 and 70 tonners will operate on 9 inch radius or less without a hint of derailing. So I would be interested in knowing what the minimum radius this little loco can be snaked through without putting wheels on the ties.
For stickiness to Delrin, the Pactra brand of R/C paints has been effective for me... except that they were also on the hit list for discontinuing by Testors/RPM. The specific item I have is Pactra Racing Finish, 'Daytona Yellow', Catalog Number RC57. Fortunately, one bottle can be a lifetime supply-- as long as it doesn't dry up.
I guess I answered my own question. Under features, Bachmann lists "Dual, precision-balanced brass flywheels". So, I guess (in their opinion at least) it has flywheels. Perhaps they contribute to the model's smooth running, but given the way it abruptly stops when dropping down from full throttle, the overall affect is pretty difficult to gauge. -Mark
If they actually stated "operates best", perhaps it could work on less, but need to be very carefully nursed around so as to not derail. The gear train design may be limiting truck swing.
Well, despite doing this mainly for fun, I do try to take it seriously. So yeah, there's a little pressure. In fairness to the manufacturers, I hate to make mistakes that would incorrectly dissuade people from making a purchase. BTW, I've finished my writeup (pending any corrections) - http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bachs4.html -Mark
Thanks. With an 11 turning radius it wouldn't get added to my collection but operating with no issues on 9 and 3/4th make it a buy candidate. Probably by next weekend I will acquire one and submit it to my critter test track section that has 9 inch radius turnouts and 8 inch curvature to see if it will be a candidate for the branch line.
I ordered mine in hopes that I could use the mechanism to power my SW1000 bash. Unfortunately, the frame in it's present state would not be suitable. I am pondering disassembling the mechanism (though I hate to risk screwing up such a smooth runner) to see if I could mold the frame. It looks feasible, and if it could be done I could case a resin frame that I could alter with the SW tanks relocate the cab sides. Then another mold could be made from which an alloy casting could be produced. Would anyone be interested if it could be done?
And a well deserved "A" it is. Yes, there are a couple of things to nit-pick, but then again show me a lokie that someone cannot find fault with. The only thing I do not like is the combined body and sill. It will make it a bear to paint (at least for amateurs like me)
Thanks Mark for the report. The information gives me what I need to make a decision as to whether to purchase. Sounds like my best bet for double heading on the grades will be either a 2nd S-4 or maybe to combine with one of my 70 tonners which have decent slow speed performance. Just finishing up going through a bunch of locos servicing and lubing I have noticed that a lot of the newer small locos have a much lower top end speed and somewhat good if not great low end speeds.
I'm curious if anyone (Mark?) Has a photo of the bottom of one of these little jewels specifically showing the coupler mounting points? Has anyone come up with a plan for replacing the boxing gloves and mounting decent (read Micro-Trains) couplers?