Can someone who has one make some measurements? 1) Driver diameter - 2) Wheelbase a) Between Driver 1 and 2 - b) Between Driver 2 and 3 - 3) Pilot wheel diameter - Pics make it look like it's farther between 1 & 2 than between 2 & 3. John H. Reinhardt
Excluding the flanges, the driver diameter is 9 mm and the pilot wheel diameter is 5 mm. 14 mm between the #1 and #2 drivers, 12 mm between #2 and #3. -Mark
I see The Favorite Spot in Texas, now has the 2-6-0's showing on their website and in their eBay store as well. The eBay store has them listed with "But-it-Now" pricing, and also in auctions starting at just $.01, with Parcel Post shipping at $5.55! They don't list anything on the web or ebay that isn't on-hand and ready to ship. Bill in FtL
With any luck it's the traction tires that are out-of-round. If that's the case I bet you could find surgical tubing with a similar diameter and replace 'em..... Should be far more uniform. Now I want one of these!! $107 on eBay, is it worth that?
I've been reading this thread with great interest (and a little envy), while convincing my wallet that it's fortunate B-Mann didn't release one for the B&M. Now I see that they did, doggonit. What to do, What to do? No, No, No, I don't "need" another B&M Teakettle...do I?
I have been able to true up traction tires by placing the locomotive up side down in a cradle and applying power to the tender with clip leads. As the drivers with the tiers are spinning, you can see if there is a lump in the tire. Sometimes you can insert a dental probe under the tire and stretch it away from the lump to flatten it. If I can not do that, I carefully scrape the traction tire with the edge of a razor blade while the wheel is spinning until the lump is scraped off.
reinhardtjh---I believe that the drivers on this loco were supposed to be uneven, i.e., "farther between 1 & 2 than between 2 & 3," because traction was not as good with even spacing. Don't know the explanation, but that's what I heard, and believe to be true. Maybe some member knows about this.
Could someone please post a picture of the bottom of the chassis? I am trying to see where the screws are located in relationship to various details... I am seriously considering a kitbashing project that would use the 2-6-0 boiler and cab on the Bachmann Ten Wheeler to create a more modern steamer.
Finally was able to get mine from temp. mail address, today. Very sweet runner so far. Don't see any up/down wobble as Mark did. Want to replace headlight led and put Z905's on both ends. Has anyone put Z905's on, and can relate their experience? Thanks, Joe D
I've just briefly looked over my 2-6-0, and the front and tender looks a bit similar to the 4-6-0 that I installed 905's on. Basically you just ream out the coupler pocket in front: And then slide the 905 into the space: If I remember, I just secured with some CA dabbed around away from the moving parts. The tender was even easier: pop out the stock coupler and slide the 905 in. Might have had to Dremel away a little of the metal frame to get it high enough up. But looks much better than the huge "Hulk" ham-fists of the stock couplers: 905 on the Ten Wheeler, N-scale 1015 on flatcar for comparison. It's been pulling many boxcars on our Free-moN layout for awhile with no problems.
I got the B&M loco. Did not find a proto pic of 1300 series loco, but believe this should have a center mounted headlight? Wonder if Model Power Mogul or American smokebox front would fit? Have to dig my MP locos out from a packed box under stairs. Gonna' kill my back. Joe D
need info sorry, i get confused between DCC ready and DCC equipped does a DCC equipped loco run only with DCC or will it still operate on DC layout? thanks for any reply respectfully Gary L Lake Dillensnyder ------- DC until my budget would allow DCC which won't be anytime soon! ;-(
The recent Bachmann decoders can run on both DC and DCC. "DCC Equipped" means that there's a decoder already installed. "DCC Ready" means a bunch of things, depending on who's making the claim. Sometimes it means that there's a pin harness ready to accept a decoder. Sometimes it means that you can pop out the provided lightboard and drop in a decoder. Sometimes it means only that the motor is isolated from the frame so you can solder a decoder in. You have to read the fine print after the "DCC Ready" to see what it means. It's always good to check on Spookshow's Loco Encyclopedia on specific locos. Side note: the Bachmann decoders work, but they're not the greatest for slow speeds. If you can replace them with another, like the DZ125 (that's what I did with my Bmann 4-6-0), then performance is improved a lot. But then you can't run them on DC.
Mr. MC Fujiwara... thank you so much for your timely and very helpful--with much information for which i am grateful--reply. i follow your links here in the forum and am always impressed and thankful for your creativity and giftedness in the MR hobby. thanks again! respectfully Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
