Actually, it's Scotch-Irish, of the little known but well-kilted highland McFujiwara clan. We count Groundskeeper Willie as one of our own. ("Now, the kilt was only for day-to-day wear. In battle, we donned a full-length ball gown covered in sequins. The idea was to blind your opponent with luxury.") Hetek: Hank's got some liquid-courage coffee all ready for you. Looking forward to decals on de boxcab!
I'm still waiting for my mechanisim to arrive. Each day when I get home I head straight for the mailbox. I've got the shop all cleaned up and the shop crew is ready to go.
Well here she is. Arrived last week. I've got a good idea of what I want to do with the body, but not so sure about the truck side frame, I'm thinking of building a new chasis with brass side frames and a plastic center section. I figure that would take more time, but be more durable than gluing styrene onto a shaved down derlin. The traction tire has to go, it'l need four wheel pickup. This is going to be used by the Doc and Preacher to get out the camps to save bodys and souls. It needs to be dependable. Hopefully there won't be many urgent calls where they have to ride out together. I'll shoot some photos as I go along.
I've used the sideframes that came with TomyTec TM series chassis with no problems. They glue to the copper strips that hold the axles in and take power to the motor. The factory sideframe is fine for many small industrial locomotives. They are only attached at the center top. A little application of a hobby saw does the trick to remove them. I've used either suoer glue or white glue to attach to Tomix ones They are sold as extra parts if you don't want to buy a whole chassis. There are three designs; a Brill, an Alco and another traction design.
Is that a plow on the front? I'd beinterested and seeing more photos of that little critter. I got back into N scale as an adult over thirty five years ago. I never thought I would see the day when N scalers could build little critters like the larger scale guys could.
Free Lance Four Wheeler For around thirty years I've been wanting to try my hand at a small freelanced "woods built" locomotive with four spoked wheels, inside frame and chain drive. The current issue of Narrow Gauge Downunder has an article on how to build a large scale chain driven 4-2-0 converted from a steam lorry. This got me thinking again about finally building that four wheeler. Using some ideas from NGD I believe I can pull off everything but the chain drive. I'm going to used siderods in place of chain. I've had a Unimat for sometime but haven't used it so I want to do a little machining to get me familiar with it, nothing to complicated. Here is the donnor power truck Nice small mechanism, looks like it even has directional lighting. It comes with solid wheels but I want spoked. I had some Marklin Z scale wheels laying around so I'm going to use them. I hope they don't fall into N scale frogs on hand laid switches. Here are the axles after machinng the wheels off the stub axles and pressing on Marklin wheels. The factory wheels and stub axles were one piece. Here is the disassembled mechanisim along with a pair of link and pin coupler pockets still conected with flash I was starting to have second thoughts about switching to inside bearings to facilitate the siderods, then the new issue of NGSLG came this afternoon. There is an article on building an On30 inspection car with inside bearings, It looks straight forward enough so I'm going to try the same method in N scale. Thanks For looking. Comments and suggestions are encouraged.
Yes that is a plow. That little cab was built to take care of the snow on the traction layout. It does get power through the homemade pole on it's roof. The body is a Japanese caboose that came from TomyTec in a set with a steeplecab loco. and 4-wheel open wagons. I used the ProHobby chassis with TomyTec sideframes. The steps are Plastruct. The blade and it's mounting are brass sheet and stock. The bottom edge of the blade was folded over and crimped with needle-nose pliers. The interior is packed with weight. . . . . .
Thanks for posting more pictures. That thing is really neat. The bottom blade of the plow looks like it is bolted on. Your grass fields look good to. When you run from a live overhead do you use both rails for the other pole (+-)?
The layout power is on a switch that selects power from the rail or overhead. That way I can run unmodified equipment or lighted trailers. I've left the cars to be powered by two rail but can get power from overhead. It is also so that I can use the pole to clean the wire, using the track for power. It's just like the rails it oxidizes too. But is way more difficult to clean except by contact. If I've ignored the layout for a while the thing will spark like the real thing did. Boy. can you smell the ozone.
I need to get back into this. Where last I left off, I had the chassis pretty much modified the way I wanted it, and a decoder installed. What I hadn't done, yet, was put in the lights as I was waiting for fiber-optic line.
Yeah! Slow & steady wins you a new boxcab. Put the "ox" back in boxcab & getterdone! Looking forward to seeing another boxcab join the bunch!
Well, I have the fiber-optic line, now, so my excuse, besides the usual lack of enough time, energy, and money is ______________.
Adam, you're not the only one still working on his boxcab. Old 7750 now has cooling coils on the air tanks, footboards, couplers, and BLMA cut levers. I hard-wired a decoder I found in the parts drawer and it runs nice and smooth. I'm planning to use filed-down 3mm LEDs for the headlights. They scale out to about 19 inches...kinda big, but not outrageous.
